Didn't get as far as i wanted to last night.
Impacted off the axel nuts as recommended above
unbolted the top of the spindles from the strut-19mm
pulled the axel stubs out of the spindles
disconnected wiring harness from trans
drain trans fluid-25mm
popped the Axels out with a prybar
removed starter cover-10mm
removed starter (held in with 2 bolts into bell housing)-12mm
removed lower trans mount-19mm
removed catalytic converter heat shield (attached to rear of engine block) 2 bolts, 1-12mm, 1-15mm
removed 2 remaining bell housing bolts that can be accessed from below-12mm
removed battery-10mm and battery tray-12mm
removed shift linkage with a prybar
removed rubber intake tube and throttle body-10mm
removed 3 bell housing bolts from across top of trans-12mm
Whats left to drop the trans:
1 bell housing bolt buried under the intake- may have to remove the intake to get to it
upper trans mount
ground wire attached to rear of trans
Still waiting on rear main seal and pilot bearing from Mitsu dealer. They said yesterday when i ordered them, now saying tomorrow.
These are pretty simple. It's nice that all you need is a 10,12,14mm/9/16",17mm,and 19mm/3/4" to do most repairs on these things. I'm not trying to be a meany head but are you sure there was a 15mm? I made a mistake once myself and will never live it down.
You shouldn't need to remove the intake(if cvt bellhousings are the same?) Try a 12mm box end wrench,with handle angled towards rad or swivel head ratchet to get to the one bolt that threads into the transmission on the front.
miss if they will have what you need when you get there.
The full service LKQ in my area stocks parts and has them already on the shelf. You call them, tell them what you want and they can instantly tell you the price and if it is in stock. They can even tell you the mileage of the car it was pulled from. If it isnít in stock, you simply order it on the phone and pick it up a few days later.
When I was younger I only went to the self service junk yards. Iím getting older and lazy so unless Iím trying to get a random part for a custom project, I simply call the full service LKQ and order though them. Itís worth it to pay a few dollars extra than to go on a wild goose chase at the self serve yard.
Dirk Diggler (09-20-2019)
I didn't have to remove the intake. I was able to get a 12mm gear wrench on it after i removed the throttle body.
the only unusual tool i needed for the entire removal was an inverted torx to remove the bolts holding on the pressure plate.
Last edited by dustyb; 09-20-2019 at 01:41 PM.
Well...suffice to say last night didn't go quite as planned.
Found a used trans with 21k miles for $250 at the same place that i got the flywheel. Going to pick it up on my lunch break today.
Note how the input shaft isn't quite centered in the release bearing. Spinning the input shaft when in neutral produced some very unhealthy sounds and i knew i was in trouble. The internal bearing that supports the end of the input shaft was destroyed. Ball bearings and gear chunks fell all over the place when i split the case.
Last edited by dustyb; 09-20-2019 at 02:22 PM.
At least now you know why it was leaking.
Photos aren't showing. But... was your oil leak from the trans, or is the rear main seal also leaking?
Simplify and add lightness.
That is yet to be determined. When i drained the trans oil it looked like chocolate milk (first indicator of major issues) but it was completely full . As much as its been leaking the trans fluid should have been pretty low and it looked pretty dry around the input shaft. I haven't removed the flywheel yet to get a look at the oil seal yet. I got too busy dissecting the trans to survey the carnage once it was on the ground.
Bad pilot bearing did all of that? Yikes...