That Cascadia Subduction Zone is no joke:
Oregon.gov - The Cascadia Subduction Zone
A tsunami of up to 100' in height!The Cascadia Subduction Zone is a 600-mile fault that runs from northern California up to British Columbia and is about 70-100 miles off the Pacific coast shoreline. There have been 41 earthquakes in the last 10,000 years within this fault that have occurred as few as 190 years or as much as 1200 years apart. The last earthquake that occurred in this fault was on January 26, 1700, with an estimated 9.0 magnitude. This earthquake caused the coastline to drop several feet and a tsunami to form and crash into the land. What is most surprising is that evidence for this great earthquake also came from Japan. Japanese historic records indicate that a destructive distantly-produced tsunami struck their coast on January 26, 1700. By studying the geological records and the flow of the Pacific Ocean, scientists have been able to link the tsunami in Japan with the great earthquake from the Pacific Northwest. Native American legends also support to the timing of this last event.
Oregon has the potential for a 9.0+ magnitude earthquake caused by the Cascadia Subduction Zone and a resulting tsunami of up to 100 feet in height that will impact the coastal area. There is an estimated 2-4 minutes of shaking or rolling that will be felt along the coast line with the strength and intensity decreasing the further inland you are.
The Cascadia Subduction Zone has not produced an earthquake since 1700 and is building up pressure where the Juan de Fuca Plate is subsiding underneath the North American plate. Currently, scientists are predicting that there is about a 37 percent chance that a megathrust earthquake of 7.1+ magnitude in this fault zone will occur in the next 50 years. This event will be felt throughout the Pacific Northwest.
With the current preparedness levels of Oregon, we can anticipate being without services and assistance for at least 2 weeks, if not longer, when the Cascadia Subduction Zone earthquake occurs. While this will be difficult to overcome, our citizens, businesses, schools, government, and communities as a whole can take steps to get prepared. Take action now by actively planning and preparing yourself and your community to be ready for two weeks for disasters.
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)
I have OCD too. I have to check my stove 5-6 times as a routine, before I leave my house..
Make sure things that are supposed to be off are off. Make sure my Mirage 5 speed is in gear, that's a biggie for my OCD. Ugh.
I use to count my steps, and worry I'd start a disaster if I didn't step the right steps. But I'm okay with that part of my OCD now. It's all stoves and keeping my car in gear when it's parked. OCD is a mental illness for sure lol.
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.2 mpg (US) ... 17.9 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.7 mpg (Imp)
I've driven 87 miles since filling up last week and the "gauge" (digital display) still indicates a full tank. I kept looking down every minute or two for the last 30 miles to watch for when it would go down to 7/8, but it hasn't yet.
The car tells me it's averaging a little over 42 mpg, so it should have burned about two gallons so far.
FYI, the onboard gauge is going to read a little bit optimistic.
My experience with 4 different Mirages is that it reads around 4% above actual. My first was optimistic by 6% on average (and it varies from fill to fill); my current Mirage is only off by 1% on average over 5 fills.
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 63.2 mpg (US) ... 26.9 km/L ... 3.7 L/100 km ... 75.9 mpg (Imp)
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 63.2 mpg (US) ... 26.9 km/L ... 3.7 L/100 km ... 75.9 mpg (Imp)
dspace9 (04-23-2021)
It stays on full (8 bars) longer if it were completely topped off when previously refueled.
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View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.4 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.9 mpg (Imp)
Thanks MetroMPG. That's not a bad idea. If the photo is supposed to supplant the actual checking of my stove, then I'd have to check the photo 4-5 times, too. I haven't tried this.
It's a bizarre affliction to be born with.
Add to that me being a lefty, and I must be a sight to behold sometimes.
7milesout, I find the gas tank's meter stays full longest at first, then as the tank goes down, seems to go down more rapidly as you get to 0 gallons. I find that with all my cars. Takes many many miles to see the tank go from full to 7/8 full. Then from 3/8 to empty takes about 3 miles.
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.2 mpg (US) ... 17.9 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.7 mpg (Imp)
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View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.4 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.9 mpg (Imp)
In my case, when it comes to cars, it's more about managing everything perfectly, not so much with verifying multiple times that something was done correctly. For example, if I discover my CVT fluid was overfilled for 5,000 miles of driving, I'll worry about the potential long-term irreparable damage that may have been caused by that condition rather than obsessively checking the dipstick multiple times after the overfilled condition has been corrected.
When it comes to checking things for me in general, every residence I've lived in since I was six has had a front door that may not lock properly unless it's pulled hard when closing. When my friends shut the door, often they don't realize this and I'm able to push it open after they've told me it's properly locked. Whenever I leave home, I shut the door tightly and then try hard to push it open (to test it). There's no predetermined number of pushes on the door or tugs on the handle that I need. I just have to be 100% sure ONE TIME that it's actually locked. But often I'll have to push or tug 3-4 times before I'm 100% sure. Sometimes it happens on the first try. Usually, the first push or two only assures my brain at 99% certainty so I have to try again. Taking a picture wouldn't benefit me since my problem is that the door may not actually be locked when it's fully closed, and so it would appear the same way in a photo regardless of whether it's properly locked.
Yes, exactly, and since I added a full 1.000 gallon after the first click-off when I filled it last week, then drove nearly 100 miles without any change in the fuel gauge, it can be reasonably assumed I've burned a total of two gallons. That means that if instead of adding 1.000 full gallon after the first click-off, I'd removed a full gallon from the tank at that point, the fuel gauge would still indicate 8/8 full at that level. Just a data point for any weirdos like me who might be interested in knowing this.
Last edited by CrazyMind2017; 04-23-2021 at 03:51 PM.