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Thread: Will factory battery last > 4 years?

  1. #21
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    Fc321,, your post sound like you are stressing far to much about making the right choice..
    Thank you for your posts and pics as they will help others..
    As a friendly word of advice.. think not in terms of right and wrong,, but in works and doesn't..
    factory battery was not working for you,, even if just cause you felt you could not trust it.
    The 35 size and 24 size would both work for you, as does the scooter battery for the guy using it , they all work so they are all right choices.
    Smile, relax, and thanks for sharing
    Please post pictures of your modified tray in case others wish to upsize their battery when replacing



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  3. #22
    Senior Member fc321's Avatar
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    Thanks all for your input. I am travelling out of the country for a week so will update thread when I return. As far as the battery....heh-heh I cant go back to Walmart AGAIN....I mean that would just be crazy.

    Actually I dont really have that option open anymore since the cashier at the customer service rang the transaction up as an exchange and their warranty only covers 1 exchange and after that you are stuck with the dang thing.

    Also please keep in mind that I am running a larger load than the majority of you other guys, I have an aftermarket sound system with an amplifier, high wattage speakers, hard-wired dashcam, a radar detector and other gadgets.

    But just from a mathematical point of view I think the 24F battery with more cca for the same price is a better overall value. But I misread the other chaps thread about when he installed the 24F, I had thought there was no chopping up the plastic that would be involved but I misread it. I dont mind chopping the plastic, it will make a fun Sunday project.

    But bear in mind that the assistant manager at AutoZone told me the batttery needed to be replaced and also that it was at the bare bottom of the range when I tested it at home with multi-meter. If you read my other threads you would know im the cheapest penny-pincher on this entire forum but also I feel its a false economy to try to push items to the absolute threshold of failure. A depleted battery could mess up my expensive electronic gadgets or even harm the alternator and im going to be taking a long road trip and if i get stuck in some 1 horse town I may end up paying $200 for a battery or stranded at 2 am in front of a cornfield.

    It was a $48 battery. Group 24F. If I do the cuts properly I think I am going to be better off than a person with a Group 35 battery. I will take plenty of pictures, stand by
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  4. #23
    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    Thanks all for your input.
    And thanks for starting this thread. It certainly brought up a lot to discuss.

    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    I am travelling out of the country for a week so will update thread when I return.
    Nice. I like traveling. It can be stressful sometimes, but usually brings good memories. Safe travels.

    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    As far as the battery....heh-heh I cant go back to Walmart AGAIN....I mean that would just be crazy.

    Actually I dont really have that option open anymore since the cashier at the customer service rang the transaction up as an exchange and their warranty only covers 1 exchange and after that you are stuck with the dang thing.
    At least you got what you wanted. I think your logic is reasonable with your decision to replace your battery and to size up - I get it.

    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    Also please keep in mind that I am running a larger load than the majority of you other guys, I have an aftermarket sound system with an amplifier, high wattage speakers, hard-wired dashcam, a radar detector and other gadgets.
    Emphasis added - I think this is a big factor that will accelerate aging of any battery. When one compares the various electric energy storage methods readily available, the cost and durability of lead-acid technology is hard to beat. Here, it makes sense to size up and not pay more than you have to, because if your dashcam is constantly drawing power from your battery - even when the engine is not running - it will age the battery faster.

    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    But just from a mathematical point of view I think the 24F battery with more cca for the same price is a better overall value. But I misread the other chaps thread about when he installed the 24F, I had thought there was no chopping up the plastic that would be involved but I misread it. I dont mind chopping the plastic, it will make a fun Sunday project.
    Don't chop the plastic tray. My take is, it is not a heat shield (though there is some such benefit there) as much as it's intended to catch any acid spilled from the factory non-sealed battery, and route it away from stuff. My old cars had no such plastic bucket - only the steel tray for the battery to strap in to.

    Forget about chopping up the plastic tray thingy. Save it for later.

    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    But bear in mind that the assistant manager at AutoZone told me the batttery needed to be replaced and also that it was at the bare bottom of the range when I tested it at home with multi-meter. If you read my other threads you would know im the cheapest penny-pincher on this entire forum but also I feel its a false economy to try to push items to the absolute threshold of failure. A depleted battery could mess up my expensive electronic gadgets or even harm the alternator and im going to be taking a long road trip and if i get stuck in some 1 horse town I may end up paying $200 for a battery or stranded at 2 am in front of a cornfield.
    At least you can post pictures of the cornfield hahaha. Sorry. The home meter test is a good idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    It was a $48 battery. Group 24F. If I do the cuts properly I think I am going to be better off than a person with a Group 35 battery. I will take plenty of pictures, stand by
    I think your install looks fine as it is, so I say leave it.

    Good job.
    Last edited by Eggman; 02-05-2019 at 01:40 PM.

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  6. #24
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    Bro you're in Miami, you could probably start a mirage with a AA Energizer. Just go talk to the manager and say this is your first go around with this and get the original one you had. Also you dont want to not have a warranty because some lady at walmart messed up the transaction. I'd never stand for that lol.

    Pretty much any 35 series will provide more CCA than the stocker. But reserve is more important than cca for most people anyway.

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    Senior Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    Chances are his stock battery with 78% life in it had more capacity than that $49 Walmart battery. To each his own.

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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    These things will start with pretty crappy batteries. I found that out yesterday, someone hit the ditch filled the engine compartment with snow so bad the belt burnt up. They just kept on driving with the battery light on. By the time I went to pick it off the side of the road it had 9volts left and still started and ran without an alternator. The power steering didn't work and some dash lights were on(probably cause they overheated it) but it had enough juice to run the car. I wonder if that's an idiot proof design for those too dumb or unable to pull over if they have a charging problem, just cut power to the circuits that suck a lot of juice that aren't necessary to drive?

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 35.1 mpg (US) ... 14.9 km/L ... 6.7 L/100 km ... 42.1 mpg (Imp)


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    These things will start with pretty crappy batteries. I found that out yesterday, someone hit the ditch filled the engine compartment with snow so bad the belt burnt up. They just kept on driving with the battery light on. By the time I went to pick it off the side of the road it had 9volts left and still started and ran without an alternator. The power steering didn't work and some dash lights were on(probably cause they overheated it) but it had enough juice to run the car. I wonder if that's an idiot proof design for those too dumb or unable to pull over if they have a charging problem, just cut power to the circuits that suck a lot of juice that aren't necessary to drive?
    Wow 9volts fired it? Seems impossible. 11v is considered fully discharged.

  10. #28
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    4 Years no problem if you have not drained it down, jumped a ton with it. ran it regularly, let the alternator recharge the battery, and keep the terminals clean and connections tight.

    The best thing you can purchase is a battery jumper pack I have a couple that have usb portable power, tire pump. and led flash light that could jump any normal vehicle. Luckily I never needed for myself but I have helped family in several pinches and a few senior citizens.

  11. #29
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    I'd all bs too, but Attachment 13876They abandoned the car at 1:27 It was still running below 9volts. Then it either died or they shut it off. I got to the car Edit:"about an hour later" and it fired up(barely) and drove onto the trailer. The voltage was between 8-9.5volts according to the gps, which is relatively accurate. It was -30C to make it more fun..
    It was weird, the car started(barely) but the power steering wouldn't work, power windows moved an inch then stopped.
    It then started again and drove off the trailer at 3:27 when I got back to the shop.
    Last edited by Fummins; 02-05-2019 at 10:23 PM.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 35.1 mpg (US) ... 14.9 km/L ... 6.7 L/100 km ... 42.1 mpg (Imp)


  12. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc321 View Post
    It was a $48 battery. Group 24F. If I do the cuts properly I think I am going to be better off than a person with a Group 35 battery. I will take plenty of pictures, stand by
    I am not going to knock your purchase. If you feel good about it, that's all that matters. You just helped me realize sticking with a group 35 battery is less of a headache.

    Having said that, this may or may not be helpful to you. I don't know how important the battery case is, but I have a battery case for a marine battery that I use for my electric trolling motor. When I looked up the cost of one of these on the Walmart website, it was less than $8. It also states that it's for a group 24 marine battery. I don't know if these match up size-wise, but it may be worth checking out. If you don't want to cut up your box (which I wouldn't do), this may be something you can make work.

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Snap-Top-...y-Box/16781379



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