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Thread: No response to gas pedal

  1. #11
    Moderator inuvik's Avatar
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    Do you know if the wiring under the drivers left foot was checked or replaced due to the recall? These cars are finicky about wiring issues and we’ve seen a few mysterious problems due to corroded wiring. Since you live in Indiana according to your profile I bet they salt the roads there. If it has been done it still wouldn’t hurt to check. Fummins has dealt with this problem in the fleet he maintains. Just a thought


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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 automatic: 40.4 mpg (US) ... 17.2 km/L ... 5.8 L/100 km ... 48.5 mpg (Imp)


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    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Did you do the CVT fluid change at a dealership, private mechanic, or yourself? If your saying the problem maybe happened right after that, Id make some calls. You drove it for like a month afterwards right? No flashing indicator of "D" is a good sign it might not be your CVT. That indicator is supposed to be rock solid in warning you its your transmission.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Only at 140k miles?!? If it is the CVT (God I hope not) you got options on outsourcing a used one. 2015 are interchangeable with 2017 and perhaps even to 2020? Dont feel like you got to $5k to get a brand new one installed. They can be had for $750 and under 50k miles online. Probably cost you another thousand in labor, I had a shop quote me that price when I was just curious and calling around. Fummins, would you say the CVT7 is easier or harder to replace than a traditional automatic?
    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Same as a regular automatic, unplug the sensors and crap, shifter cable, pull axles, torque convertor bolts, bellhousing bolts, etc.....The only real difference I found was these cars have the fluid cooler right on the transmission rather than inside or ahead of the rad. No magic voodoo 3rd level master magician training needed to replace one.
    Thanks! If it does turn out to be the cvt, I'd be willing to give it a go, and it's always good to have options!

    Things that keep me hopeful it's not the cvt are:

    *Not throwing any codes and gear indicator isn't blinking
    *I can be getting no response from the gas pedal, turn car off & back on and car drives normal, as if something was reset. This is what makes me think like ECU or gas pedal sensor, or something along those lines?
    *Can take short drives around town without any issues. The symptoms I described before these more major ones developed, always happened at approx 15 miles into my 40 mile commute, and then wouldn't happen again for the rest of that trip. If it's the transmission, I would't think it would have been so "consistent"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    Did you do the CVT fluid change at a dealership, private mechanic, or yourself? If your saying the problem maybe happened right after that, Id make some calls. You drove it for like a month afterwards right? No flashing indicator of "D" is a good sign it might not be your CVT. That indicator is supposed to be rock solid in warning you its your transmission.
    Did it myself, and no flashing D

  6. #15
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cwick View Post
    Did it myself, and no flashing D
    Oh boy lol. How often you do your cvt fluid changes? Every 30k miles religiously? Did you use universal CVT fluid or OEM? Did you ever do the 2 filters change every 60k miles? Im just trying to troubleshoot info for the guys on here that are actual professionals (Fummins, Top Fuel, etc.)

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    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    If it is your CVT, god forbid, then make sure you got a good mechanic lined up and willing to install a used CVT, theyre harder to find than you think. As far getting a used unit shipped, I have no idea how that works? You buy it online and have them ship it to a mechanic, or let the mech handle that? Im curious about the process.

  8. #17
    I'M ESSENTIAL Fummins's Avatar
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    What inuvik said... plus there’s another connector under the driver seat I’ve had corrosion at too. It looked like a capped off connector.

    I read your original post again and now it sounds similar to a Nissan NV200 the dealer and I struggled with. Driver was driving down the highway and out of the blue had no throttle response. They just pulled over turned it off and restarted then carried on. I did get a stored code for throttle position I believe? Took it to the dealer, they couldn’t get it to act up. A week later it did it again, took to dealer they changed the throttle body. Was running good for exactly a year, then exact same problem re appeared. Becoming more frequent everyday, took to dealer and they kept it for a month or two. In the end they replaced the entire wiring harness from the throttle body to the ecm.

    It wouldn’t hurt to take a peek at the throttle Body connector. It’s weird that it will only rev when it’s not in gear. More so that you aren’t getting a code.
    My mom says I'm cool

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 35.5 mpg (US) ... 15.1 km/L ... 6.6 L/100 km ... 42.6 mpg (Imp)


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    Oh boy lol. How often you do your cvt fluid changes? Every 30k miles religiously? Did you use universal CVT fluid or OEM? Did you ever do the 2 filters change every 60k miles? Im just trying to troubleshoot info for the guys on here that are actual professionals (Fummins, Top Fuel, etc.)
    I followed maintenance schedule 2, as at least 90% of the miles are highway and I have always babied it when I drive. Schedule 2 doesn't include a cvt fluid change. I would check the level and look at color periodically, and it was always fine. It wasn't until I found this forum and read about the cvt issues that I decided to change it. I used oem Mitsubishi j4 and followed the instructions from Mitsubishi that someone had graciously posted on here. The fluid wasn't black, but wasn't light brown either. I also changed the external paper filter and o-ring. This was at about 130k miles. Looking back I wish I had at least done it at 60k and 120k, however, I'm still leaning toward this not being a transmission issue. If it is, life lesson learned the hard way.

  10. #19
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cwick View Post
    I followed maintenance schedule 2, as at least 90% of the miles are highway and I have always babied it when I drive. Schedule 2 doesn't include a cvt fluid change. I would check the level and look at color periodically, and it was always fine. It wasn't until I found this forum and read about the cvt issues that I decided to change it. I used oem Mitsubishi j4 and followed the instructions from Mitsubishi that someone had graciously posted on here. The fluid wasn't black, but wasn't light brown either. I also changed the external paper filter and o-ring. This was at about 130k miles. Looking back I wish I had at least done it at 60k and 120k, however, I'm still leaning toward this not being a transmission issue. If it is, life lesson learned the hard way.
    Dont feel too bad probably 90% of CVT owners across all manufacturers, dont even know what a CVT is or that it requires more diligent maintenance. Your probably right though, its not the CVT, but an electrical gremlin. Just the fact Fummins/Top Fuel heard your symptoms and didnt immediately diagnose transmission issues is a good sign too!

  11. #20
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    What inuvik said... plus there’s another connector under the driver seat I’ve had corrosion at too. It looked like a capped off connector.

    I read your original post again and now it sounds similar to a Nissan NV200 the dealer and I struggled with. Driver was driving down the highway and out of the blue had no throttle response. They just pulled over turned it off and restarted then carried on. I did get a stored code for throttle position I believe? Took it to the dealer, they couldn’t get it to act up. A week later it did it again, took to dealer they changed the throttle body. Was running good for exactly a year, then exact same problem re appeared. Becoming more frequent everyday, took to dealer and they kept it for a month or two. In the end they replaced the entire wiring harness from the throttle body to the ecm.

    It wouldn’t hurt to take a peek at the throttle Body connector. It’s weird that it will only rev when it’s not in gear. More so that you aren’t getting a code.
    Is that what that exposed yellow cord is under our seats?



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