As stated in title i own a 2015 poverty edition, i only have a single key to the vehicle, it does not have any buttons on the key so i dont think the vehicle is capable of keyless entry.
I have door lock cylinders on both sides of the vehicle.
Normally when unlocking the door using the physical key on either side all doors unlock. But I seem to have broken that system on the drivers side and now the car thinks the key is always in the door lock cylinder being turnt toward the lock position. as at anytime by any method when i unlock either front door all doors immediately relock.
I am confident this is the issue because i feel less/basically no resistance when turning the key in the drivers side door lock cylinder toward the unlock position. But on the passenger side, the door lock cylinder is still capable of unlocking the doors but they relock less than a second later.
I had two questions
1. is this vehicle supposed to be capable of keyless entry?
2. has this happened to anyone else yet? does anyone have any diagrams/photos/videos of both disassembling the door and of what the door lock cylinder should look like?
You have only a single key?! First of all, get it copied quick, before anything is wrong with it or it gets lost. That can save a lot of money!
Presumably a switch inside the lock on the driver side is causing this.
I would take off the interior panel of the door and disconnect the plug going to the lock. That goes to the electrical central locking and tells it what to do.
Btw, my 2014 poverty edition has only one single lock on the outside of the car.
does your mirage have keyless entry/ a key with buttons on it?
Also does your mirage have a fog light switch? not the lights just the switch
Any instructions on how to get to the door lock actuator? once i have the interior door panel off will i need to remove the actuator to access its wiring?
Look at the FSM, section 42. It does not mention much about the switch location, but is very informative. The connector going to the switch is accessable after removing the panel.
PS: Do not wreck the plastic sheeting, it needs to go back as it was if you don't want additional problems later.
My European poverty edition had a push-button key, but it fell apart and the electronic chip was lost. Only the push-button part is usable, so I leave it at home. Otherwise I have two keys without buttons. One is origininal, the other a cloned copy.
The European version has no foglights, Europe mandates DRL, and that is what it has.
I disassembled the door to disconnect the wiring harness going to the door lock actuator. Upon disassembly the door lock actuator wiring harness does not appear to have any pins in it. Im unsure why. It could possibly be a dummy connector. Ive attached a photo below.
After removing the doors interior plastic the door lock began to function as normal, So I put it back together and now its working as normal. Im unsure what I did to fix it, I may have possibly stretched out the cables.
Id also like to point out that in my car if the doors are locked the passenger door is unable to open the door from the interior door with the doorknob without first unlocking the door. But the drivers door can be opened from the interior with the doorhandle while it is locked. im unsure why this is.
Id also like to share that all 5 of my door panel screws were of different styles/colors/sizes and lengths and im missing some of the plastic fasteners that hold the interior plastic of the door to the door. its clear to me im not the first bafoon messing around with this.
On a side note, I thought that these door lock actuators were self contained units, my door appears to feature the universal kind where its a rod that pulls/pushes on the door lock cable. Im unclear if they come like this from the factory. if not the install is very clean. Ive attached a photo of what i mean below:Attachment 21315
On the top right of your picture in post 5 is a piece of universal bracket and what looks like a cheap chinese universal master actuator.
As you said, it certainly was fu**ed up by some ignorant idiot instead of doing it properly. That also explains why the pins were pulled out. They would now be connected to the cheap universal actuator.
If the push/pull wire between actuator and lock (looks like a spoke from a bycycle) is too short or too long, or the soft metal bracket holding the actuator were bent, the problem as described in your first post would be created.
Probably the fundamental problem leading to all of this was the actual original switch in the lock simply being loose. A quick look at the switch and the problem would have been easily and permanently fixed. Annoying that some folks don't use their brains...
the link works for me but here it is again. The install looks very clean for after market. Also do you think the pins in the connecter were removed or if it came without power door locks from the factory. I have no idea how/ why someone would ever remove pins from a connector like that.
Ah! I See, just as suspected! If the door cladding is put back in place, it just might push onto those very flexible flimsy brackets, and that would effectively change the adjustment of the push/pull wire. That would mess up the function again. Check that the cladding stays clear of those flimsy brackets!
Without the connector for the central locking attached, the interaction between doors would also be fu**ed up.
Probably all the original parts are still there, and you could get it working again properly as it once was? Maybe worth a look.
Shitbox
2015 Poverty Edition Door lock issues
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