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Thread: DIY check inner brake pads too!

  1. #21
    You can usually just use your hands to push the piston back on these things if you don’t have any tools.


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  2. #22
    Member iriegnome's Avatar
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    Finally got to changing the second side of my front brakes. When I bought the first side, I didn't realize the second side was as bad. So I only could find a coated rotor to buy (because I needed it right away). Here it is in all its glory. BTW - WOW these are super each brakes to replace.
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  3. #23
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    If the inner pad wears quicker than the outer, it could be the rubber bushing on the lower lock pin has become swollen and thus is preventing the caliper from moving on the lock pins!
    If the the lock pin has ever been lubricated with regular grease, you get a serious problem! Regular grease makes the rubber bushing on the lower lock pin swell in time and thus inhibit any movement between lock pin and caliper.
    The caliper must always be easily movable on the lock pin. If not, the inner brake pad becomes wasted.

    WARNING: Both lock pins should be only LIGHTLY lubricated, and the grease should ONLY be SILICONE grease! Regular mineral oil based grease makes the rubber bushing swell and deforms it to the point no movement is possible, and the inner brake pad then wears out very quickly. It takes about two or three years after adding the wrong sort of grease before it finally becomes destroyed.
    If you have applied regular grease already, I suggest washing it all out thoroughly and very soon with brake cleaner and Q-Tips before applying the proper stuff. If its too late, you will need a set of new lock pins.
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    Last edited by foama; 12-22-2019 at 08:34 AM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by foama View Post
    If the inner pad wears quicker than the outer, it could be the rubber bushing on the lower lock pin has become swollen and thus is preventing the caliper from moving on the lock pins!
    If the the lock pin has ever been lubricated with regular grease, you get a serious problem! Regular grease makes the rubber bushing on the lower lock pin swell in time and thus inhibit any movement between lock pin and caliper.
    The caliper must always be easily movable on the lock pin. If not, the inner brake pad becomes wasted.

    WARNING: Both lock pins should be only LIGHTLY lubricated, and the grease should ONLY be SILICONE grease! Regular mineral oil based grease makes the rubber bushing swell and deforms it to the point no movement is possible, and the inner brake pad then wears out very quickly. It takes about two or three years after adding the wrong sort of grease before it finally becomes destroyed.
    If you have applied regular grease already, I suggest washing it all out thoroughly and very soon with brake cleaner and Q-Tips before applying the proper stuff. If its too late, you will need a set of new lock pins.
    See FSM, section 35A20 and 35A33 Name:  lube.jpg
Views: 363
Size:  16.6 KB
    Good information Foama! I watched someone changing his brakes on a G4 on youtube.com. He was using Auto Zone's Duralast Ceramic brakes, & the box came with a small package of grease that he used to do the job.

    Those of you that have done your own brake replacements - Have you also found a difference in wear between the inner & outer brake pads, or has this been a few isolated cases?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    Good information Foama! I watched someone changing his brakes on a G4 on youtube.com. He was using Auto Zone's Duralast Ceramic brakes, & the box came with a small package of grease that he used to do the job.
    That grease may have been for the backing of the pads. Some folks use special grease for reducing noise. If the pads are properly mounted on our cars, no grease for the backings are needed.

    The silicone grease for the locking pins is a different kind of grease, and only a tiny amount of about 1g (0.035 ounce) is needed to do both sides.

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    Quote Originally Posted by foama View Post
    That grease may have been for the backing of the pads. Some folks use special grease for reducing noise. If the pads are properly mounted on our cars, no grease for the backings are needed.

    The silicone grease for the locking pins is a different kind of grease, and only a tiny amount of about 1g (0.035 ounce) is needed to do both sides.
    "When it comes to brake lubricants, grease is a dirty word. Brake lubricants are specially-formulated products that are not the same as ordinary chassis grease or even multi-purpose grease." May 2, 2013

    You're assuming the wrong grease may be packaged with a new set of brake pads. I would assume the correct grease is package with them. Thus, reading any instructions may be in order.

    Your points are excellent! If someone is taking on a job like this, it's best to do it right!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    "When it comes to brake lubricants, grease is a dirty word. Brake lubricants are specially-formulated products that are not the same as ordinary chassis grease or even multi-purpose grease." May 2, 2013

    You're assuming the wrong grease may be packaged with a new set of brake pads. I would assume the correct grease is package with them. Thus, reading any instructions may be in order.
    True, reading instructions is always OK, though sometimes they seem to be written for three year olds by eight-graders...

    The small envelopes of mineral oil based grease supplied with sets of brake pads are usually for the backs of the pads, though not needed in our cars. That stuff often contains ceramic or metal, such as copper, molybendum, etc.

    The locking pins need a tiny amount of silicone grease, and need to be 100% clean. The tiny boots sealing the pins must also be in order to make the construction waterproof. Silicone grease (thickened silicone oil is usually called silicone grease) is not mineral oil based, and is practically non bio-degradable. Some varieties may contain more than just traces of dioxins.

    Brake lubricant is something totally different. It is used for example to make renewing rubber piston rings within the caliper easier. Putting the piston back inside the caliper is much easier with a bit of brake lubricant, or at least some brake fluid instead. Brake lubricant is practically brake fluid with a gelling agent added, and has little in common with mineral oil based grease other than the fact that it lubricates. It is only used where brake fluid may come in direct contact with it.

    In my opinion renewing brake pads includes cleaning and checking the lock pins, all surfaces touching the pads, and so on. It pays to do it correctly, and in the end, non dragging brakes save a lot of fuel.


    Last edited by foama; 12-23-2019 at 07:10 AM.

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