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Thread: Engine Removal Tips

  1. #11
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    It's sounding like the driveway solution might be better off coming out the top/front. I can't lift the whole car up 3 feet, don't have that kind of equipment available.

    I just looked. Only a couple inches of clearance on the passenger side, so it wouldn't be possible to just pull the engine without the trans from the top.

    So... what if we jacked it up and...
    Lower the subframe
    Pull the transmission from the bottom (or maybe even just undo the mounts and move it as far as it will move to the left)
    Pull the engine from the top?


    Simplify and add lightness.

  2. #12
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Looking at the car again... the transmission doesn't extend past the frame rail on the left. How hard is it to pull the axles out of the transmission? Seems like with that, the whole assembly would come straight up without issue?

    As long as we drain the transmission first, that shouldn't be too messy.
    Simplify and add lightness.

  3. #13
    Moderator inuvik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren View Post
    Looking at the car again... the transmission doesn't extend past the frame rail on the left. How hard is it to pull the axles out of the transmission? Seems like with that, the whole assembly would come straight up without issue?

    As long as we drain the transmission first, that shouldn't be too messy.
    That was my initial thought. It seems like it would be the simplest.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 automatic: 40.5 mpg (US) ... 17.2 km/L ... 5.8 L/100 km ... 48.6 mpg (Imp)


  4. #14
    Administrator Daox's Avatar
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    That is how I've done most engine swaps in the past.
    Custom Mirage products: Cruise control kit, Glove box light, MAF sensor housing, Rear sway bar, Upper grill block

    Current project: DIY Nitrous oxide setup for ~$100

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 47.2 mpg (US) ... 20.1 km/L ... 5.0 L/100 km ... 56.7 mpg (Imp)


  5. #15
    Axles are simple to pull. Easier with an impact.
    -Pull the wheels,
    -remove the axle nuts
    -remove the ball joint nut or nut and bolt(can't remember which it one it has)
    -Remove tie rod end nut
    -hit spindle from rear of car at tie rod, don't hit tie rod end or threads. Tie rod should break free after hitting spindle a time or two
    -pry down on control arm with big pry bar, might have to hit control arm or pry bar down to help it
    -pull spindle away from axle, might have to tap axle through the hub a little, use a punch so you don't hammer on the threads of the shaft
    -Drain transmission,
    -Pull axles from transmission, might have to use a pry bar between axle and transmission. They're in there pretty good.

    I'm sure someone on the forum has pulled the transmission(5spd) without pulling the subframe.

    Many ways to do it.
    When I've pulled engines from 04+ F150's I've always unbolted everything from below first, then pull the cab off, then pull the engine. Could pull a cab off in an hour. A co worker did the same engine job by leaving the cab. He had to pull the intake and squeeze it out scratching the crap out of everything along the way. We did the same job in close to the same time. One way had more bolts but less fighting and damage done.
    Mirage videos:

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  6. #16
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Okay, cool. The plan is coming together!

    Oh, and I finally bought a proper ball joint separator (a cheap one from Harbor Freight) a couple years ago. Best. Tool. Ever. No more "pickle fork", no shredding ball joint or tie rod boots, no banging with a hammer. Just go after it with a half-inch ratchet, and ka-bang, it pops right out!

    I've had all the ball joints and outer tie-rods loose on this car before, they've all been replaced with trick custom parts. Because race car.

    As long as the axles aren't too stuck... should go pretty easily. (Last time I pulled an axle was on the Festiva while replacing a transmission... the circlip shifted out of its groove in the splines and bound up. We ended up beating the crap out of that axle to get it out. Mangled the circlip. Fortunately, we had a spare axle.)
    Simplify and add lightness.

  7. #17
    Because race car
    Mirage videos:

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  8. #18
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Yeah, it's looking like coming out the top is going to be super-easy. We spent a lazy 3 hours getting things out of the way today, and there's SO much space.

    Pulled the fender liners, bumper, upper core support, radiator and AC condenser, battery, battery tray, and airbox. Drained the engine oil and transmission oil. Unbolted the lower control arm (easier than separating the ball joint) and the lower strut bolts. Unbolted the outer tie-rod ends. The whole hub assembly is literally hanging on the axle at this point.

    Ready to pull the axles. Then heater hoses, fuel lines, wiring and shifter cables. That's about it! We're starting at 8:30, could have it out by 10 if we wanted to.

    Quick question for anyone who's done it: What's the easiest way to undo the shifter cables? I'd rather not have to fully readjust them. Just need to get the transmission out with the engine, whichever way is easiest to accomplish that.
    Last edited by Loren; 10-26-2018 at 07:20 PM.
    Simplify and add lightness.

  9. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Loren For This Useful Post:

    Daox (10-26-2018),Fummins (10-26-2018),Top_Fuel (10-27-2018)

  10. #19
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Shifter cables - looked this up in the manual last night. Easy. Undo the two clips and just pop the ends off of the levers on the transmission. I didn't want to force it yesterday without knowing that. That's what it looked like, but I didn't want to break something by forcing it to do something it wasn't supposed to do!
    Simplify and add lightness.

  11. #20
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Engine and transmission came out without a fuss. The axles are a bit of a bugger to get popped out. Oherwise everything was easy.

    3 hours on day 1, and less than 90 minutes on day 2. That's what it took to get the engine out. If I'd had the same crew on day 1, the total removal time would have been right about 3 hours, and that's still not rushing.

    Plan on removing the intake manifold (which requires removing the fuel rail... 2 bolts). The knock sensor and oil pressure sensor are buried under there. Much easier to remove without breaking connectors if you just pull the intake manifold.

    And for the shift cables, we opted to not mess with the clips on them, and just remove the bracket from the transmission (3 bolts) rather than risk damaging those weird metal clips that we couldn't figure out.


    Simplify and add lightness.

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