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Thread: axle nut - torque in the air, or on the ground?

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    axle nut - torque in the air, or on the ground?

    Planning ahead for my front wheel bearing job. I see the Mitsubishi service manual shows 199 ft/lbs torque for the axle nut. They also show a special tool (MB990767) to hold the hub from spinning while tightening. Of course, few of us are likely to own this tool. Wondering if it's ok to torque with the wheel on (weight of the car to hold hub from spinning), or jam a pry bar in between the studs? The latter is what I usually do on cars, but not sure if I should try it on these wheel studs. I'm used to old cars and heavy duty trucks.
    Tks!



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    Senior Member daleWV's Avatar
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    Since the wheel bearings can easily be damaged if subjected to vehicle weight without the axel nut having being tightened, I would at least get the nut tightened as much as possible with whatever tools you have before lowering to the ground and applying the final 199 lb/ft torque. I would try to get at least 75 or 100 lb/ft using a pry bar between the studs.

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    tomrad (04-15-2021)

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    I see the service manual also says to never use an impact to remove axle nuts.
    Attachment 20985

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    tomrad (04-15-2021)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    I see the service manual also says to never use an impact to remove axle nuts.
    Attachment 20985

    Yeah, it probably doesn't matter. Seems most of what I find out I shouldn't do is what I did for years on cars with no problem anyway.

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    You aren't putting them on with impact are you?

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    Just realized my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. Good excuse to buy another one I guess.

  9. #7
    Yeah, give it a couple uga duga's with the impact. Experts may disagree.
    Depending on what it is I often go by feel. Except wheel nuts, head bolts or something I have no idea about or haven't touched before.

    I goofed up once torquing cam shaft caps(ohc) and used ft-lbs instead of inch lbs. It seemed a little too tight, as I pulled the threads out of the head....

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    mohammad (11-01-2021)

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    Just jack one side

    Quote Originally Posted by tomrad View Post
    Planning ahead for my front wheel bearing job. I see the Mitsubishi service manual shows 199 ft/lbs torque for the axle nut. They also show a special tool (MB990767) to hold the hub from spinning while tightening. Of course, few of us are likely to own this tool. Wondering if it's ok to torque with the wheel on (weight of the car to hold hub from spinning), or jam a pry bar in between the studs? The latter is what I usually do on cars, but not sure if I should try it on these wheel studs. I'm used to old cars and heavy duty trucks.
    Tks!

    When I do any kind of front end work from bearings,axles or simple tire change I only jack up the side I'm working on. With the other wheel on the ground nothing spins. Some swear for some reason to have the whole front end up but I've been doing it this way for years and not once had an issue. Simple remedy

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    Senior Member Wallythacker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Yeah, give it a couple uga duga's with the impact. Experts may disagree.
    Depending on what it is I often go by feel. Except wheel nuts, head bolts or something I have no idea about or haven't touched before.

    I goofed up once torquing cam shaft caps(ohc) and used ft-lbs instead of inch lbs. It seemed a little too tight, as I pulled the threads out of the head....
    You don't even need to make that simple error either, just buy a name brand torque from Amazon which is from a lot that was never tested for quality control. https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Tor...r&pageNumber=1

    WAY too many bad reviews for a Craftsman.


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