Mitsubishi got me good. I recently lost a transponder chip out of my key fob (should have listened to foama), while getting my keys out of my pocket the key fob had separated because the small screw that holds the fob together had sheared in two, this led to the door clicker to fall out of the fob onto the ground which i had picked up, however i had not noticed that the small transponder chip had also fallen out of the fob (because it's only held in by friction fit when it really should have been glued) and two days later when I went to start the car I could not do so, because it had been so long between losing the chip I was unable to find it on the ground which left me stranded 2 hours from home. I had to drive home in another car and get my only other key and then drive back! Down to one functional key and with the possibility of losing the other one I really wanted to get back to two and then definitely three keys but didn't really want to pay hundreds of dollars to mitsubishi or a locksmith.
*this thread only applies to the following keys, I have no knowledge of fast keys or other keys, and my car is australian.
From my experience messing around with other cars, I knew that being down to one key was not great, it's usually much easier to program new keys with two than one. Wanting to eliminate the chance of losing the other key in the interim I superglued the remaining transponder chip to the key barrel out of sight, this was not a great long term solution because it means anyone with a screwdriver can steal the car as the immobilizer is not functional.
Wishing to return to normal I then ordered myself a new chip from ebay(1) when it arrived I began the lengthy process of trying to return to a state where two separate keys were programmed to the car.
I did try to borrow a snap on scan tool to achieve this but it turned out to be not helpful, and at that stage I didn't understand that I was inputting the wrong immo passcode/password. Which for my car a 2015 mirage LA ES was "0A11" < take note of this for others who have this issue. I'm not sure if other markets have different codes, I suspect they might, check this very useful site for others, https://www.mri-auto-diagnostics.com...ic/mitsubishi/
I proceeded to attempting to make MUT Multi User Tester III SE >*"Second Edition"*< work for me on a laptop running Windows 10 64bit. This was not easy haha. If you have trouble installing MUT, I tried different versions, also having the installation files in C:/ and running in administrator may help. Database installation is a common failure point, so don't panic if this happens to you, also instillation necessitates ample patience aka it takes a very long time. I sourced MUT from here https://forum.kolyandex.su/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=19
Having messed around a bit before with Etacs from when I installed a DAOX cruise kit ect I already had a mini VCI cable. I already had the MVCI driver for etacs decoder installed and this seemed to work for the mini VCI I had. Although there is an xhorse driver on the computer also. The details are rather bad as it was years ago that I got this cable to work and don't remember how I did it.
These driver might also help. https://cloud.kolyandex.su/index.php/s/egHeO7yJgZIogZx https://forum.kolyandex.su/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=21
MVCI driver for etacs decoder https://drive.google.com/file/d/13jE...gkdQH6AB00Ej74 https://etacsdecoder.com/software/
I also vaguely remember having to find a 64 bit fix because I was running 64 bit but I can't seem to locate that fix any longer.
While the cable was functional, MUT III SE didn't want to cooperate, constantly giving me errors and it wasn't "seeing" the car. It was not until I came across some files on the internet that it finally started working for me.
http://blog.obdii365.com/2023/12/14/...j2534-drivers/
The following webpage was crucial to proceeding. Once you have MUT III on your system you need to download this archive https://mega.nz/file/g3ZxHTJb#YSLyh_...W-w4G0bScp9t-c, unzip it and place the two files into the MUT directory which should be on C:/, the files should be placed in C:/MUTSW_SE/MUT3_SE/System/Common, it'll ask if you want to overwrite and you do. This enables you to make MUT see your adapter and use it, something it's unwilling to do otherwise.
Evidently Mini VCI is one of the bad adapters to attempt to use but I didn't want to spend anymore money and it did work in the end. The better adapters are Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 / ScanDoc Compact (J2534) / Scanmatik 2/2 Pro
Anyway, moving on, you need to plug your adapter into the cars OBD2 port, then into your computer and then turn the car to the second ignition point, the one before starting it for this to work. You then open MUT III SE, press STV and then select the right "driver" for your VCI adapter. Then it may ask you if you want to use either VCI lite or VCI which you just press the tick, I don't understand it and neither will you.
Then you're IN, it should automatically identify your car and then all you have to do is scroll down on the left hand side to where it says KOS/OSS/IMMO/Keyless and double click.
Once you do it will open a new window
Go special function
Then key registration
Then enter the password 0A11 or whatever password for your market/car, see what I wrote on this earlier, then hit execute, then you take your first key out and put in your second, at this point I had replaced my missing transponder chip in my second key, I was a bit worried about turning the car off and putting the second key in but if you do it quick enough it doesn't cause any issues.
This is the replacement chip I purchased for around 15 dollars.