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Thread: No response to gas pedal (Update/solved: used CVT replacement)

  1. #41
    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
    Arent you going to get a professional opinion 1st though?
    Nothing wrong with that...but there are a couple of challenges to consider in this case...

    #1: A Mitsubishi-specific scan tool may be required for an in-depth diagnosis. They may need to see data from multiple modules...including the transmission. A private shop may be limited here if their scan tool doesn't work well with Mitsubishi products.

    #2: If you have a condition that a technician can't easily duplicate, they are not going to spend a lot of time trying to find it. That's not how a tech gets paid. He might get paid 45 minutes of time to diagnose the problem (probably more like 30). So he drives the car and it's normal. He pulls the codes...but there aren't any. Well...45 minutes have passed and he isn't getting paid anymore. So you put "unable to verify customer concern" on the work order and you get on to the next job so you can keep getting paid.

    It would be easier to get a first/second opinion if the condition could be easily duplicated first.


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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 52.2 mpg (US) ... 22.2 km/L ... 4.5 L/100 km ... 62.6 mpg (Imp)


  2. #42
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    I've had the same thing happen a few times lately. Like a stumble. The first time, I was on a hill, released the brake, pressed the gas pedal and nothing! A second later, the car took off.
    A few weeks later, at a stop, it idled rough like it was about to stall. I pressed the gas slightly and it smoothed out.
    Then tonight, on a steep hill, the car missed, just like it slipped or something.
    2015 cvt with 91k miles.

    If this crap keeps up, I'm going back to a carburetor

  3. #43
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    If your going up a real steep hill the "B" or low gear, is a life saver reducing the wear on your CVT I believe. Im glad to hear these issues on this thread could be something entirely different than having to buy a brand new $5k CVT.

  4. #44
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    If it were mine, I would do the following:

    1) Check the function of the pedal by OBD. See that the gas demand caused by pushing the pedal actually results in a gas demand to be seen by OBD. Since these pedals have optical sensoring and very seldom have any problems at all, probably it is something else. If you have no OBD gadget, proceed as below.

    2) Check other electrical stuff, like:
    Is the pedal sensor connected properly?
    Does the handbrake warning light function orderly and does it go on and off when you pull and release the lever?

    3) Most important: Check the entire connectors to the left of the drivers left foot for minute signs of corrosion. (See other threads!) These connectors can corrode easily if they get moist, and that will cause havoc. The corrosion is often hardly visible, and frequently occurs between the actual crimped wire and the pin of the connector. You need a very good look and a strong magnifying glass to really check the condition properly.

    Be sure to take your time to have a very thorough look, or you will not see problem-causing corrosion even if you are holding the culprit in your fingers!

    These measures cost nill Dollars and you can do them all yourself!
    Last edited by foama; 04-09-2020 at 06:52 AM.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    OP needs to get a professional assessment and then get back to us. This forum has saved me alot of money this past year thanks to Fummins, Top Fuel, Mark, etc. but I always follow up the quality advice I receive on here with an actual physical diagnosis from my private mechanic. 9 times out of 10, they usually match up.

  6. #46
    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    This thread is becoming slightly repetitive lol don’t you mean moistly?
    So nitpicky. I like it.

    Hey Cwick, time to make a forum Garage entry and start keeping track of all the changes made to your Mirage.

    Garage empty: add car
    Last edited by Eggman; 04-09-2020 at 01:30 PM.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)


  7. #47
    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    No, that's for the seat airbag. And no they don't just blow up on their own with static pixie dust. When you unplug the seat airbag there is a little wire that shorts the circuit going to the bag literally making it impossible for it to go off. Unless of course you cut the wires closer to the airbag itself then supply power and ground to them. I wouldn't run around in wool socks on shag carpet touching the connector on a wheel airbag that doesn't have a wires hanging off it but the likelihood of one going off accidently are slim. I've only had 2 go off accidently, one was while trying to pull out a front end loader with an f150 and a chain hooked to the hitch. That didn't go well. Both front air bags went off when the chain got tight. The other time was when I was setting them off for fun, had a bunch of old crown vic bags laying around. Cut a pigtail from one car and hooked it to a long length of speaker wire, hooked it to a booster pack and boom. I forgot to unhook the booster pack before plugging in a fresh airbag and it went off in my hand. That stung for a minute.

    Got a little sidetracked. The connector I was talking about is under the carpet, you gotta pull the seat to get to it.
    That's why airbag squib wiring connectors get shorting bars - because they are susceptible to static electricity. Few other electrical circuits get this treatment.

    Junkyard science experiments pay off. The More You Know!

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)


  8. #48
    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Reminds me of Dances With Bulls. John Dunbar's Shorting Bars.
    Last edited by Eggman; 04-09-2020 at 04:44 PM.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)


  9. #49
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    My current plan

    Thanks to many of the posts, my plan has been to do the things foama listed, I just haven't had the opportunity yet. Hoping I will have some time tonight.

    I purchased a used gas pedal for $31.60 (includes shipping) on ebay that will be here Monday. This came from a same year mirage with 14k miles on it that had mild rear body damage. I'm not one that likes to chase a problem down a rabbit hole, but it was available, and at that price (autozone had non oem one for $742.99), I felt it was worth a chance. Between my research & what some have posted on here, it's at least possible it could be the culprit. If not, I can return it, minus shipping, or resell it on ebay.

    If problem still persists, I will weigh my options, with one of them being to take it somewhere to see if they can diagnose. I may look into some local mechanics, as I'd prefer not going back to the dealership. When I spoke with their service department yesterday to ask what exactly they did for the recall, I asked if a new gas pedal would require any reprogramming, and how much it would cost if so. They said it wouldn't need to be done. I mentioned something about even with the sensor? They said there is no sensor in the pedal. I said, ok, well not in the pedal, but in the pedal assembly. They said not that I know of..... ?????

    There's no question, I trust the recommendations & information from the people on this forum FAR more than the dealership..... so thank you to all!!!

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Cwick For This Useful Post:

    MetroMPG (04-09-2020)

  11. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Cwick View Post
    It revs in park and neutral, however, there seems to be a slight delay to the rev compared to the push of the pedal.... may just be me thinking there is a delay.
    In N and P, after the initial delay, does the engine rev up quickly (normally), or does it also seem slow to build up revs? If slow, that might point to throttle potentiometer or throttle position sensor as well.

    I've driven a manual car with a bad TPS and it acted similarly to your description.

    The fact that it goes away when you re-start it sure points to an electrical part.


        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 63.2 mpg (US) ... 26.9 km/L ... 3.7 L/100 km ... 75.9 mpg (Imp)


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