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Thread: RUST Front axle de-rusted many pix

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    RUST Front axle de-rusted many pix

    Mine is not even five years old, and it is a f*!king pita and a shame for any automaker how quickly the axles rust away!
    This car is hosed off underneath at least a few times a year, including during and after winter.
    Starting year two, after every winter it is thoroughly inspected underneath. Axle rust thoroughly brushed or sanded away, undercoated with corrosion primer, and finally given two layers of enamel.
    A year after the last treatment, it looks almost like before!

    I remember in 1975 there was a shortage of sheet metal, and VW, Alfa Romeo and a few other makers bought cheap sheet metal from communist East Germany. The cars that were made of that stuff rusted through after round about two years. I had one one those cars and the windshield fell out in year three, the outside metal of the doors flapping in the wind, rusted off all around the seams. The police took it off the road permanently although the bi-yearly safety inspection certificate was still valid for more than a year.
    The underlying problem being the steel contained scrap metal, and was too hurriedly made, not being heated long enough in the blast furnace during manufacture. The ordered amounts had to be hurridly produced in time, and making good steel takes time! This resulted in an unusually high oxygen content within the inferior steel. The oxygen coming from the rust contained within the recycled material, too quickly made for getting rid of (firing off) the oxygen. That particular steel was proven to rust in a vacuum chamber. I don't know if this is the problem here, but a year after the last treatment, it looks almost like before! Just getting the front axle perfectly done took the whole day! The rear axle can only be worse.

    Tools for the job included a grinder wioth a steel brush attachment, manual steel brushes, sandpaper, a spray can of corrosion inhibiting undercoating, a can of black enamel.



    The following pix show the extent of rust that was to be seen at the end of this winter. Prior to that, the same de-rusting job was done the year before!

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    The actual car body was cavity-waxed from day one, and is 100% OK.

    The rusty exhaust is next.

    The painted front axle below:



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    The exhaust looking rusty two pictures above was done and now looks like this:

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    EDIT:

    After treatment as above, both axles were painted over with the same sort of paint as used for painting steel bridges or ocean-going steel ships. That sort of paint has a much higher viscosity than rattle-can paint, and consequently results in a much thicker layer. After the (salty) winter, both axles look freshly painted and perfectly rust free.


    For rear axle see:

    https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...-axle-many-pix


    Last edited by foama; 03-04-2021 at 07:01 AM.

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    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    foama, I've noticed the same rust happening on my front undercarriage. Though the outward surface rust may be treated, I don't think much can be done about the interior.

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    Eggman, I fear you are 100% correct!
    The axles are just pressed metal welded. I get to being inside the Audi press-works in the Neckarsulm Audi factory about every year or so, and know how they make what they do and how they treat it. This is lightyears away from our axles. Such a pity, 50 cents worth of rust treatment saved, for what result?

    I would recommend owners of newer cars to have a good look for themselves, and do what must be done asap!
    Rust is like tooth decay, and must be addressed as early as possible.

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    foama, have you looked into rust converters such as Ospho? I've done some extensive reading of auto restorers - some swear by them, others haven't figured out how to use them properly and thus don't use them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ospho.com
    A Metal Treatment ........................ Not a Paint !

    For Application Questions Not Answered Here Call Factory Direct at: 216-771-1590


    HOW SKYCO OSPHO WORKS

    When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. A paint job will last longer after an application of OSPHO because subsequent paint coating securely attaches itself so that moisture and oxygen normally do not attack the metal. OSPHO is water-thin, can cover a larger area than paint, and goes on easily. It is equally effective for exterior and interior work alike. SKYCO OSPHO: a balanced formula of Phosphoric, Dichromate, Wetting Agents and Extenders . . . compounded exclusively by the Skybryte Company since 1947 ... recommended by paint manufacturers.
    It is similar to naval jelly, but in a more liquid form.

    From The Rust Store:
    Quote Originally Posted by TheRustStore.com
    What is Rust Converter?
    Rust Converter, a water-based primer, contains two active ingredients: Tannic acid and an organic polymer. The first ingredient, tannic acid, reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. Tannins are a group of water- and alcohol-soluble natural products extracted from fruits, trees and grasses. The second active ingredient, 2-Butoxyethanol, is an organic polymer that provides a protective primer layer. The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating that serves as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy based paints.
    Associated Wikipedia articles:
    Phosphate conversion coating
    Rust converter
    Last edited by Eggman; 03-16-2019 at 08:55 PM.

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    Senior Member klroger's Avatar
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    I think if you spray the car with an oil based undercoat as opposed to a greased base undercoat, you would be in better shape. The ""No Drip"" under coat they sell here does not creep into the seams etc.. If it doesn't drip on your lane way, it's not going to protect your car because it can't travel / weep into the seams.

    Roger

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2018 Mirage GT 1.2 automatic: 37.3 mpg (US) ... 15.9 km/L ... 6.3 L/100 km ... 44.8 mpg (Imp)


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    My Mirage was the first car that I had Krown applied to. I am a believer in this stuff. My car has virtually no rust underneath except for the exhaust system. Unfortunately, it's made with such a low grade of steel even Krown can't stop it from developing surface rust.

    Anyway...here is the thread showing the product being applied to my Mirage.

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 52.2 mpg (US) ... 22.2 km/L ... 4.5 L/100 km ... 62.6 mpg (Imp)


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    Quote Originally Posted by foama View Post
    Mine is not even five years old, and it is a f*!king pita and a shame for any automaker how quickly it rusts away!

    Oh, the exhaust was done and now looks like this:
    I would get the whole car undercoated with a Krown rust control too, they must have the same technology in Europe. Google 'Krown rust control' and you will get the gist of what I am talking about.

    At the local Krown place nearby I take my Mirage they have cars that normally don't survive Canada for long, like 1989 Chrysler LeBaron's, rare cars.

    Ya hate to say, these cars can be potential Hyundai Pony's from the 1980s

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.2 mpg (US) ... 17.9 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.7 mpg (Imp)


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    The car body was cavity waxed around all seams on day one, and is totally OK. Checked by endoscope.

    The metal of the axles are the problem!

    Neither any rust converter, actually an acid, or any other stuff covering the affected areas for preventing any electrolyte (dirty water) reaching it, will be able to do the trick.

    This is because in this special case, there is obviously enough oxygen within the metal of axle and welding sections to keep rusting continually going on by itself without any external factors. The rusting will perpetuate, even if the axle were to be kept in a total vacuum or submerged in a vat of oil. The problem looks like material inferiority.

    If the front axle will be repeatedly de-rusted and treated yearly, with very much effort it will probably have a life extended to maybe a total of ten years or so.

    The rear axle is a different story all together! The rusting seams are almost impossible to access with any power tools. A manual steel brush can not do the job, even if a brush could actually reach to the rust. Since the rear axle flexes, anything applied would need to retain enough flexibility to survive cold temperatures without cracking or loosening off. Even bitumen would be no good. Additionally, whatever is put on after de-rusting, it would have to come off easily enough next year by the latest when the entire process needs to be repeated. That would prohibit using any waxy, oily or greasy protective covering.
    The stuff on top of the metal, being undercoating, enamel, protective covering, will only stop the metal from becoming wet with dirty water from the street, and that way slowing down the process. Dirty street water is an electrolyte. Even perfectly covered this metal will rust away. This would also happen if the car sits unused in a covered garage!
    The problem is probably one of material inferiority. The oxygen (in rust) was introduced by the scrap metal the steel was made with. This take time, and It was not left in the blast furnace long enough to burn off all the oxygen before being processed into ingots and mailed into sheet metal, for the sake of saving money. This remaining oxygen contained within the metal will let it rust without any external influence at all.
    I have a limited rust garantee for this car, restricted to "rusting through from inside towards the outside", therefore not covering this issue, and leaving me alone with this problem and the financial results.
    What a fantasic Cost of Ownership!

    I must adress the rear axle soon, and will post some pictures in a different thread. Probably it will need an enormous effort with doubtful outcome. I will keep you folks posted.
    I desperately hope it will not be so bad that I will have to sell off this car quickly, because I certainly can not afford paying Mitsubishi prices for new axles that I would install myself to save money...






    EDIT:
    I approached a professional welder, and he lectured me, "Welding is a science and an art!"
    He explained these problems are very likely welding-related. The welding on these axles is almost certainly GMAC = gas metal arc welding, and amongst numerous other variables, the choices of electrode and shielding gas have great influence on the various qualities and the durability of the weld. If any variable is not really correct, the weld will not meet expectations.
    Last edited by foama; 03-18-2019 at 08:26 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by foama View Post
    The car body was cavity waxed around all seams on day one, and is totally OK. Checked by endoscope.

    The metal of the axles are the problem!

    Neither any rust converter, actually an acid, or any other stuff covering the affected areas for preventing any electrolyte (dirty water) reaching it, will be able to do the trick.

    I desperately hope it will not be so bad that I will have to sell off this car quickly, because I certainly can not afford paying Mitsubishi prices for new axles that I would install myself to save money...
    I think you're right there are problems with the metal on the Mirage, however under my Mirage 5 years oil undercoating has kept the rust to near 0 levels under my car.. except a few bolts they rust no matter what, even with the best rust protection.

    Do you get your Mitsubishi professionally rust proofed?

    Also the rubber seal around my Mirage's hatchback door, the back 5th door, pops off...so inadvertently I noticed that the metal under it, has some surface rust. No way around it. Mitsubishi Mirage's aren't the best for keeping mint.

    Rust proofing helps keep the electronics in better shape because it keeps wiring everything better
    A well-oiled machine keeps your motor running

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.2 mpg (US) ... 17.9 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.7 mpg (Imp)


  14. #10
    I'm not doing anything. The car's we have will be worn out before they rust out. The only place I foresee any major rust worth worrying about is the floor on the drivers side. Otherwise, most cars (that are used in the winter) around here look the same as the before pics you posted.


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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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