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Thread: My engine is effered

  1. #41
    Senior Member Cobrajet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Spun a rod bearing on the middle cylinder. It was completely thrashed, crank is damaged. They used some oddball dinky bolts for the rod caps. A 12point 5/16(8mm) socket worked. The main bearings are inverted torx. I tried a 3/8 6 point but stripped one out. I’m
    I’m
    Not sure if I’ll keep it around and try to part it out or get my $100 core back.
    Lkq $hit the bed and didn’t deliver the parts yet. Might see them on Tuesday…
    Ooof. Well, now you know!



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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    They used some oddball dinky bolts for the rod caps. A 12point 5/16(8mm) socket worked. The main bearings are inverted torx. I tried a 3/8 6 point but stripped one out.
    Looks almost like a triple square, the German manufacturers seem fond of those.

    Thanks for the photos Fummins !


    edit: had to google the difference , it's all in the angles apparentlyName:  Screen Shot 2021-09-19 at 8.48.20 AM.jpg
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    2018 Mirage

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2018 Mirage GT 1.2 automatic: 38.0 mpg (US) ... 16.1 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.6 mpg (Imp)


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  4. #43
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've heard of triple square bolts but haven't ran into them before. I remember working on some VW's that used to require a trip to the rape wagon to buy some specialty sockets.

    Aparently my fog lights are in the mailbox. I ordered these September 7th and they came from China to Central Alberta in under 2 weeks. Free shipping! I used the same ones in my previous 14'.

    I also ordered a small draft inducer motor for my furnace on the 4th($20 shipping) from Illinois and last time I checked it was somewhere in Ontario. I thought China was further, and things are taking forever to get delivered because......you know.

    At least I can install the lights while the bumper cover is off.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  5. #44
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Yeah, I've heard of triple square bolts but haven't ran into them before. I remember working on some VW's that used to require a trip to the rape wagon to buy some specialty sockets.

    Aparently my fog lights are in the mailbox. I ordered these September 7th and they came from China to Central Alberta in under 2 weeks. Free shipping! I used the same ones in my previous 14'.

    I also ordered a small draft inducer motor for my furnace on the 4th($20 shipping) from Illinois and last time I checked it was somewhere in Ontario. I thought China was further, and things are taking forever to get delivered because......you know.

    At least I can install the lights while the bumper cover is off.
    You think you got a chance of being able to drop in a newer CVT7 in your 2014? I called around a few trans shops and one said it would have to be a pre 04/01/14 and another said they didn't know but they didn't see why not.

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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    So far I didn't notice any obvious differences. Yet... Unless someones tried it already we don't know?

    I know sometimes mfg's would change part numbers every year for no known reason even though they would interchange across various years.

    IIRC the cvt cooler for the early 2014 is different from the late 2014 and later. I haven't gotten the "new" one yet but I'll take a close look and compare the two before bolting it all together. Might even change the cartridge filter because I have one.

    I don't see any problems. I'm using a 2017 engine and 2017 transmission. They'll bolt together and fit in the car fine. As long as all the sensors have the same plugs and the pinout on the big round plug for the valve body is wired the same as mine I think it'll be fine. I didn't check if axles and starters were the same from early 14 to 2017...It'll be fine.

    I'll start taking donations for this worthy cause that can possibly help ten's of people that may consider scrapping their rare(=$$valuable$$) early production cvt(urd) Mirages.

    I looked again at a Mitsu parts site. Found some more part# differences between early 14' and late 14 and newer. Both the cartridge filter and metal strainer filter in the pan have different part numbers. 2014 and 2015(and later) have different oil pan part numbers but they use the same pan gasket. Weird..

    Early Cartridge: 2921A011 Late: 2921A007

    Early Pan filter: 2824A017 Late: 2824A021

    2014 Oil Pan: 2705A036 2015-20':2705A051

    Early cvt cooler: 2920A500 Late 2920A501
    Last edited by Fummins; 09-20-2021 at 09:08 PM.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  7. #46
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    So far I didn't notice any obvious differences. Yet... Unless someones tried it already we don't know?

    I know sometimes mfg's would change part numbers every year for no known reason even though they would interchange across various years.

    IIRC the cvt cooler for the early 2014 is different from the late 2014 and later. I haven't gotten the "new" one yet but I'll take a close look and compare the two before bolting it all together. Might even change the cartridge filter because I have one.

    I don't see any problems. I'm using a 2017 engine and 2017 transmission. They'll bolt together and fit in the car fine. As long as all the sensors have the same plugs and the pinout on the big round plug for the valve body is wired the same as mine I think it'll be fine. I didn't check if axles and starters were the same from early 14 to 2017...It'll be fine.

    I'll start taking donations for this worthy cause that can possibly help ten's of people that may consider scrapping their rare(=$$valuable$$) early production cvt(urd) Mirages.

    I looked again at a Mitsu parts site. Found some more part# differences between early 14' and late 14 and newer. Both the cartridge filter and metal strainer filter in the pan have different part numbers. 2014 and 2015(and later) have different oil pan part numbers but they use the same pan gasket. Weird..

    Early Cartridge: 2921A011 Late: 2921A007

    Early Pan filter: 2824A017 Late: 2824A021

    2014 Oil Pan: 2705A036 2015-20':2705A051

    Early cvt cooler: 2920A500 Late 2920A501
    Very nice post Fummy! I can say with confidence the aux paper filter and drop pan filter from any year will fit in a pre 2014 CVT7. My Aamco guy said he just ordered the filters from Nissan lol. I'd love to know the % of early 2014 CVT7 hitting 300k km. I bet its a decent % in our favor, but f#ck, what do I know?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    I know sometimes mfg's would change part numbers every year for no known reason even though they would interchange across various years.
    Fummins - Excellent post. In your statement above, KNOWN is the key word. In my tenure as a design engineer for Toyota (I absolutely loved my experience there), the Japanese beat it into our heads that they never EVER wanted to release an engineering change. Don't get me wrong. They did release changes. Many. But their target was to NEVER release one. Which is to be translated to: That's why we beat the living crap out of you engineers to get it right from the start, pay attention to your testing, etc.

    That said, every single part number change had a very good reason for it. But the less a customer could distinguish the change, the better. Now that was Toyota. Hyundai-Kia on the other hand, just fired off change after change after change, until they felt it was good, or good enough. But again, every part number change had something behind it. I wouldn't know how Mitsubishi would do it, but I suspect it to be more like Toyota, due to their Japanese brains, than being more like Hyundai-Kia.

    Your posts are very inspiring. I'm sitting on the edge of my chair in anticipation of the end result, and I hope it is a complete success.


    7milesout

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.3 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.8 mpg (Imp)


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  10. #48
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    I should'a tried making a video or something of me yanking the drivetrain out but it'd be a complete gong show and I'm not into that kinda thing. I didn't follow any instructions, I just winged it. I've pulled these things before but only out of cars being scrapped so they were quick and hacky.

    I'll try to list off all the tools I needed and try to write some kind of order in which I did things. I think Loren may have done this already though?

    Most things don't have to be done in any particular order. Basically unbolt parts until you have all the wiring unplugged.

    -First thing I did was jack up the car as high as I could get it and throw a couple jack stands under it. Having the car higher up made it easier for me to work under the hood without having a sore back. Though it may have been a little too high...

    -Pulled the aircleaner assembly(10mm), battery and battery tray(10mm and 12mm?). To remove the wiring harness from the metal brackets stick a 10mm wrench or socket over the back of the plastic retainer clips and they pop right off without destroying them.
    -Then I figured I'd fight with the axles and see how seized everything is gonna be. 32mm for axle nut(make sure you pry lock tab), it came off with an electric impact with a crap battery and wasn't seized to the inside of the hub!
    -Tie rod ends are 17mm, undo the nuts then hit the side of the spindle with a bfh and they pop right off.
    -Ball joints next 19mm or 3/4" wrench. Then again hit the spindle from the side then pry down on the control arm and pull spindle free from ball joint. Push axle through spindles at the same time..If they stick use a pointy punch to push them through. There's no need to remove the calipers, or the spindle from the strut.
    -Can remove starter, 2 12mm bolts? or 14mm, power wire is a 12mm i believe?(I'll edit later it that's wrong.) (can do this later when it's out of the car instead)
    -While it's in the air might as well remove the inspection cover and torque bolts, 12mm and 10mm for the cover 17mm for the 4 torque bolts. (Can do this later too)
    -To unbolt the cat from the exhaust manifold(2014-2015 only), I removed a little tin heatshield above the rh inner cv joint 12mm and 14mm and a few extensions then you can remove the 2 exhaust bolts 14mm.
    -Remove the engine dogbone mount. 17mm.
    -Somewhere in here I disconnected the shifter cable. 2 12mm bolts for the bracket and spring clip holds the end of the cable to the shifter arm.
    -Drain the coolant, oil and cvt fluid. (optional lol)
    -Remove bumper cover, 10mm along the top, 2 10mm lower grille, 2-12mm bolts may or may not still be holding the bumper to the bottom corners of the rad support. Then a bunch of body clips. I use side cutters to remove.(without destroying them) Unplug fog lights if you have them. Grab upper rear corners of bumper and pull away from fender quickly to release.
    -Remove upper tie bar..10 mm bolts, unplug 2 airbag sensors from tie bar first and unclip harness. Remove hood latch and toss it along with hood cable out of the way.
    -Remove rad fan assembly and radiator. More 10mm and a few spring hose clamps.
    -remove alternator 14mm and 12mm, maybe a 10mm for power wire.
    -Remove ac compressor 3 bolts and one plug for clutch. 12mm bolts(me thinks)
    -I removed the throttle body 4- 10mm bolts and left the coolant hoses hooked up, just moved it aside.
    -Intake manifold is next, 10mm bolts again holding it to the head and there's a bracket that I missed with a 12mm bolt holding it to a bracket just below where the t-body bolts up.
    -now you can access the oil pressure sensor, knock sensor and crank sensor plugs. And block heater if applicable. A pick and tiny long flat screwmadriver comes in handy right about meow.
    -This step can go anywhere, unplug all electrical plugs from transmission and engine as you can access them. In no particular order, there's the injectors, temp sensor, trans shift position sensor(p,r,n,d,l),3ish speed sensors on the cvt, one big round pita connector on the front corner of cvt, 02 sensor, evap vent(or purge)solenoid, 3 ign coils...,and probably a couple more.
    -I unbolted the neg. battery cable from the strut tower and left it attached to the cvt.
    -I hooked a chain to what looks like 2 eylets on the engine. It balanced well. This way.(pics to come)
    -Unbolt the transmission mount from the car, 14mm or 17mm. unbolt the car side not the cvt side with the 3 studs-do that later.
    -unbolt the single bolt on the passenger side engine mount on the car side.
    -Hook up engine hoist and lift it up a little, Remove mount from cvt (3-17mm nuts) just to get it out of the way. It'll snag on the wiring otherwise... Studs sometimes come out with the nuts.
    -Jack up and pull out.
    -Have beer then proceed to get into heated arguments with family that's visiting from out of province about Covid vaccines and restrictions, chem trails from jets, politics and stuff.

    I forgot the list of tools
    -The only tools you may need that most people may not own is a 32mm deep socket an impact wrench, and a bfh(Big Fakin Hammer) Don't bother trying to use a claw or framing hammer!!!!! Oh and you'll want an engine hoist or rig up someway to lift it out of the hole.

    Otherwise you'll need :
    10 mm(wrench and sockets 1/4 and 3/8 drive
    12 mm
    14 mm,
    17 mm,
    19 mm(wrench),
    21 mm,
    32 mm(socket)

    impact wrench
    ratchets and an assortment of extensions
    Pliers or channel locks for hose clamps
    Drain pans
    Beer
    Engine hoist(recommended)
    chain
    Beer
    Last edited by Fummins; 09-23-2021 at 01:13 PM.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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  12. #49
    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Update: It's been over a week now. Still waiting for engine and cvt to get delivered. Called the junkyard yesterday and they said it's scheduled to be delivered today. Again.

    Why do things always take longer when you're in a hurry for it?

    I was only charged $100 core on the engine and $50 for the cvt. I might try to part out the engine, oil pan, timing cover, intake etc...Maybe the "new" engine will come with the cat/exhau$t manifold?

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Update: It's been over a week now. Still waiting for engine and cvt to get delivered. Called the junkyard yesterday and they said it's scheduled to be delivered today. Again.

    Why do things always take longer when you're in a hurry for it?

    I was only charged $100 core on the engine and $50 for the cvt. I might try to part out the engine, oil pan, timing cover, intake etc...Maybe the "new" engine will come with the cat/exhau$t manifold?
    What year is the engine/cvt? How many miles on them?



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