Has anyone seen P0458?

[Top_Fuel]

You might want to start following the wiring harness back from the MAF and look for any damaged areas. If the sensor is good but the computer is still getting a bad reading from it, then it could be in the harness. Maybe you pinched a wire or something during the transmission install process. It wouldn't be the first time that's happened to someone.

[RavenMirage2015]

You might want to start following the wiring harness back from the MAF and look for any damaged areas. If the sensor is good but the computer is still getting a bad reading from it, then it could be in the harness. Maybe you pinched a wire or something during the transmission install process. It wouldn't be the first time that's happened to someone.

Is there a diagram I can use to test for continuity without pulling the whole harness apart? Or do the wire colors track all the way to the fuse box? I'd really prefer to avoid that if possible, and I'd hate to go through the effort of tearing the harness out if that turns out to not be the issue...

[7milesout]

Raven - Let me give you my $0.02 worth. Let me know if you need change back!

• P0458 - That is related to your purge solenoid. And based on your original description, it acted like a purge solenoid problem.

What happens when the purge solenoid fails, or doesn't work (like when it is not plugged up correctly), it lets evap system vapors enter the intake. This floods the engine and is difficult to start an engine. It will hit on the odd cylinder but won't fire until the excess vapors are cleared away. I've experienced this first hand. You might try to hold the throttle open to get plenty of air to mix with the vapors ... or at least to clear the vapors out quicker. My guess is that in some way your purge solenoid is not connected, or not connected solidly. Check that connection real good, clean it, check for bent pins. Last case is, replace that solenoid. They're generally inexpensive, in the $20 - $25 range.

• P0113 - Is an intake air temperature sensor like others have said. My understanding is that when the temps are low, the voltage increases toward 5V, and vice-versa. My guess is it never truly gets to 5V unless there is a problem. Yours seems to have a problem. I'm going to have to continue to guess that this is a connection issue. With all the work that was just done on your car, missing a couple connections doesn't seem unusual. I'm not sure if that sensor is part of the inbox, intake manifold, or if it hanging out in front of the radiator.

[RavenMirage2015]

Okay, update, I have no clue what fixed it but it's running great now. I need to do a transmission flush because there was mud in it (idiots pulling the part from the salvage let it tip I guess), and the exhaust needs to be tightened down, but she's running and starting just fine. God this is a finicky car sometimes. My best guess as to why she wouldn't start is just that she was crazy, crazy flooded. I have no clue what was causing the trouble codes, but I'll update if they come back. I'll probably do two or three fluid flushes over the next day just to be sure I get as much of that crap out as I can. At least if it dies in the next 6 months from that I can get a full refund.

[Eggman]

Sounds like an intermittent wiring fault that magically (temporarily) fixed itself. With your engine running check your wiring harness carefully gently tugging at various points and see if your engine stops running.

Or just drive it and smile at how this car just keeps running.

[RavenMirage2015]

Sounds like an intermittent wiring fault that magically (temporarily) fixed itself. With your engine running check your wiring harness carefully gently tugging at various points and see if your engine stops running.

Or just drive it and smile at how this car just keeps running.

Option 2 seems like the one for me lol. With how the last few days have been, I don't even want to think about working on Bloodletter more. I was going to hard install an inverter with this swap and do a brake fluid flush, but now I'm going to wait at least a week before I do those. It might come back, but that's future me's problem if so.

Thanks for all the suggestions here, I'm not sure if any one in particular helped but I tried them all so one of them must have done something.

[Fummins]

I had one that wouldn't start for a few days. I think my compression tester is hooped as it showed really low compression in 2 holes, that or the car runs alright with 2 low holes. . I figured it was toast then it started up after I left it alone for a while. It's been driven everyday now for month or so now.

[7milesout]

I think you're probably right, it was flooded big time. Good luck with it long term, probably be Ok.