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Thread: Ceramic Coating our Mirage this week!

  1. #11
    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik1109 View Post
    I ended up removing all badges from the rear, and I have to say it really cleaned up the appearance.
    I did that, too. Less stuff to work around.


        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 52.2 mpg (US) ... 22.2 km/L ... 4.5 L/100 km ... 62.6 mpg (Imp)


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    Pictures as promised. I am working on a write up for doing a coating on any car, but based on the Mirage as shown.

    I used Opti Coat Pro Plus, which added a decent gloss to the Mirage. As being a more cost effective vehicle, the paint is THIN and textured. I elected to not wetsand on those two facts combined, as that would go south fast.

    The following are all after pictures. I have more that I will include in the write up this evening. Name:  20190329_124225.jpg
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  3. #13
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    As promised, a step by step for Ceramic coating my 2018 Mitsubishi Mirage

    1. Degrease vehicle (I used Orange Crush by Technicians Choice)

    This cuts a lot of grime, with less water entering cracks and crevices. I rinse with a high pressure stream of water.

    2. I chose to debadge the vehicle at this point. Using fishing line like floss between the emblem and the body cuts quickly. Remove the residue with a tar and adhesive remover. (In a pinch you can use low voc brake cleaner on a rag, yes, it is safe on solvent based painted vehicles, NOT SAFE ON LACQUER OR SINGLE STAGE)

    3. Wash the vehicle at this point. I use a 3 bucket method (wash, rinse, wheels) I personally use ONR, which is a hyper concentrated wash soap that literally takes a cap full to a gallon.

    4. Rinse the vehicle, make sure your water isnt hard water. (Well water is often hard if not put through a filtration system)

    5. Clay the vehicle. I use a nanoskin in lieu of actual clay, lots of pros and cons to both, boils down to preference as well as the condition/value of the vehicle. I used diluted ONR for my clay lube, proper mix ratio is on any bottle.

    6. Dry the vehicle by means of your choice. I use a water blade and air gun, and have a dedicated process for doing so that produces excellent results without scratching, but it's a process I've been modifying for 15 years now.

    7. Complete your decontamination. Tr.Ix is a great choice at this point, it removes tar AND iron deposits (tiny red dots in your paint) plus its reactive in color so you can see it working.

    8. Polish the vehicle to perfection, or whatever your desired condition is. I finesse with HD Speed by 3D, and the results are phenomenal, single product, just move through different pads for desired cut and polish.

    9.Allow vehicle to dry, 100%. Blow out EVERY CRACK and CREVICES. WATER IS THE ENEMY OF APPLYING A COATING.

    10. Make sure vehicle is dry.

    11. Check paint condition with a true sun style light. LEDs are often your friend here. Lighting and paint correction is a write up in itself, to be tackled another day.

    12. Wipe vehicle down with a prep wipe of choice. I use IPA on an edge less microfiber. Get every square inch. Failure to remove all oils will result in a failed coating.

    13. Tape off everywhere you arent coating. I used a different coating for glass and lights, so they were taped off.

    14. Put on protective gear. (Gloves, respirator, etc.)

    15. The fun begins. Prime your applicator according to directions. For Opti Coat, as I used, I did an X shape out of 10 or so dots. Less is more, trust me.

    16. Apply the coating in a panel by panel method. Cross hatch style, so to speak. Cover the panel, left to right strokes. Follow up with up down strokes.

    17. Allow to 'flash'. You'll actually see this happen, with proper lighting. Again, lighting and vehicle paint is a whole another discussion.

    18. Wipe the coating where you see it isnt 'leveled' i.e. where you see coating still on the surface after a minute of flashing. Be gentle, you can wipe off a coating if you arent. Once it feels smooth, you've wiped enough. Wipe with a brand new, clean, edgeless, tagless microfiber.

    19. Repeat steps on every panel. Opti coat is a one and done layer coating, then topped with an additional gloss coat, but that's a more advanced procedure. Some coatings can be layered, but proceed with caution, and consult with someone familiar with that coating with any questions.

    20. Allow it to cure fully. I often cure with an infrared light. Or you can let it air cure for 24+ hours.

    21. Enjoy the gloss and plentiful benefits of a ceramic coating.



    I am sure I skipped a step, but I will edit as I think of any skipped steps. I will also be adding pictures when I am able to.

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Erik1109 For This Useful Post:

    Daox (03-30-2019),Scratchpaddy (03-30-2019)

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    Hubcap Enthusiast Scratchpaddy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the detailed write-up! Your original post a month ago got me wondering about my detail regimen for my own new car. I've never gone further than clay bar, compound, and wax, and this was the first time I'd heard of ceramic coating.

    Ultimately I decided against it. As you've explained in detail, it's a painstaking process to do it right, and it's best done with tools and space I don't have access to as an apartment-dweller. I went with a sealant (Jescar Power Lock Plus) instead. It will only last months instead of years, but it's more forgiving if you don't do it right, and it's still much more durable than the wax that was my go-to, until you opened my eyes to the world of modern car paint protection products.

    I admire your patience and attention to detail to do a ceramic coating yourself. Getting it done professionally is silly expensive, especially on a car in this price bracket.

    Quote Originally Posted by Erik1109 View Post
    12. Wipe vehicle down with a prep wipe of choice. I use IPA on an edge less microfiber. Get every square inch. Failure to remove all oils will result in a failed coating.
    This was the only part that confused me. What is IPA? All I can think of is "India Pale Ale", and I'm sure you're not wiping down your car with beer...

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    Senior Member Mitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scratchpaddy View Post
    ...
    What is IPA? All I can think of is "India Pale Ale", and I'm sure you're not wiping down your car with beer...
    Isopropyl alcohol

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    I am glad I could show you more of the detailing world! Jescar and Collinite 845 is a killer combo, even when applied by hand.

    I normally, with paint correction included as well as an interior detail added on, am north of 1500 for a multi year ceramic coating. Opti Coat actually reports to CarFax every vehicle I apply it to, and written warranty is 7 years. I couldn't justify 20% worth of a cars value put into protection on paint that isnt that great to start with.

    In materials I had close to 300 invested into today's project. For me having the Mirage ceramic coated is a better tool than a business card, so I could justify it.

    Also, IPA is isopropyl alcohol.


    Last edited by Erik1109; 03-30-2019 at 01:54 AM. Reason: Jescar not nascar.

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