Bent Valves, Need help picking a new engine.

[AssassinTime14]

I bent the valves in my mirage recently while trying to install a set of the Mitsusport Racing Cams from thailand.
Unfortunately during the first installation the exhaust camshaft sprocket went on crooked, went to crank it and the chain popped. I've spent the last week or 2 resetting the timing chain, which was a lot of tearing the engine apart. I got everything lined up and reassembled in like 2 days. Still didn't start, No compression. Turns out when the chain popped, the pistons didn't lol. Also! The new cams have a larger base circle so they valves weren't closing anyways, the valves need new tappets for the new cams. Swapped in the stock cams, still no compression, asked a few mechanics and they suggested bent valves. I believe replacing the whole engine might be the cheapest route, rather than paying someone to fix the valve issue.

So I've got a few questions to ask

#1 How difficult is it to replace the engine?

#2 I've got a 5 speed transmission, so can a AT engine mate to my manual?

#3 I would still like to have the new cams put in eventually, so I don't think the engines with the roller cams will work? The racing cams are meant for the flat tappet valve type. Also do you guys think Mitsubishi would install my new cams for me after I replace my engine? Also the 2014-16 Engine would work as well right? there's no real difference if I recall.

#4 I need help picking a junked engine, I've found a few within driving distance.

Option #1





This one is a bit sketchy, a lot of possible front damage. Price: I have to give them a call later Mileage:14k
Year:2017 Trans: AT
Option#2





Better condition, Price: call, Mileage: 34k, 2017, Auto

Option #3





Might be in good enough condition, Price: 450$, Mileage: 17k, 2017, auto

Option #4





Price 450$, Mileage: 17k, 2017, auto

Option #5







Price 450$, Mileage: 39k, 2017, auto

Option #6



Price: call, Mileage: 72k, abit higher than the 32k on mine, 2015, auto

Option #7



Price: 600$ Mileage: 27k, 2015, manual

Option#8



Price: call, Mileage: not listed?, 2018, auto

option#9



Price: call, Mileage: 47k, 2014, auto

Option #10




Price: 450, Mileage 20k, 2018, auto

Option#11



Price: 500, mileage 27k, auto, 2018

Option #12



Price 500$ mileage: 67k, 2015, auto

Thanks for your guy's time, I'd love to hear your advice.

[Loren]

Auto trans doesn't matter other than somewhere in the lineage the Auto versions had roller rockers on both cams vs just one. That may or may not be a factor with your hot camshafts. I'm not sure, but I don't think they changed the cams when they switched to roller rockers. I'm sure you could look that up. If that's the case, maybe your hot cams will work with roller rockers? I'd ask whomever you bought them from.

I put a 2017 auto engine into my 2015 manual. No changes to the ECU or anything else. No problems. 4 more HP. Woohoo!

It's relatively easy to change the engine. I'd say easier than messing with the camshafts and timing chain system. Engine swap is all just simple nuts and bolts.

I'd go ahead and replace the clutch disk while you're in there.

In my case, I was able to preserve the coolant that I drained and reuse it. I did have to remove the AC condenser. I did my best to seal the open pipe immediately, and do the same on the condenser itself. It was out of the car for maybe 48 hours. AC shop assured me that I needed to replace the dryer because I had the system "open" for so long, and the dryer is built into the condenser, which is $$$. I opted to just put it all back together and have the shop do a thorough purge and charge. It's been working fine for about a year and a half so far.

Pick the lowest mileage undamaged engine you can find.

And, as you've already learned, it is very much an interference engine. And the valve stems are extremely thin. There's no forgiveness. You get the valve timing wrong, or over-rev the snot out of it (like I did), you WILL bend valves.

Rather than going to Mitsubishi, I'd consider taking your old engine to a performance shop that's familiar with modern Mitsubishi engines. Have them replace the valves in your old head and install the cams for you. Then swap it in. If it fails for some reason, you've still got your good engine to put back in.

[dspace9]

Loren's idea is a good one, seeing if your engine is salvageable. Otherwise option 12, or a rear ender write off. Those smashed up fronts yikes lol and the engine bay components all possibly mangled up. No thanks. Good luck and let the Forum folks know how it goes

[MirageRally]

I'm with Dspace, those pics make me nervous when driving my car lol...Loren's idea is good. l never mess with an engine but would take it to a performance shop to see if those Thai cams even fit or can be modified...l know engine swaps can be an expensive experience...depending on what you swap and having an extra engine just in case something goes wrong is a good route..l've never worked on engines internally so l'm new to modding...l will usually mod everything but the engine ie: Performance radiator, brakes, suspension, etc...sorry to hear about your troubles and hope everything gets sorted out.

[Mark]

I bent the valves in my mirage recently while trying to install a set of the Mitsusport Racing Cams from thailand.
Unfortunately during the first installation the exhaust camshaft sprocket went on crooked, went to crank it and the chain popped. I've spent the last week or 2 resetting the timing chain, which was a lot of tearing the engine apart. I got everything lined up and reassembled in like 2 days. Still didn't start, No compression. Turns out when the chain popped, the pistons didn't lol. Also! The new cams have a larger base circle so they valves weren't closing anyways, the valves need new tappets for the new cams. Swapped in the stock cams, still no compression, asked a few mechanics and they suggested bent valves. I believe replacing the whole engine might be the cheapest route, rather than paying someone to fix the valve issue.

So I've got a few questions to ask

#1 How difficult is it to replace the engine?

#2 I've got a 5 speed transmission, so can a AT engine mate to my manual?

#3 I would still like to have the new cams put in eventually, so I don't think the engines with the roller cams will work? The racing cams are meant for the flat tappet valve type. Also do you guys think Mitsubishi would install my new cams for me after I replace my engine? Also the 2014-16 Engine would work as well right? there's no real difference if I recall.

#4 I need help picking a junked engine, I've found a few within driving distance.

Thanks for your guy's time, I'd love to hear your advice.

I see in your garage entry that your original engine was replaced @ 6,800 miles. Don't you have some experience with an engine replacement already? Or maybe your 2nd engine was part of a warranty claim?

Maybe your third engine will be the charm!

[Cobrajet]

I agree with everything Loren said.

I would personally avoid an engine out of a car with severe front end damage, as you just don't know what may have been done to the motor until you go to put it in. There may be a crack or something somewhere that you don't see until the motor is in the car and running. I thought about buying a really cheap spare engine for my 2015 when a 2018 ES manual magically appeared at my local PNP. The car had been hit HARD in the front. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the mounting bosses for one of the motor mounts had been broken off of the block. The front of the car is designed to crumple and fold to protect you, not the engine.

I don't see this as being a difficult engine to replace, but have you considered just replacing the head? You could probably get a low mile head pretty cheap off of one of those engines if the bottom end of the motor has been damage by an accident.

When doing any work related to the timing chain/timing belt, I like to turn the engine over by hand when I am done just to make sure I don't slam any valves when I start it up. If you do it by hand you will be able to correct any issues before there is enough torque going through the motor to bend any valves or do any damage.

[Fummins]

I didn't read most of the comments cause that's too hard..
If I were cheap, I'd pull the head if nothing it too trashed replace the bent valve and put it back together with stock cams. Drive it.
If it's not worth fixing get the cheapest used engine you can find. Unless you're buying from some craigslist seller then I wouldn't worry about buying one that was hit by a train and rolled down a mountain. Unless you pay cash and didn't get a receipt. Most reputable wreckers try not to sell broken parts and take a look after something is pulled and shipping it out. Though **** happens..

[AssassinTime14]

Hey guys I got my engine replaced for 1034$ in labor, 540$ for an engine, and 100ish for a new clutch, and 60-70$ for all new fluids. Car runs great. So does anyone want to buy the cams for like 400$ + shipping? I believe they would work fine, as long as you get the valve clearences right along with proper (or professional) Installation.

[daleWV]

Auto trans doesn't matter other than somewhere in the lineage the Auto versions had roller rockers on both cams vs just one. That may or may not be a factor with your hot camshafts. I'm not sure, but I don't think they changed the cams when they switched to roller rockers. I'm sure you could look that up. If that's the case, maybe your hot cams will work with roller rockers? I'd ask whomever you bought them from.

Just a small FYI, on these engines the roller is on the cam lobe, not on the lifter. There are no "roller rockers". There is at least one thread on the forum where this is discussed and there are illustrations of the cams with the rollers built in the lobes. Kinda weird setup but it seems to work.

[AssassinTime14]

My 2017 manual was supposed to have a roller cam on the exhaust only but didn't. The new 2018 auto I have in it does. These preformance cams only have regular cams without rollers, as they were designed for 2015 models originally.