I think we need to go over the whole system in a bit more detail to see what we’re looking at. The first post went over the brief overview, but there is obviously a bit more to it when you are building your own system vs just buying a kit. Lets start with the tank and work our way towards the engine’s intake system because that just makes sense to me. Also, I’ve gotten most of this information from Nitrous.info. The site is full of very helpful information on DIY nitrous oxide systems for motorcycles and cars.
The tank is well, a high pressure tank. The tank has to handle a bit over 1000 psi of pressure. Nitrous oxide tanks are basically the same thing as CO2 tanks, but with a different valve. However, CO2 are much more prevalent (and thus cheaper). CO2 tanks are pressure tested to 3000 psi, so they’ll easily handle the job. Also, all CO2 tanks have a burst valve which is rated for something less than 3000 psi. If the tank pressure gets too high, this valve literally bursts and vents the contents of the tank to keep things safe.
Next up we have any adapters that will be needed to convert the tank fitting (whatever it may be) to the high pressure tubing fitting. The adapter(s) also need to be rated at very high pressures since they will also handle that ~1000 psi between the bottle and the solenoid valve.
That leads us to the high pressure tubing. This is braided stainless tubing. It also is a tubing that has to be rated at 1000+ psi since it is handling the full pressure of the bottle. Not the cheapest stuff at ~$5 per foot from mcmaster-carr (I’m sure there are cheaper places).
Next up we need adapters again to convert from the braided tubing to the solenoid valve. Again, the fittings must hold up to 1000 psi and convert from the stainless tubing fittings to whatever the solenoid valve has.
The key ingredient that we need now is a nitrous solenoid valve. This valve has to be able to switch that 1000 psi on and off which is no simple task. That is a lot of pressure to open against. Typically, these are a bit pricey, but I’ll show you how we’re going to find one for under $20. We’ll go over this one in a lot more detail as we get to it.
Next on our parts list is a jet. This item will regulate how much nitrous flow we get, and thus how much horsepower we’re going to make. Nitrous.info has a beautiful chart showing how much power you make for different nozzle sizes. It shows what size nozzle for nitrous and for fuel if doing a wet system. We will be making our own nozzles as its much cheaper. So, we can select whatever amount of power we want by swapping out this one part (or two parts if its a wet system).
Next we need more fittings to hold the jet, and also to convert from the solenoid and jet to the lower pressure tubing that will go to the intake of the car. This of course means we’ll need lower pressure tubing, and also some fittings to connect the tubing to the intake.
Last up, we’ll need to wire things up. At the least, we need 12V power, an arming switch to confirm we want to use the system, and an activation switch to open up the solenoid valve.
Here is an example diagram I threw together to roughly illustrate what we're looking at.
These are the parts required for a dry system. If we want a wet system we will also need these parts.
A tee or tap of some form to get fuel from the fuel line to our fuel solenoid valve. The fuel pressure in our cars is a normal ~45psi. So, we aren’t dealing with any crazy pressures. Just about any ‘ol fitting will work here as long as we use clamps to hold it in place. I imagine a brass barbed fitting will be suitable.
Tubing will be needed next to bring the fuel from the tee to the fuel solenoid valve. Again, anything rated for 60 psi and that will hold up to gasoline will be fine. Rubber fuel line is a good inexpensive choice, but plastic line is fine too.
We need fittings to convert the rubber or plastic line to whatever fitting the solenoid uses. I imagine again brass barbed fittings.
Now, we need the fuel solenoid valve. Again, since we’re dealing with only ~60 psi, this isn’t nearly as hard as finding a solenoid valve that handles 1000 psi. We just have to find one that has seals that can handle gasoline.
Next up is more fittings to convert to low pressure tubing like we did on the nitrous side. And, we’ll also need fittings to convert the tubing to the intake system.
Phew, that is a lot of parts! Next up, we will start going over how to select each component of the system.
View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 45.4 mpg (US) ... 19.3 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 54.6 mpg (Imp)