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Thread: DIY: Installing a Daox cruise control kit & enabling in ETACs

  1. #1
    Administrator Daox's Avatar
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    DIY: Installing a Daox cruise control kit & enabling in ETACs

    So, you want to add cruise control to your Mirage? No problem! Its actually not that hard to do. This thread will show you exactly what you need to do to make that happen.

    Here is what you will need:

    After you get your bits ordered, you can get started installing things. Lets start with the pedal switches.

    Start by putting you driver's seat all the way back and sticking your head down by the pedals. For whatever reason (I think sound deadening mainly as there is some material on the panel back side), Mitsubishi decided we needed this plate covering up everything in an area you would never ever look. Take a philips screwdriver and unscrew the three plastic fasteners. After the threaded part is unscrewed about 1/2", you can yank them out and the panel will come out.

    Now, this is what you'll see when you look at your pedal and the switches. My car is a manual, so the clutch pedal is on the left, and the brake pedal is on the right. You can see there is an empty hole where we will be installing the clutch switch, and the brake switch we will actually be replacing with a different one.

    For those interested, this is the difference between the two brake switches. The new one has the blue end. There are 2 additional contacts in the new switch we will be installing. I find it hard to believe Mitsu saved much money here... but whatever.

    So, lets replace that brake switch. Before yanking it out, lets take a look at how the switch sets though so you can see how to install the new switch. Observe the clearance between the pedal and the switch (white little bit in the pic). You'll want to install the new switch with generally the same clearance.

    Now, disconnect the electrical connector. Then, give the brake switch a quarter turn counter clockwise. It will pop right out. Grab your new switch, and do the exact opposite. Make sure its in roughly the same position to the pedal as the other switch, or get it to look similar to this picture. Make sure to plug the connector back in too.

    If you have a CVT / automatic, you are now done! Congrats, you are awesome! You can put that bottom panel back on... or not. I don't personally see much need, but its your car so do what you want.

    If you have a manual trans, congrats cause your car is cooler! But, you have more work to do yet.

    You may have noticed an extra connector taped up above the brake switch connector.

    You need to cut the tape, or remove the tape to get that connector free. That is going to plug into your clutch switch.

    Now for the fun part, grab the clutch switch and your M10 nut. Push in the clutch pedal enough to give you clearance, and put the clutch switch in the hole, and spin the nut on. The switch does have a little plastic pin/nub that sticks out to hold it in place as you tighten the nut. No need to He-man it on, but get it snug. I did snap that pin off of mine due to having a messed up nut that wouldn't thread on fully. I superglued it back on. A new nut did the trick and spun on perfectly.

    Alright, last step again. Plug the wire harness connector into the switch. Congrats manual trans guys, you are now done too!

    Next up, lets tackle adding the Daox cruise control kit.

    First, we need to remove the top steering wheel cover. To do this, pry up on each side. Its nice to do this with plastic tools vs metal so it doesn't gouge the cover as easily. I just got a set like this, so I put them to good use. The service manual shows where to pull the covers apart.

    Next, remove the screw from the lower cover. I believe its a philips head screw.

    Now, the lower cover is still held on the steering column by a plastic clip right where you just removed the bolt. Its pretty secure. You'll want to pry it apart a little bit before yanking it off.

    You should be able to reach your fingers around the back of the gauge cluster bezel and pop out the blanking plate.

    Alternative, if you are using the rectangular version, you should also be able to pop out a blanking plate. If not, remove the panel and pop it out.

    Fish the cruise control kit wire around near the steering column, and pop the cruise kit into the hole.

    Now, we get to wire it up. Take a look under the steering column and you will see the harness going to the clock spring. There are three electrical connectors close to each other.

    You will need to unplug the center one.

    When you look at the wires, you want to connect the cruise panel wiring to the yellow and brown wires. IT DOES NOT MATTER HOW IT GETS PLUGGED IN. Its designed to work either way. I just know I am going to get questions on this, so capslock.

    With it all plugged in, I recommend securing it somehow. It does fit snugly in the connector, but there are no clips to hold it in place. I used some small zip ties to secure things so that it won't accidentally come unplugged.

    Now, you can reinstall the lower steering column cover, and then clip on the upper steering column cover to button things back up. Congrats! You are now done with the cruise switch kit install!

    Last step guys! Lets now tackle the ETACs (Electronic Time & Alarm Control System) programming. Grab your laptop, mini VCI cable, and lets get things setup.

    First, make sure you've downloaded the ETACs decoder software, and the x-horse drivers. Install them both.

    Plug the mini VCI cable into the car. Then, plug the mini VCI cable into the laptop. I didn't always follow these exact steps in this order, but it is the recommended process according to the ETACS Decoder manual. Turn the ignition on. Make sure you have an internet connection as you need this for the software to work.

    Now, open your device manager in windows. Expand the Ports (COM & LPT) section. You will find a USB Serial Port listed there. It also will say (COM X). The X being the number of the COM port that we need to set in the ETACS Decoder software. Remember this number.

    Now, fire up the ETACS Decoder software. First things first, its going to ask you to login. I didn't get pictures, but you will click register. It then pops up a 'go read the forum FAQs' message. Click OK after the timer expires, then use the username and password text boxes to create a new user for yourself and click OK. It will then log you in to something similar to the screen below.

    Click on the Options tab on top. You will see the screen below except it will be missing a bunch of settings.

    - You will need to set the ELM COM-port settings to the port number you found in the device manager.
    - You will need to set the CAN settings to XHorse - MVCI for Etacs Decoder. If you don't have this option, you haven't installed the XHorse drivers that I mentioned at the beginning of this post.
    - You can leave the Connect first setting on Auto, or change it to J2534.
    - You will need to check the Engine checkbox.

    Congrats, you have already done all of the hard work and are now ready to connect to the car's computer! Click on the OFF / On slider button in the upper left corner of the window. If you click on the LOG tab, you will see the program checking drivers and connecting to the ECU. If you have any problems with this process the LOG tab is your friend and will help you troubleshoot.

    Click on the Engine tab on top. You'll see a list of settings. Scroll to the very bottom and you will see two settings:
    CRUISE CONTROL - set this to present in the New Value column.
    CRUISE CONTROL OPTION - set this to ACCEPT in the New Value column.

    Now, click on the WRITE to ECU button on the upper left side. It will write to the ECU. Then you will get a message box telling you to key the car off and back on. Follow the instructions. Once the car is powered back up, you are done! The red text will now be white. Your cruise control is now fully enabled!

    PHew, that seems like a lot. I know there are a ton of pictures, but its really just to clarify things. Its not really that much work to actually do.

    If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

    Custom Mirage products: Cruise control kit, Glove box light, MAF sensor housing
    Current project: Developing a rear sway bar alternative


        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 41.7 mpg (US) ... 17.7 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.0 mpg (Imp)

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  3. #2
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    Excellent write up!
    I'm wondering about what all the other wires are for at the plug that you tap into at the clockspring? The car's at my work have bluetooth and radio controls on the steering wheel(but no cruise). I'm wondering if your kit would work on cars like ours or would something be disabled after unplugging that harness? Or would those extra wires maybe be for front and rear fog lights? I'll look into it next time I have one apart.

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