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Thread: Big teardown tonight. clutch /rear main seal

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    You got links to said used parts? I could use em.
    Found my stuff at local junkyards.



  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MightyMirageMpg View Post
    The trans is super easy too pull.
    There's 2 bolts that are difficult to get to. otherwise its all cake

    Few bits of advice,

    the shifter linkage just "pops" off with a pry bar and be sure to put it back on right (it crosses over itself in an unnatural way)

    The axles are really hard to pop out. Use a pry bar or something.

    Just impact off the Axel nuts. Don't waste time trying to unpeen them
    All really good tips. Thank you. I would have wasted lots of time looking for some sort of retainer on the shift linkage.

    Didn't get as far as i wanted to last night.
    disconnect battery-10mm
    Removed Wheels
    Impacted off the axel nuts as recommended above
    unbolted the top of the spindles from the strut-19mm
    pulled the axel stubs out of the spindles
    disconnected wiring harness from trans
    drain trans fluid-25mm
    popped the Axels out with a prybar
    removed starter cover-10mm
    disconnected starter-12mm
    removed starter (held in with 2 bolts into bell housing)-12mm
    removed lower trans mount-19mm
    removed catalytic converter heat shield (attached to rear of engine block) 2 bolts, 1-12mm, 1-15mm
    removed 2 remaining bell housing bolts that can be accessed from below-12mm
    removed battery-10mm and battery tray-12mm
    removed shift linkage with a prybar
    removed rubber intake tube and throttle body-10mm
    removed 3 bell housing bolts from across top of trans-12mm

    Whats left to drop the trans:
    1 bell housing bolt buried under the intake- may have to remove the intake to get to it
    upper trans mount
    clutch cable
    ground wire attached to rear of trans

    Still waiting on rear main seal and pilot bearing from Mitsu dealer. They said yesterday when i ordered them, now saying tomorrow.

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  4. #23
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    These are pretty simple. It's nice that all you need is a 10,12,14mm/9/16",17mm,and 19mm/3/4" to do most repairs on these things. I'm not trying to be a meany head but are you sure there was a 15mm? I made a mistake once myself and will never live it down.

    You shouldn't need to remove the intake(if cvt bellhousings are the same?) Try a 12mm box end wrench,with handle angled towards rad or swivel head ratchet to get to the one bolt that threads into the transmission on the front.
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  5. #24
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyb View Post
    Yeah a new AC compressor is about $800 too.
    After a week of vacation (car wasn't driven) i tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. The alternator was frozen solid.
    I got a 7k mile alternator for $50 that looks like new, and i can get a good low mileage Ac compressor for less than $100 with a warranty. I'm finding that OEM parts are insanely expensive but used parts are dirt cheap, presumably because they're low demand.

    Living in the salt belt of western PA hasn't helped. The body still looks good but the amount of corrosion under the hood is alarming.
    When you go to these junkyards to get these parts are you expected to pull them out yourself or will they do it for you?

  6. #25
    Senior Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    When you go to these junkyards to get these parts are you expected to pull them out yourself or will they do it for you?
    That depends on the junk yard. LKQ has two junk yards in my area. One is self service where you have to pull your own parts and itís cheaper because of this. Parts arenít inventoried so itís really hit or
    miss if they will have what you need when you get there.

    The full service LKQ in my area stocks parts and has them already on the shelf. You call them, tell them what you want and they can instantly tell you the price and if it is in stock. They can even tell you the mileage of the car it was pulled from. If it isnít in stock, you simply order it on the phone and pick it up a few days later.

    When I was younger I only went to the self service junk yards. Iím getting older and lazy so unless Iím trying to get a random part for a custom project, I simply call the full service LKQ and order though them. Itís worth it to pay a few dollars extra than to go on a wild goose chase at the self serve yard.

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  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    These are pretty simple. It's nice that all you need is a 10,12,14mm/9/16",17mm,and 19mm/3/4" to do most repairs on these things. I'm not trying to be a meany head but are you sure there was a 15mm? I made a mistake once myself and will never live it down.

    You shouldn't need to remove the intake(if cvt bellhousings are the same?) Try a 12mm box end wrench,with handle angled towards rad or swivel head ratchet to get to the one bolt that threads into the transmission on the front.
    Yes it was in fact a 15mm. I checked last night.
    I didn't have to remove the intake. I was able to get a 12mm gear wrench on it after i removed the throttle body.
    the only unusual tool i needed for the entire removal was an inverted torx to remove the bolts holding on the pressure plate.
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    Last edited by dustyb; 09-20-2019 at 01:41 PM.

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  10. #27
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    Well...suffice to say last night didn't go quite as planned.
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    Found a used trans with 21k miles for $250 at the same place that i got the flywheel. Going to pick it up on my lunch break today.

    Note how the input shaft isn't quite centered in the release bearing. Spinning the input shaft when in neutral produced some very unhealthy sounds and i knew i was in trouble. The internal bearing that supports the end of the input shaft was destroyed. Ball bearings and gear chunks fell all over the place when i split the case.
    Last edited by dustyb; 09-20-2019 at 02:22 PM.

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  12. #28
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    At least now you know why it was leaking.

    Photos aren't showing. But... was your oil leak from the trans, or is the rear main seal also leaking?
    Simplify and add lightness.

  13. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren View Post
    At least now you know why it was leaking.

    Photos aren't showing. But... was your oil leak from the trans, or is the rear main seal also leaking?
    Think i fixed the pics.

    That is yet to be determined. When i drained the trans oil it looked like chocolate milk (first indicator of major issues) but it was completely full . As much as its been leaking the trans fluid should have been pretty low and it looked pretty dry around the input shaft. I haven't removed the flywheel yet to get a look at the oil seal yet. I got too busy dissecting the trans to survey the carnage once it was on the ground.

  14. #30
    Senior Member Cobrajet's Avatar
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    Bad pilot bearing did all of that? Yikes...



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