Originally Posted by
foama
What I would do:
Jack up the right side, take off the wheel, loosen the two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle by about two turns, and then pull the bottom of the strut outward, and keep it in that position while retightening the two bolts. (Note: There should be about 1/3° camber movement possible with those bolts loose, because the holes in strut and knuckle have a larger diameter than the bolts, and thus a bit of camber-changing movement is possible.) Put wheel back on. Now after changing camber, the toe-in on the right wheel will have become too positive, and has to be adjusted.
Camber will likely be OK and within specs.
Alignment specialists usually are reluctant to do this method, because it is a bit more work and doesn't call for any parts to be sold to the customer at a profit...
The ultimate goal is to have a similar amount of camber (sturtz in NL?) on both wheels, and both within acceptable range, rather than one wheel positive and the other negative. I personally prefer a neutral camber (0°) and neutral toe-in, which saves tyres and fuel, but that's very much debatable and i don't want to poke in a hornets nest by starting a new discussion.
The 0/0 gives you the best MPG, and many new cars come set like this or with slight toe-in for stability under breaking.
In countries which drive on right side of the road road surface is tilt to the right, q d car with 0 cross-camber wouid be drifting to right. To compensate the standard practice is reduce negative camber on left side by 0.3-0.5 degree.
US spec cars are usually setup with horrendous understeer for legal reasons, bigger front sway bars, removing rears, softer springs are the norm. Installing camber kit with additional -1.5degree of negative camber helps to address it
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