2002 Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear L400Update: https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...l=1#post155833
I'm gonna attempt to do a write up(with some pics) on how to replace your cvt for dummies. I'll probably miss a step or 10 along the way so this'll probably need a lot of editing. If I forget something I'll try to add more info when I change the next one.
I'll be working on a 2015 but newer ones are gonna be the same deal, just different looking brackets below the exhaust manifold since they have different exhaust setups.
1.First thing I do is start draining the coolant so I can work on other things while that's going on. Before cracking the drain at the bottom of the rad I recommend pulling the plastic splash shield that runs along the bottom of the rad support(side to side) otherwise the coolant will run onto it and get everywhere...
2. Next unhook the battery(10mm), battery hold down (10mm), battery tray (12mm) and the wiring harness that clipped to the battery tray. There is a little fuse box clipped to the front of the battery tray. You can either release the clips or remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the bracket to the tray. Do whatever floats your boat.
To release those oval shaped clips that hold the wiring harness all over the place slide a 10mm wrench over them and tadda they come apart. Somewhere around now you're gonna want to remove the air cleaner too if you haven't already. 3 10mm bolts hold the aircleaner to the valve cover, loosen off the wire hose clamp from the throttle body and unplug the maf at the front of the airbox. There is one little peg on the bottom of the airbox that sits in a rubber grommet. When the grommet dries out the airbox doesn't want to pop out without cracking so be gentle and wedge a prybar under there to help work it loose if it's stubborn. There's also a valve cover breather and transmission breather clipped to the lh side of the airbox, just move them out of the way.
3. Un-clip the wiring harness from all the brackets on the transmission and unplug everything along the way. There aren't many connectors. There's the shift position switch right on top, speed sensor on the front lh side of the case(near the dipstick), another speed sensor directly below the master cylinder, one more further down at the back of the transmission(get that one from below), and the last is a pita round connector on the bottom front corner. To release it you have to push in on a grey tab and rotate it counter clock wise quite a ways until you're able to lift up on it. I usually end up breaking a chunk of the rotating part off. It's still good. Oh and I remove just unbolt the ground wire from the strut tower too(10mm bolt) and pull it with the cvt.
4.Remove the throttle body(4-10mm bolts). Unplug the wiring connector but you don't need to unhook the coolant lines going to it(but you can if you want to I guess). Hold the throttle body off to the side and you can then get to the 2 bell housing bolts with a long 12mm wrench. Note the lower bolt is shorter than the upper(center) one. Iirc...
5.I already missed a step..Unhook the shifter cable. I pull the lever off the transmission(14mm nut) then wiggle up and back and forth until it slides off the shaft and unbolt the shift cable bracket(12mm bolts).
6. I pulled the upper tie bar and rad fan when I replaced the last cvt. It was tight getting the fan out and I wouldn't bother doing it that way unless you remove the bumper cover(
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7.....Unbolt the front wheels(21mm). Take a ****ty old flat blade screwdriver or a narrow chissel hammer it into the keyway in the end of the axle to bend the little tab on the axle nut. If you don't do this there's a good chance you'll just **** up the threads when you undo the nut. I've done it. *And do yourself a favor and save a lot of time by using an impact. You'll thank me later when you go to bolt everything back together..
Ok...do everything for both sides:Undo tie rod end nuts(17mm),axle nuts 32mm, lower ball joint nuts 19mm or 3/4" wrench. Hit the side of the spindle where the tie rod sits with a bfh or use two bfh's and hammer from both sides at the same time(I finally was able to time this right and it worked well). Push the axle into the spindle a little, it should slide easily. If not give it a tap with a punch centered in the center of the shaft making sure not to hit the threads that you hopefully didn't mangle already. Then give the bottom of the spindle a few whacks from the side where the balljoint sits. Don't hit the balljoint! After a few good shocks take you bf prybar and slide from the front across the top of the control arm towards the bottom of the suspension cross member and pry down gently. Control arm should pry away form spindle. If it doesn't give the spindle a few more good hits. If in doubt google where to hit...
9.Well, on this job I decided to pull the crossmember out rather than fight with the rad fan and other crap in the way. All that's left to do to remove it is 4 bolts holding it to the body and 1 pinch bolt at the steering shaft. In past I removed the bolt form inside the car but I managed to pry the rubber boot back enough from below that I think I can unbolt it from the bottom. Mark the two shafts with a paint marker or something that won't easily rub off so you can line everything back up easily. And stop the steering wheel from turning once you have the bolt removed. I just run the seat belt through it, buckle it up and slide the seat all the way back to lock it in place.
Will work on this again another day.
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