Clutch failure at 99k miles (damper springs were broken)

[Top_Fuel]

Yeah...not a lot of info to go on here?!?

The op's first post might explain why his clutch was in pieces after 99K miles...

...bought my g4 last year
...It is a 5 speed ES model
...i like to go fast.
...how strong are the axles on the 5 speed model?
...I do enjoy launching my car with all 75hp it offers
...considering getting a deal on some sticky tires through work to do so with but dont want to embark on such a journey if i will be constantly destroying CVs.

Ummm...maybe stop worrying about CV joints and start saving up for the next replacement clutch?!?

[Fummins]

Yeah that'll do it. Reminds me of guys on the Teryx forum that get mad and cry about being in the hospital when they launch their 1600lb sxs off a jump and it lands on the front of the roll cage folding it backwards.
I managed to destroy a brand new clutch and flywheel in 20,000kms in a 97 dodge that made 50lb/boost. I drove like a retard for 1 year, mission accomplished. I didn't cry and blame the clutch, I was a cheap ass and didn't want to put a $1500 soutbend clutch in it so I went with a stock luk setup lol.

[Dodge Aries K]

Yeah, the clutch doesn't enjoy getting dumped. The fact it survived being beaten for almost 100,000 miles is pretty impressive.

[AtomicPunk]

I hope the op doesn't feel bullied or emasculated now! I can recommend a good feelings journal that might help if she does.

Send that journal over to the Covid 19 thread; lots of butthurt over there.

[Fummins]

You're welcome

[mitsumi]

Edit: just wanted to add I thought it would be easy to work on these cars because it makes less torque than a decent impact gun. I expected it to be put together more like a side by side in terms of simplicity considering the small engine.

Youre the only one i saw saying its hard to work on this cars here.

Im no mechanic like the others in here but im sure this car is easy to maintain and work with, just sayin.

[Dirk Diggler]

I hope the op doesn't feel bullied or emasculated now! I can recommend a good feelings journal that might help if she does.

We get alot of one and done postings on here. Sadly, it seems some of them are just bad news post. Like "my car died, its a piece of junk.

[Fummins]

I guess in the op's defense, it's kinda normal to get pissed off at something they run screaming to the interwebs to cry about it. I know I do it daily.
There are a few issues I've run into while swapping out transmissions in these cars are pretty minor.

-If you are a lazy slow adult and don't unbend the locking tab for the axle nut you can easily destroy the threads on the axle and maybe the nut too. Easy fix, don't be lazy.
-I think there is more wiggle room with a 5 speed so maybe this isn't a big issue for them, but to remove a cvt without pulling the suspension crossmember you gotta dick with it a little. A transmission jack with an adjustable weeble and wobble plate helps a ton.
-The axles don't easily pull out of the transmission. Use a pry bar.
-When I pull a drivetrain I disconnect the spindle at the control arm rather than the strut. It makes way more sense to do it this way(to me). Obviously pop off the tie rod end too.. It's two nuts, hit the spindle with a good heavy hammer, not some pos tinker toy claw hammer...Pry down on the control arm with a 3 or 4' prybar and pull the spindle away from the ball joint and axle. No dicking with the caliper flopping around pulling on the brake lines etc...less bolts, less time, less chance of screwing something up.
-When reinstalling, the ball joint or tie rods often spin when tightening the nut making it impossible to tighten. Stick a jack under the ball joint and use a pry bar for the tie rod to stop them from spinning.

I can't think of anything else that'd piss me off enough to cry about that wasn't self induced. Lining up a clutch goes one of two ways quick and easy of you fight with it for hours. Transverse mounted ones can sometimes be more of a pita.

Hopefully the op can take a good roasting and post what he had a hard time with.

[Ares]

While my clutch probably had to be changed in another 10-15k miles (was at around 75k then), it was (parts of) my tranny that gave in. Hard driving and teaching kids how to drive stick are my reasons.

[Eggman]

For Mirage, complete set: LUK part number: 619319100

clutch plate: LUK 319024510

pressure plate: LUK 119021410

Added this to the Engine & transmission aftermarket parts index.