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Thread: Tearing apart a CVT (lots of pics)

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    Tearing apart a CVT (lots of pics)

    For anyone interested, I'm tearing apart another cvt. Name:  IMG_0620[1].jpg
Views: 231
Size:  93.5 KB I first removed the torque converter, then the 12mm bolts holding the front case to the main case This is the back side of what I'd call the front case (closest to the engine)Name:  IMG_0627[1].jpg
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Size:  94.7 KB It has a crazy heavy duty park pawl Name:  IMG_0628[1].jpg
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    Name:  IMG_0629[1].jpg
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Size:  96.3 KB After removing the gears,oil pump drive chain and input shaft housing : Name:  IMG_0631[1].jpg
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Size:  97.9 KB Here is the input shaft and what's left of the thrust washer that piled up. This is the only real weak link I've seen so far everything seems stout otherwise:Name:  IMG_0666[1].jpg
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Size:  96.2 KB Where the ring and pinion gears go: Name:  IMG_0632[1].jpg
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Size:  96.6 KB


    Last edited by Fummins; 04-03-2018 at 04:45 PM.

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    Name:  IMG_0638[1].jpg
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Size:  86.9 KB Name:  IMG_0639[1].jpg
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Size:  89.2 KB Name:  IMG_0640[1].jpg
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Size:  96.8 KB Name:  IMG_0641[1].jpg
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Size:  93.6 KB Looks like a hand scribed part number on the inside lip-Name:  IMG_0642[1].jpg
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Size:  92.3 KB Name:  IMG_0643[1].jpg
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Size:  99.1 KB Name:  IMG_0644[1].jpg
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Size:  94.3 KB Name:  IMG_0645[1].jpg
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Size:  86.0 KB Name:  IMG_0647[1].jpg
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Size:  86.9 KB Name:  IMG_0648[1].jpg
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Size:  96.8 KB Name:  IMG_0649[1].jpg
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Size:  93.4 KB Then remove a large snap ring Name:  IMG_0650[1].jpg
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Size:  97.4 KB And pull out what looks like another clutch pack Name:  IMG_0651[1].jpg
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Size:  91.1 KB Below the discs is another large c clip, I couldn't get it out easily so I left it. It seem to only hold one plate with holes around the perimeter:Name:  IMG_0652[1].jpg
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Size:  97.2 KB
    Now to the valve body. Pull the oil pan(10mm bolts). Name:  IMG_0655[1].jpg
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Size:  96.3 KB Remove the 14mm nut that holds a lever to the bottom of the shift shaft. Be careful not to lose the piston in the valve body, it slides out either end. Name:  IMG_0657[1].jpg
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Size:  95.4 KB To remove valvebody remove all the 10mm bolts that have the number 7 on the head, leave all the rest of the bolts and nuts alone. The round plug for the wiring should come out with the valve body out the bottom.Name:  IMG_0658[1].jpg
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Size:  88.8 KB Valve body removedName:  IMG_0659[1].jpg
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Size:  93.1 KB Back to the center case, to remove the oil pump the shift shaft is in the way, I had to dissassemble the pump to remove it. The only other way was to punch out the roll pin holding the detent lever near the top of the shaft. 4 bolts was easier. Here's the upper half of the oil pump: Name:  IMG_0661[1].jpg
Views: 217
Size:  86.9 KB and the lower Name:  IMG_0663[1].jpg
Views: 219
Size:  91.2 KB
    Last edited by Fummins; 04-03-2018 at 04:39 PM.

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    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    You need any special tools to get this far...or just a pair of snap-ring pliers?!?

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 51.3 mpg (US) ... 21.8 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.7 mpg (Imp)


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    Just regular tools needed. A 10,12, and 14mm socket so far. To get the snap ring for the oil pump gear I just used needle nosed pliers to open the ring, to get the one holding the clutch discs I used a small flat blade. There are some bolts that have a weird head (inverted torx e16)on them but a 6point 12mm fit them fine, you could use the proper socket too. Name:  IMG_0665[1].jpg
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    Last edited by Fummins; 04-03-2018 at 04:46 PM.

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    6 mm allen bolts to remove, Oil pump re assembled: Name:  IMG_0667[1].jpg
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Size:  90.2 KBHere's something I've never noticed before. A big plug in the front of the cvt just below the dipstick tube. Name:  IMG_0668[1].jpg
Views: 214
Size:  89.2 KB A 10mm allen socket would remove that. Name:  IMG_0669[1].jpg
Views: 213
Size:  89.3 KB

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    Any reason you are tearing this one down? Is this a recent failure?

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 51.3 mpg (US) ... 21.8 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.7 mpg (Imp)


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    But can I put on a locking differential because I have to control all this power somehow.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 50.1 mpg (US) ... 21.3 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 60.1 mpg (Imp)


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    This is the one that failed with around 220000kms. I originally replaced it with one that I attempted to fix a cracked main case. It started leaking within a few days. I either missed a spot when I brazed the case or I warped the case from too much heat. I haven't torn it apart yet to see yet. If it's too screwed I was gonna try to swap the guts from it to this case. If it's not too much trouble that is. I'm down to the clutches and I'm not sure how they come out. I don't really want part to fly across the building.

    And yes eggman you could put a locker in anything. If they make one. One tire of fire is pretty lame though. It's easy to pull the ring gear/carrier assembly. Just weld the side gears to the spider gears like they do in demo derby cars. Have yourself a Lincoln locker. Name:  IMG_0677[1].jpg
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Size:  90.9 KB You'll want to slide your axles in to align the gears properly before attempting hack.
    Last edited by Fummins; 04-05-2018 at 12:59 PM. Reason: I forgot to type the word "weld". Kinda doesn't make sense without it.

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    Ha you took me seriously. Sorry. I only spin on ice & snow. Besides I often wonder if ASC does this by applying brake to the slipping wheel.

    I just wanted to be the first to ask.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 50.1 mpg (US) ... 21.3 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 60.1 mpg (Imp)


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    Ha, I did no such thing. You took me seriously though



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