wheel bearing maybe?

[tomrad]

Have had a howling noise for a few months. I was blaming a new tire (right rear Enasave), but now I'm not so sure. No vibration at all. Originally, the noise was noticeable between 55 and 60. Now, it's between 40 and 50, above that the noise is gone.
I've got 110k on my pampered 2015, and I'm extremely careful on bumps and potholes (rarely hit any, ever). Always driven on smooth highways. Just hoping it's not a front bearing, I watched the youtube video of the green 2015 wheel bearing job and it made me nervous. That poor guy had to replace his entire lower control arm.
Thanks for any input. Fummins help appreciated (I know you've changed some of these wheel bearings).

[Fummins]

I'm sure I have a front wheel bearing on the way out on my black car. I thought it was the tires, well it was originally. I noticed a slight howl a while back once in a while at around 50-60mph with decent snow tires on the car and just swapped on some dunlops but the noise is still there.
Rear wheel bearing are easy to swap with a press, fronts are a bit more work. I haven't replaced the front bearings in these things yet, I've just replaced the entire spindle with one from a wreck.


Swap tires around front to back and see if the noise changes or try different tires altogether if you have a set mounted.

I'm weary of suggesting people do things after the trouble that one guy had changing his cvt fluid and filters lol

[tomrad]

Thanks! As long as a wheel doesn't plan to fly off, I'll wait a bit to do the job. I ignore the noise. Only been a couple of months since the noise set in anyway. May be a rear bearing. I hope so, anyway! Thanks again.

[Fummins]

I just watched that vijeo up to the point where he cut his ball joint. That coulda been avoided. Don't jack up the car under the engine, I don't know if he did that in the video, it mighta just been the angle of the dangle but it sure looked that way to me.

I'd do a few things differently, or different order. He was dead on about undoing the axle nut, make sure you bend that part of the axle nut or it'll likely destroy the threads on the axle.
I'd remove the spindle in this order.
-Jack up, remove wheel...
-Remove axle nut
-Remove rotor and caliper/bracket and brake line bracket, tie up out of the way
-remove abs sensor at some point
-can remove tie rod end before or after balljoint nut. Doesn't matter.
-turn steering wheel all the way to the left if you didn't remove tie rod end yet, if you did then just turn the spindle by hand. It'll only go so far then the axle will stop it from moving any further. It's fine...
-Remove ball joint nut with a 19mm or 3/4" wrench. If ball joint starts spinning with the nut jack up the car under the ball joint.
-To break the spindle loose from the ball joint I just turn the spindle one way or the other where you can hit the side of the bottom or the spindle where the ball joint goes through. Must use bfh not ****ty claw hammer. Better yet use two bfh's and hit from each side at the same time. It's hard to do but if done rights works slick! I'm sure there are ball joint seperators that might work too, I've never used one before. Pickle forks will usually just tear the boot(at least for me) so I only use them on stuff I'm replacing anyways.
-Once ball joint is broke free from the spindle use a long prybar or whatever you have lying around to pry down on the control arm.
-Then remove two bolts holding spindle to strut.

I can't remember how these spindles come apart. Or which way is easier. Sometimes you can pull the hub off with a slide hammer before removing the spindle then cut whats left of the inner race off the hub with a die grinder or use a press. Or get creative with a chunk of allthread/redi-rod, some nuts, big azz sockets and washers and make your own press.

[tomrad]

Thanks again! I really appreciate it.

[tomrad]

I just watched that vijeo up to the point where he cut his ball joint. That coulda been avoided. Don't jack up the car under the engine, I don't know if he did that in the video, it mighta just been the angle of the dangle but it sure looked that way to me.

I'd do a few things differently, or different order. He was dead on about undoing the axle nut, make sure you bend that part of the axle nut or it'll likely destroy the threads on the axle.
I'd remove the spindle in this order.
-Jack up, remove wheel...
-Remove axle nut
-Remove rotor and caliper/bracket and brake line bracket, tie up out of the way
-remove abs sensor at some point
-can remove tie rod end before or after balljoint nut. Doesn't matter.
-turn steering wheel all the way to the left if you didn't remove tie rod end yet, if you did then just turn the spindle by hand. It'll only go so far then the axle will stop it from moving any further. It's fine...
-Remove ball joint nut with a 19mm or 3/4" wrench. If ball joint starts spinning with the nut jack up the car under the ball joint.
-To break the spindle loose from the ball joint I just turn the spindle one way or the other where you can hit the side of the bottom or the spindle where the ball joint goes through. Must use bfh not ****ty claw hammer. Better yet use two bfh's and hit from each side at the same time. It's hard to do but if done rights works slick! I'm sure there are ball joint seperators that might work too, I've never used one before. Pickle forks will usually just tear the boot(at least for me) so I only use them on stuff I'm replacing anyways.
-Once ball joint is broke free from the spindle use a long prybar or whatever you have lying around to pry down on the control arm.
-Then remove two bolts holding spindle to strut.

I can't remember how these spindles come apart. Or which way is easier. Sometimes you can pull the hub off with a slide hammer before removing the spindle then cut whats left of the inner race off the hub with a die grinder or use a press. Or get creative with a chunk of allthread/redi-rod, some nuts, big azz sockets and washers and make your own press.

Just jacked the car up and spun the wheels - doesn't seem noisy.
I'm applying a little logic now....this noise started exactly the day that I replaced the right rear tire. The noise was at around 53 to 60 mph. I ignored it, and stayed below 53 or above 60 whenever possible.
Then, in the last few weeks, I've noticed the noise has migrated lower, to between 40 and 50. Above, around 48 or so, noise is gone 100%. I'd think if it were a bad bearing, there would not be an improvement at a particular speed.
While spinning the tires, I noticed the left rear is lumpy (as the rears get if you don't rotate them on a Mirage). Yeah, I don't rotate tires. But thinking, maybe the noise is caused by the left rear tire. It's not the 'whump-whump-whump' I got with the original worn out Enasaves, just a steady howl.
Will keep you posted.

[Fummins]

I've definitely seen tires sound just like a bad wheel bearing. Especially directional snow tires. Sometimes you can feel or see the tire tread chopped or different heights. Could always toss the spare onto the most suspect looking corner and give it a go.

[tomrad]

I've definitely seen tires sound just like a bad wheel bearing. Especially directional snow tires. Sometimes you can feel or see the tire tread chopped or different heights. Could always toss the spare onto the most suspect looking corner and give it a go.

Yes, that's exactly what I'll do. I suspect it became noticeable when I increased the height of the right side by 10/32 (new tire). Must have made the left side ride on a different part of the lumpy tread. It's definitely cupped.
I have a spare full size wheel and tire, will try that out. Thanks.

[tomrad]

Yeah, must be both front wheel bearings. Now I feel the 'thump, thump thump' when turning either direction. Steady noise now, better above 50 mph.
Just hoping the wheel(s) don't come off! I plan to do this job within the next week or so. Will get pics. Fummins, did you say they usually get noisy with no play?

[inuvik]

Yeah, must be both front wheel bearings. Now I feel the 'thump, thump thump' when turning either direction. Steady noise now, better above 50 mph.
Just hoping the wheel(s) don't come off! I plan to do this job within the next week or so. Will get pics. Fummins, did you say they usually get noisy with no play?

Are you sure it's not just CV joints?