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Thread: Anyone experienced any "soft" or delayed engagement on CVT?

  1. #11
    Member bosbik's Avatar
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    Ok.. I can confirm that my shifter cable bushing is shot.. It is completely gone (see video).

    Since i was so tired from getting home from work and had a heck of a time removing the center console because of a usb module that is stuck i decided to put on a "bandaid" on the cable. I do have a spare shift cable and will do the install on the weekend as I am pooped.

    Busted bushing


    After makeshift temp rubber bushing made of an old bike inner tube



    Last edited by bosbik; 01-21-2020 at 01:54 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    So are you saying you just had an issue with the shifter not feeling right or the actual transmission wouldn't work properly?
    Quote Originally Posted by fred101 View Post
    Pardon me Mr. Fummins

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 35.1 mpg (US) ... 14.9 km/L ... 6.7 L/100 km ... 42.1 mpg (Imp)


  3. #13
    Member bosbik's Avatar
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    It would be flaky.. When I go N to D it would either not shift or I would have to shake the shift knob a bit to get it to engage. Samething goes for N to Reverse.

    So did a bit of reading and it seems most if not all vehicles will experience this at some point in time since a bushing and a plastic one at that wont last. Mine completely disappeared

  4. #14
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Weird, I work on a fleet of with 30-40 Mirages and have yet to see that one yet. These cars seem to have different problems across the world.
    Quote Originally Posted by fred101 View Post
    Pardon me Mr. Fummins

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 35.1 mpg (US) ... 14.9 km/L ... 6.7 L/100 km ... 42.1 mpg (Imp)


  5. #15
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bosbik View Post
    It would be flaky.. When I go N to D it would either not shift or I would have to shake the shift knob a bit to get it to engage. Samething goes for N to Reverse.

    So did a bit of reading and it seems most if not all vehicles will experience this at some point in time since a bushing and a plastic one at that wont last. Mine completely disappeared
    Man I guess shifting the cvt like a 5speed isnt ideal after all. I was doing the whole shift to N at a stop light or shift to N downhill and coasting to a stop. I thought it would lessen the wear n year of the CVT but if its going to wear out that bearing prematurely I might have to reassess.

  6. #16
    Member bosbik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    Man I guess shifting the cvt like a 5speed isnt ideal after all. I was doing the whole shift to N at a stop light or shift to N downhill and coasting to a stop. I thought it would lessen the wear n year of the CVT but if its going to wear out that bearing prematurely I might have to reassess.
    Yeah my thoughts exactly.. I stopped shifting to N years ago on a stop.

    I am not thinking of having some bushings 3D printed so I can have them handy incase something like this happens again.. Just pop one in and go about my day.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Still, I’m surprised I’ve never ran into this one. I figured one of the mirages driven like a rented mule would have the same problem but issue by now but nope lol

    That’s on the list of things to look for but near the bottom as far as concerns go. There are handful of cars needing new drivers seats. I don’t know how the foam inner bolster on the seat back gets destroyed so your back rests on the metal frame.
    Quote Originally Posted by fred101 View Post
    Pardon me Mr. Fummins

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 35.1 mpg (US) ... 14.9 km/L ... 6.7 L/100 km ... 42.1 mpg (Imp)


  8. #18
    Member highwire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    Man I guess shifting the cvt like a 5speed isnt ideal after all. I was doing the whole shift to N at a stop light or shift to N downhill and coasting to a stop. I thought it would lessen the wear n year of the CVT but if its going to wear out that bearing prematurely I might have to reassess.
    https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TEC...RVIEW/nas.html

    I didn't realize that CVTs in stop already are in neutral with a set of conditions, like turn signal blinkers being on:
    "Idle neutral control is started when all of the following conditions are fulfilled. However, during idle neutral control, idle neutral control is stopped when any of the following conditions is not met.

    Driving environment: Flat road or road with mild grade

    Selector lever position: *D* position

    Vehicle speed: 0 km/h (0 MPH)

    Accelerator pedal position: 0.0/8

    Brake pedal: Depressed

    Engine speed: Idle

    Turn signal lamp/hazard signal lamp: Not activated

    Idle neutral control stops or is prohibited when the TCM and ECM detect that the vehicle is in one of the following conditions.

    - Engine coolant temperature and CVT fluid temperature are the specified temperature or more, or the specified temperature or less.

    - When a transaxle malfunction occurs.

    - When the vehicle detects DTC and is in the fail-safe mode.

    - When idle speed increases due to heavy electric load*.

    *: When any one of rear window defogger switch, A/C switch, headlamp, fog lamp is turned ON or when the steering wheel is operated."

    https://www.atsg.us/atsg/blog/alookatthecvt-7/

    For me, the keeping the car in D mode for 99.99% of my trip (or 100% in normal situations) is one less button/switch I need to worry about, so the fuel savings are negligible to the safety benefits compared to being distracted or mistakenly changing to the wrong gear/mode or getting it jammed.

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  10. #19
    Member bosbik's Avatar
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    ok so since i am feeling better after being sick for a few days here is how I installed the new cable if anyone is interested.

    the center console panel or whatver its called needs to be be removed. you will need a 10mm socket with a slim or long extender. here are pics of the bolt locations. one is in the rear just flick the cover off and the other is near the handbrake lever. the one near the lever is covered so you will need to remove the black connector assembly (in the pic).

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    the white connector will also need to be removed. remove the wire connected to it then push out the fixed end from the bottom gently and it should pop out. once that is done remove the pins on each side of the front end. push in the center of the pins until it locks into place then pull out.

    now the hardest part for me was removing the module connected to a USB jack right next to the key slot. the cable is too short so I had to remove the whole assembly for it. but before removing it you have to remove the wiring connecting the key slot. here is the connector. you just have to find the latch push it in and pull gently.

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    here is the module removed. i just detached the clips underneath and wiggled it out of the port.

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    now that is done the grommet should be visble when you remove all the carpet and foam fillers. the grommet is bolted on by 2 12mm bolts. remove those.

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    now remove the cable from the guide clip and the shifter interface, the part that has the bushing.

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    pop the hood, remove the battery and you will see the cable mounts:

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    Now unbolt the cable from the tranny arm. You will have to push the arm all the way to the back and support it witj your arm while you unbolt it. Now the hard part is the first retainer clip. The latches behind it appear to get caught. You will need to push them out if it gets caught while pulling the cable out.

    Here is a pic of the clip. The 2 small vertical nubs are the clips that get caught
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    There is another down below but will be easier to remove. Once all of those are undone pull out the cable from the cabin and route through from the cabin to the engine bay. No need to lift the car.

    What i did is to grease all the bolts plus the clip i described above.
    Now this is not a plug and play cable you will have to tune shifting by moving the retainer bolt on the tranny interface. You will have to have a buddy to shift for you to check if there is enough tension on tje cable to make it chage mode properly.

    Here is a pic of the bolt i am talking about

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    Now all of that is done put everything back and drive


    Last edited by bosbik; 01-26-2020 at 01:28 PM.

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    Eggman (01-26-2020),inuvik (01-26-2020)

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