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Thread: Complete interior removal, with pictures!

  1. #1
    Hubcap Enthusiast Scratchpaddy's Avatar
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    Complete interior removal, with pictures!

    Mostly complete, anyway. I'm not taking out the dashboard, or touching the airbags, but everything else is coming out of my Mirage for sound deadening installation. There are a few guides on the site already, but pictures are few and far between, so I figured I'd document as I go, highlighting anything I struggled with.

    Door panels have already been covered in detail, so I won't go into that again.

    Here are some other threads on the subject:

    Very detailed instructions by BRagland: Added Sound Dampening (DIY instructions with photos)
    Another writeup by foama: How to do some noise dampening (adding adhesive tar bitumen tiles)
    Rear dome light install by kpthefatty: Lights in the back seat (rear dome light)

    Tools

    • 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets and a BIG ratchet handle for the bolts Superman tightened in Chonburi
    • #2 Phillips head screwdriver
    • Plastic trim removal tools. Seriously, they help a ton. Search any online marketplace, buy a set for $6. You're welcome.


    First, disconnect the battery. The car is full of airbags (read: explosive charges) which you don't want to detonate by accident.

    Seats

    I started with the driver's seat. Slide it all the way rearward, and unplug the plug on the front of the right rail. The little red tab under the plug must be slid forward slightly, which then allows you to depress the tab and pull the plug out.



    Slide the seat all the way forward and use a 12mm socket to remove the two LONG (be patient) bolts securing the rear of the rails. Slide the seat all the way back again and use a 14mm socket to remove the two nuts in front. Do it in this order, because having the rails in this position makes the next step easier, and messing with their position after un-bolting from the car will get them out of sync and make re-installation annoying.

    The seat is still attached by electrical wires, so don't yank it yet! Lean the seat back and shift it forward a bit to give the wires some slack. The driver's seat has two wires to unplug. The black plug has a tab which needs to be squeezed to pull it out. The yellow (airbag) plug has a white spring-loaded slider which needs to be slid back to release it. There's also an annoying zip-tie clip keeping the wires from getting yanked, which there may or may not be a clever way to release. I pried the whole clip out instead.



    Once it's free of wires, carefully maneuver the seat out the door, across the parking lot, up three flights of stairs, and into your apartment. Or maybe that last part is just me.

    The passenger seat has four plugs, all under the bottom cushion, but one connects stuff within the seat, instead of from the seat to the car, and can be ignored.

    For the rear seat, start with the front cushion. Lift up hard on the front of the cushion and it will pop off. Done.

    You don't necessarily have to remove the rear seat back, but it helps. First, use a 14mm socket to remove the center seat belt anchor. This is the only seat belt bolt you need to remove to get the seat out.



    Fold the seat back flat. Now that the front cushion's gone, it really does fold flat! Now remove the four bolts (14mm) on the sides. This is where I had to get the big-boy ratchet, because these bolts are tight!



    There's a sort of axle that runs between the two seat back backs. Starting with the 40% split, rotate it up some and move it crooked until it slides free. It's hard to describe, but it will slide right off when you have it positioned right. Repeat on the 60% split.

    Look at all the space!





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  3. #2
    Hubcap Enthusiast Scratchpaddy's Avatar
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    Plastic Trim

    I think it's best to start with the driver's skid plate. You can see, there's only a single white plastic rivet holding it in. Pull straight up to remove.



    Ignore the hood & fuel door releases. They're not in the way. The driver's kick panel has two plastic fasteners. The top one can be unscrewed by hand.



    For the other rivet, use your trim tool to pull out the center. Once it looks like this, it practically falls out on its own.



    Pull out enough of the rubber door gasket as you need to and pull the big black B-pillar piece with judicious application of force. The bottom piece the seat belt runs through can be separated so you don't have to un-bolt anything to free it.



    The top B-pillar trim is kind of a pain. You have to pry off the trim piece around the PULL thing. I pried on the part right over the seat belt bolt while squeezing the PULL piece to help the surrounding trim get around it. There's no need (and no obvious way) to remove the actual PULL piece.



    Now use a 14mm socket to remove the big seatbelt hanger blocking the top B-pillar trim piece.



    Once you start prying the top B-pillar trim piece off, keep in mind that the top of it is hooked into the headliner. Once it's nearly free, pull down, not out, to avoid damaging the headliner.

    Now head over to the rear area and use the trim levers to pop off all those black plastic rivets.



    The plastic pry tools really come in handy on the little hatch skid plate, which is secured very firmly with 4 white plastic rivets.



    By contrast, the gigantic black pieces over the wheel wells are held in with just one, at the rear. Be mindful of the wire for the cargo light. Pop the rivet, then reach in and unplug the light before you yank a wire out.



    When removing all these panels (especially the top light-colored quarter-panel trim), the white plastic rivets may remain behind in the car body. Do yourself a favor and pop them out of the car and place them back onto the trim panel, to make re-assembly easier, and to make sure you don't lose track of them.





    Finally, the center console is held down by two bolts with 10mm heads. The first is in the back. Pop out the rear panel to access it.



    Pop off the panel in front of the e-brake to discover the second bolt.



    Way up at the front, there are also two plastic rivets holding it on. These are the opposite of the one on the driver's kick panel. Poke in the center, and the rivets will just about fall out on their own.



    Once the shift knob is unscrewed (for a manual; I don't know what's different for automatics), the center console can be lifted off. Mine was still connected by the USB wire, though. I struggled to release the USB plug from the surround it's fastened to. Maybe I was just being dumb, but I found it much easier to release the whole surround instead.


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    Hubcap Enthusiast Scratchpaddy's Avatar
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    Carpet

    Just about everything you need to do to remove the carpet has been done by now.

    There are plastic hard stops for the clutch and gas pedal, which can be unscrewed by hand.



    All that's left is to take the things that want to snag the carpet, like the seat wires and the driver's floor mat hooks, and tuck them under.



    Now you're free to pull the carpet out of the door of your choice. I pulled it right out the back.


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    Hubcap Enthusiast Scratchpaddy's Avatar
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    Headliner

    If you're looking at this post just for the headliner, removing the top plastic trim pieces as covered earlier in the thread is necessary before what follows here.

    It's finally time to use that Phillips head screwdriver! Pop open the two little plastic flaps on the oh-$&%# handles to reveal two screws. There are also two more screws on each sun visor.



    The oh-$&%# handles just come off, but the sun visors have to be pulled down and back just so to get them off. Here's the part you can't see when they mysteriously won't come off.



    The sun shade hooks won't give up without a fight unless you come at them from both sides at once. Poke in there with something thin and flat and pull down at the same time, and they come out fairly easily.



    These are the tabs holding it in that you want to poke to release it.



    The dome light and airbag console are only very gently clipped into the roof. Pull them down to access the electrical plugs, and unplug them.



    Pull down the rubber door gaskets in the places where they rest against the headliner. Now, five plastic christmas-tree rivets are the only thing holding the headliner up. Use a hooked tool to get between the rivet heads and the headliner, then pull, don't pry. The headliner is made of delicate foam and won't take much abuse.



    As soon as you remove the last rivet, the whole thing falls down on your head. Now you have to figure out how to get it out of the car. It takes some careful bending and squeezing to get it out of the hatch. The passenger door may be a better choice, especially without the seats in the way.


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    Wow, great job documenting all this work. Thanks.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.7 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.7 mpg (Imp)


  10. #6
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    What are those white stuff?
    Name:  i-mpqwprP-M.jpg
Views: 3469
Size:  79.2 KB

    Mine just empty like this
    Name:  20190203_115339aaaa.jpg
Views: 3893
Size:  95.9 KB

  11. #7
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    Airbags

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 automatic: 40.4 mpg (US) ... 17.2 km/L ... 5.8 L/100 km ... 48.5 mpg (Imp)


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    Wow! Quality post/thread!! Thanks a bunch!

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 43.4 mpg (US) ... 18.5 km/L ... 5.4 L/100 km ... 52.1 mpg (Imp)


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    Quote Originally Posted by inuvik View Post
    Airbags
    Oh...we only have two airbags in Indonesia, in front of driver and passenger.

  15. #10
    Just A Mirage!
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    Fantastic write-up! Also, your photography is great. At some point I'll be tackling this myself, it's a little more involved than when I did my 2-door ranger with vinyl flooring


        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2017 Mirage GT 1.2 automatic: 37.5 mpg (US) ... 15.9 km/L ... 6.3 L/100 km ... 45.0 mpg (Imp)


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