And back to square one with 6 visits to the dealer's shop.. but hopefully they will have it all done at the end of the month.
Christmas is coming, and I need to visit the malls before they get full of people and empty of good presents.
View my fuel log 214 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 41.8 mpg (US) ... 17.8 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.2 mpg (Imp)
Can you keep the evap problem to the other threads? Geezz......
Benwerks, how are you checking for codes? Cheapo generic obdII home gamer code reader that only reads basic codes that cause the engine light to come on or an actual scanner that can read codes that don't throw lights and read wheel speed for each wheel etc... If you have an abs problem there should be a code stored in most cases. I don't recommend just throwing random parts, especially from ebay, at your car until you figure out what's wrong with it. It could be anything from a wheel bearing, brake switch, abs sensor, led bulbs, chinese knock off scan gauge, wiring behind the lh kick panel, wiring around the fuse box, or
i havent bought anything. the code scanmer was a generic scanner from pepboys so im unsure about if it would read the abs codes.
I'd be surprised if the magnetic sender in the bearing was pooched as it takes either high heat, enough that you'd smell something burning from the cabin, or high pressure, and again, you'd have to notice a change like that while in the cabin, to alter magnetic properties of something.
Zero, 2014 ES Plus 5MT, written off but not forgotten.
Zero II, 2014 SE, 5MT, climate She's HOME now!
Shelby AKA "Cute", 2017 ES 5MT, A/C.
Mirage owners look at the world differently than everyone else, but in a better way
We're driving the Beetle of the 21st century, the greatest small car now available!
View my fuel log 2017 Mirage ES PLus 1.2 manual: 39.0 mpg (US) ... 16.6 km/L ... 6.0 L/100 km ... 46.8 mpg (Imp)
Unfortunately most of the cheap code readers are just for generic obdII codes and won't give you abs or anything else you might want to know. It might not hurt just to find a small independent shop that has a decent up to date scan tool to see if they can just see if anything is stored for a reasonable price. Or better yet if you're still under warranty just take it to a stealership and let them fix it.
After reading post#6 again, I'd just take it to the dealer and see if they'll cover it first. If they won't help find out what code is stored. There will be one for the abs and maybe a bunch of other stuff.
It could very well be a corroded connector like I had problems with on a bunch of these cars. Pull the lh kick panel off, there'll be a stack of plugs behind it. The lowest one will likely be corroded. Just the slightest hint of green on any of the wires on these cars will cause the biggest headaches. You'll likely need a mirror or camera to look at the backside of the plug. They usually corrode where the wires enter the connector.
Keep us posted.
the dealership told me its a 2 week wait for a service appointment the last time i went in and i was told my warranty ended at 50k because im the second owner. im not the best with interior work. how would i get the lh kick panel off?
I'm kind of not the best at giving directions but I'll try...It's not too bad to get the kick panel off.
Towards the firewall there's what looks like a plastic bolt with a flat head slot on it, unscrew that,
there is another fastener on the lh side near the middle? Pry the center of the clip out and the outer piece should pull out after.
Pry the door sill away from the kick panel with a pry bar or screwdriver.
Pull the kick panel out.