Quote Originally Posted by Christopher_B View Post
I will start using a filter with a grippy surface going forward. Either a FRAM or some of the purolator models. OR I will cut an inch or so from the box and coat the tops of the filter with an undercoating or other rough coating. I'll buy a few at a time and have them ready when I need them. This should make changing from top that much easier. My first oil change with the factory filter was from underneath (car was on a rack) I had to use filter pliers and it was very tight. The second change was from up top and after draining down the factory trough I rotated the filter hole upwards to reduce any spillage.
No matter what you put on the filter to grip it, I wouldn't be able to grab it good enough from the top to loosen or tighten it very well. A 3/8" drive ratchet with a 65 mm / 14 flutes oil filter socket makes the job easy. I could never grip a Mirage oil filter from the top good enough to do the job. I've done 9 oil changes so far. Using the proper tool seems easier to me than coating rough material on every oil filter bought.

If I had access to a lift, I would probably do it from the bottom. I prefer the top without a lift. While I am changing out oil filters, the oil pan in draining. After the job is done (new oil filter on & approximately 3 quarts added), I let the Mirage run for a minute or two. Turn the car off, let the oil settle back down, & top off to the correct level if needed.

Heck, I use an oil filter socket on my Forester, & that oil filter sits on top of the engine near the oil fill hole. I have oil filter band wrenches, too. After changing oil in a variety of things for 30-40 years, you end up with an assortment of tools. I guess I go a little more snug than just a hand crank of the oil filter.