Big teardown tonight. clutch /rear main seal

[Loren]

The clutch disk is 190mm. 7.5"

It's a cute little thing.

[MightyMirageMpg]

The trans is super easy too pull.
There's 2 bolts that are difficult to get to. otherwise its all cake

Few bits of advice,

the shifter linkage just "pops" off with a pry bar and be sure to put it back on right (it crosses over itself in an unnatural way)

The axles are really hard to pop out. Use a pry bar or something.

Just impact off the Axel nuts. Don't waste time trying to unpeen them

[Dirk Diggler]

I was really surprised how small the friction disc is. Attachment 15464

And yes, I'm very happy to have gotten to 120K with how I drive.

this is what i dug out of my bell housingAttachment 15465

I went out on my lunch break and got a good low mileage flywheel for $25. I going to make a clean up pass on it with the brake lathe prior to install. I suspect mine is trashed from the noises its been making. But hey, I drove it to work today.

Clutch is one thing, but an alternator and an AC compressor both going out at 120k miles is bs. How much did those repairs set you back?

[Dirk Diggler]

Its like 800 bucks for a new OEM Mitsu alternator?!?

[Fummins]

Its like 800 bucks for a new OEM Mitsu alternator?!?

Hug a tree, buy used stuff.
Our high mileage car still has the original alternator and ac compressor. Other than the normal maintenance I've had to change the cvt(obviously), battery, back brakes,rad after it had a pin hole, front catalytic converter, and I think I changed the starter?

Holy crap that's a tiny clutch disc, Looks smaller than the one from my 83 sj410(that I have no picture or size to compare to()!

[dustyb]

Its like 800 bucks for a new OEM Mitsu alternator?!?

Yeah a new AC compressor is about $800 too.
After a week of vacation (car wasn't driven) i tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. The alternator was frozen solid.
I got a 7k mile alternator for $50 that looks like new, and i can get a good low mileage Ac compressor for less than $100 with a warranty. I'm finding that OEM parts are insanely expensive but used parts are dirt cheap, presumably because they're low demand.

Living in the salt belt of western PA hasn't helped. The body still looks good but the amount of corrosion under the hood is alarming.

[Dirk Diggler]

Yeah a new AC compressor is about $800 too.
After a week of vacation (car wasn't driven) i tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. The alternator was frozen solid.
I got a 7k mile alternator for $50 that looks like new, and i can get a good low mileage Ac compressor for less than $100 with a warranty. I'm finding that OEM parts are insanely expensive but used parts are dirt cheap, presumably because they're low demand.

Living in the salt belt of western PA hasn't helped. The body still looks good but the amount of corrosion under the hood is alarming.

You got links to said used parts? I could use em.

[stevedmc]

You got links to said used parts? I could use em.

https://www.lkqonline.com/

If you have a local LKQ junk yard call them directly. Its cheaper to pickup the stuff in store than to pay online and get "free" shipping.

[Mark]

Its like 800 bucks for a new OEM Mitsu alternator?!?

Alternators & starters can be rebuilt. The last starter I had rebuilt cost me about $105. It was for a late 1970's model Bolens G174 4WD compact diesel tractor made by Iseki. It has a Mitsubishi engine. Bolens hasn't sold tractors like these in the States for decades. Local guy had no problem rebuilding that starter. They can pretty much rebuild anything.

The same goes for my 1985 Honda TRX250 Fourtrax. It cost me about $60 to have the starter rebuilt. Even if I had taken it to the Honda dealership, they would have rebuilt the starter rather than replace it. My prices are from a few years ago, but it's still way cheaper to go this route.

I would rather have my own starter or alternator rebuilt than take a chance on a used one. I wouldn't buy a new starter or alternator unless someone who rebuilds them for living told me to do so!

[Eggman]

Here's what I found when I took mine apart at 40k miles. I didn't remove it for a clutch problem. I had to replace the engine (long story, but it was competition-related, driver error, and wasn't Mitsubishi's fault). But, I did have a clutch "rattle", and as I got into it, I discovered why.

http://drivefast.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3399

Nice write up - recommended reading.