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Thread: brake caliper - need some suggestions

  1. #31
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    A word about the pins:

    They need very little grease, and the grease must be silicone grease!
    Do not use regular grease, because the tiny rubber ring around the top pin will expand over a few months and effectively block any possible movement.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Nice catch. I wonder what the difference is? Unless something is different where the brake line bolts on, I'd still use 17+ if installing both. Piston size may be off or they felt like being ford and just update the part number to screw with people.
    IF you google the two part numbers you can see that this is a kit that includes the caliper and the bracket. the 2017 bracket is larger as it uses a larger brake rotor.
    please consider checking out my Mirage related youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6c...IEViRFw/videos

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    Anyone know of an easy way to make the brake pedal more sensitive? The brakes on my Suzuki Alto were like a switch, very sensitive and I liked that. There is no air in my system and they are very lazy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skyblue View Post
    Anyone know of an easy way to make the brake pedal more sensitive? The brakes on my Suzuki Alto were like a switch, very sensitive and I liked that. There is no air in my system and they are very lazy.
    You probably just want more vacuum in your brake booster. It’s setup like this intentionally so the brake pads aren’t constantly dragging against rotors. Generally speaking this would involve you installing a larger brake booster. Alternatively you could use a vacuum pump to obtain a lower pressure in the booster and have more assistance. A 3rd option would be to disassemble the **** and **** around with the strength of the return spring
    Last edited by mohammad; 02-14-2022 at 08:20 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skyblue View Post
    Anyone know of an easy way to make the brake pedal more sensitive? The brakes on my Suzuki Alto were like a switch, very sensitive and I liked that. There is no air in my system and they are very lazy.
    Not an expert, but changing to braided steel lines may help as well... BSS reduces flex that rubber has which theoretically should make brake application more instantaneous.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mohammad View Post
    You probably just want more vacuum in your brake booster. It’s setup like this intentionally so the brake pads aren’t constantly dragging against rotors. Generally speaking this would involve you installing a larger brake booster. Alternatively you could use a vacuum pump to obtain a lower pressure in the booster and have more assistance. A 3rd option would be to disassemble the **** and **** around with the strength of the return spring
    Adding more vacuum would make it easier to depress, I don't think it would solve what I want though which is to make the throw of the pedal shorter before full braking. I'm guessing the only way to accomplish this would be to add a more sensitive master cylinder or adjust where it connects to the brake pedal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skyblue View Post
    Adding more vacuum would make it easier to depress.
    You are correct it would make it easier to depress, not necessarily shorten the distance

    heres a website with some nice diagrams:http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129


    The obvious recommendation would be aggressive brake rotors. if you upgrade to 2017 rotors you will get a bigger rotor which could be a bit better.

    What your asking for with the pedal being a shorter throw generally speaking would make the pads drag and create heat and brake fade. The bad idea would be to mount something above the pedal to keep it constantly slightly depressed.

    The braided steel lines @Ares mentioned is also a good point.

    If you think your brakes are preforming worse than they should its possible you have a stuck auto adjuster in the rear thats allowing the shoes to retract too much making it take more pedal force/depression to actuate the brakes.

    Id also like to mention that BMW has a system to trick drivers into thinking their vehicle brakes are superior with a system called "brake fade compensation" that uses ABS module to create the illusion that the brakes aren't fading by increasing brake assistance as the brakes begin to fade. Doesnt seem like an overly safe idea to me but what do i know.
    please consider checking out my Mirage related youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6c...IEViRFw/videos

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    Most of time, rubber boots at lower pin get swollen over time, which causes uneven pads wear.
    Suggests Carlson 16131 boot kits, Raybestos H16131, or else to solve the issue.
    Unless your piston is seized for too long and cost to much to rebuild the caliper, or you don't need to get calipers replaced...

    In regards of calipers availability, DNS calipers (Canadian-rebuilt mostly) are available thru some aftermarket warehouses.
    If you have pre-2014 to 2015 small rotor Mirage and would like to keep the original size of disc, BBB industries carries smaller bracket one.
    Last edited by MigWay; 03-06-2022 at 12:47 AM.

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    Unhappy Front Brake Piston Rubber Boot Damaged

    Hi guys, I hope you are able to help me with this. I've replaced my rotors and brake pads today. But I noticed the following damages on the "piston external rubber boot".

    Right side:
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    Left side:
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    I have 3 questions regarding this (first one is the most important ):
    1. Can I use my car normally or is it unsafe?
    2. Is it hard to fix it by my own? Do I need to remove the full caliper or can I do it with minimal effort without remove too much things and without "spill brake fluid all over the place"?
    3. Given the mileage (50k km / 31k miles) of the car how this boots gets damaged like this? What is more strange is that both sides have this damage on almost the same location. I believe that I didn't made anything to that happen? I replaced brake pads once before this time, but I just used a tool to move piston back, it doesn't make too much sense to be have been done on that time as the tool only contact with the metal part of the piston. This time I just used by hands to move the pistons back.


    Something that I noticed is that the driver side (left) have slightly less brake pad friction material left then the right side.

    It would be awesome if someone could help me with those questions.

    I wish a great year to everyone on this forum! Cheers

    (3A92 59kW)

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  11. #40
    Yeah it's safe. As long as it's not leaking fluid you're fine. As for replacing the boot. I haven't had one apart. I really can't remember if I ever replaced one on any vehicle so I'm no help on that one. But I probably have one laying around that I could tear apart for science.

    It's possible that the boot wasn't fully retracted when the caliper was re-installed last time. It's easy for that to happen.

    As for one side wearing faster than the other, that could be caused by stickly slide pin or grease and crap shoved into the hole stping the pin from going in all the way.
    Make sure the pins/bolts that the caliper rides on slide freely and fully into the caliper bracket. Clean them up and lightly grease up the pins/bolts. I find it easier to pull the caliper bracket off and clean out the holes that way.


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