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Thread: How many miles did you get out of your oem brake pads? I got 126k!

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basic View Post
    Yes I was. Thanks. I have always felt anecdotally that the 5MTs would get considerably better life out of the pads.
    My 2000 Honda CR-V (5-speed manual) had the original brakes @ 154,000 miles when it was rear ended/totaled in 2013. I bought the Honda used in 2004 with 20,000 miles. Most of the mileage was mine, & my brakes were still working better than the guy's brakes that rear ended me.

    I only got about 80,000 miles out of 2011 Forester's (5-speed manual) front brake pads, & rear brake pads went about 7,000-8,000 mile later. I bought the Forester used in 2013 with 15,000 miles on it.

    Brakes still seem fine @ 50,000+ miles on my Mirage.

    I think it's hard to compare brakes, because there's a big difference between city driving verses highway driving. It may have nothing to do with transmissions?


    Last edited by Mark; 06-15-2021 at 02:44 AM.

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    mohammad (04-19-2022)

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    I just rolled 52,500 miles. Changed my oil, rotated my tires, inspected my brakes. I need new pads. 2nd time since I bought the car. 30,000 miles for the first set. 23,000 (almost) for the second set. At least they are easy to do.

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    Eggman (08-18-2021)

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    Quote Originally Posted by iriegnome View Post
    I just rolled 52,500 miles. Changed my oil, rotated my tires, inspected my brakes. I need new pads. 2nd time since I bought the car. 30,000 miles for the first set. 23,000 (almost) for the second set. At least they are easy to do.
    I replaced my 2017 factory front brakes & rotors at 62,088 miles (almost 100,000 km) today. The inner brake pads appeared more worn than the outer ones, and the inside of the rotors also looked really worn. They probably would have lasted for a bit more, but they have sounded sort of nasty at times lately.

    I have a couple long trips coming up in the month or so, & I just decided to take care of them sooner rather than later. The rotors were really rusted on. A metric bolt that fit into the two threaded holes of the rotor helped free it. Outside of the 12 mm socket for doing that, all that was needed was a 14 mm box end wrench (for caliper bolts), large flat ended screwdriver, small wire brush, lug nut wrench (13/16") to remove the tires. Car jack, stands, and a rubber bungee (to hold loose caliber).

    I sort of just decided to take care of this & went with was in stock nearby. I used Auto Zone Duralast Gold Ceramic Brake Pads DG1731 (their mid grade brake pads for $29.99). They didn't have their Duralast brake rotors in stock. So I bought a pair of BrakeBest Rotors from O'Reilly Auto Parts. They were $42.99 at each place. Thus, brake pads & rotors were approximately $116 total. The two stores were less than a mile from each other.

    I know cheaper options exist, but some of rockauto.com rotors have a 3,000/90-day warranty. The ones I used have a 2-year warranty. I had time to do this today. So I went with parts that I could get locally. I like supporting local auto stores & I was glad to see these parts in stock.

    Other items used - Brake fluid cleaner was used to clean the oil residue off of the new rotors. Used some anti-seige lubricant for some of various contact points & brake silicone lubricant for the caliper pins/bolts. Used my air compressor to blow things clean after hitting areas with a small wire brush.

    For anyone interested in doing this yourself for the first time, I found these two clips to be the most helpful -

    Our one & only Mohammad B has a nice clip on You Tube -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQ3Wi4_j1fI

    I also watched one done by ChrisFix -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lU6OKQxSg8U&t=8s

    The new parts fit perfectly!

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    I'm 99% sure mine are stock and I'm currently at 74k. Bought it at 30k. I'm going to replace them before I roast the calipers, right after I change the CVT fluid and filters next week. I noticed the other day that the sides of the pads are cracking, but they drive 100% fine!

    The goal is to replace them and wonder for the rest of my life if they really needed it. That's better than not replacing them and having to tow it for 3x the money, or worse.

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    Basic (04-19-2022)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Princess_Bishi View Post
    I'm 99% sure mine are stock and I'm currently at 74k. Bought it at 30k. I'm going to replace them before I roast the calipers, right after I change the CVT fluid and filters next week. I noticed the other day that the sides of the pads are cracking, but they drive 100% fine!

    The goal is to replace them and wonder for the rest of my life if they really needed it. That's better than not replacing them and having to tow it for 3x the money, or worse.
    In all honesty, I felt my rotors (especially the inside of them) were in worse shape than the brake pads themselves. Don't get me wrong, the pads were worn down, but they still had some life to them. I bought the parts and felt motivated. It wasn't that hard to do.


    I had a 2000 Honda CR-V with 13 year old factory brakes at 154,000 miles. It can really vary from vehicle to vehicle.

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    55000 KM and the rotors are rotten and look like rusted junk. inner pad is right down to almost nothing outer pad is 5mm+ left.
    both sides exactly the same. VERY disappointing. i hit the rotor with a hammer and a large chunk fell off..

    the rears look hardly used maybe 25% gone both sides are the same. some brake dust and very little wear on the drums.

    and i always brake hard backing up to get the brakes to adjust themselves. and the hub was snug but not crazy tight to get on and off. so i have no idea other then i drive a lot a big hills which is where most of my heavy braking is
    and i was parked for winter and the rotors seemed to rust away.

    for the record i have always been happy with my braking on my car.. but looking at the lack of wear on the rear, i have to wonder.
    Last edited by nutpantz; 06-01-2022 at 07:27 PM.

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    Mark (06-01-2022)

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    Damn that salt...

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.4 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.9 mpg (Imp)


  12. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7milesout View Post
    Damn that salt...
    the car was almost never driven in winter. and i washed the brakes and under carriage ASAP if i was ever caught in snow in the mirage. i have a jeep for snow, because the city never plows my street and the jeep is the only thing that will get around. i never even wash the jeep and never had an issue with brakes like this before with any vehicle i have ever owned.

  13. #49
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    Damn that ... cheap parts, lack of corrosion coatings, etc.


        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.4 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.9 mpg (Imp)


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