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Thread: Is a horn relay required?

  1. #11
    Senior Member mitsumi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggman View Post
    Do you think the new horn has been damaged? What if you put the original horn back in - would it work?
    i doubt the horn is damaged, because last night when the horn stopped working i reseat the fuse from the engine and from the relay and while the engine is off the horn worked.

    but this morning when i started the car its not working.

    i was thinking of changing the fuse to 15amps that is connected from the relay i installed.


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  2. #12
    Senior Member mitsumi's Avatar
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    Ok heres what i did i removed the new horn and put one of my old EC6 horn from the orig wires and the horn works.
    I tested also both of the new horns one a time and both works.
    So the horns are ok.

    My problem is when i connect both horns with the wires i made that has a relay it doesnt seem to work.

    heres the diagram i followed
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    the default Fuse for the oem wiring has a 10amp now i tried using another 10 & 15 amps that connects to the relay but to no avail or do i have to change the fuse from the engine fuse box?

    The first time i installed it it was working now i dont know why it doesnt.

    I even tried connecting the old Ec6 to the wires with relay and it doesnt work.
    Last edited by mitsumi; 11-21-2018 at 08:58 AM.

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  3. #13
    Senior Member mitsumi's Avatar
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    any help?

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage GLS 1.2 manual: 3,108.4 mpg (US) ... 1,321.5 km/L ... 0.1 L/100 km ... 3,733.0 mpg (Imp)


  4. #14
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Where is your "horn wire" coming from? Is the factory horn still in the circuit? When you hit the horn button, what do you read on the "horn wire"? +12? Ground?
    Simplify and add lightness.

  5. #15
    You narrowed it down. I'd say your wiring or relay are no good. The diagram you posted looks alright. What kinda relay are you using? You shouldn't need a bigger fuse just to power a relay if you have it wired like that.

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    Senior Member Mitz's Avatar
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    Hey mitsumi .. just replace your [fried] installed relay .. err .. you mentioned you got a busted fuse earlier..

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    mitsumi (11-22-2018)

  8. #17
    Senior Member mitsumi's Avatar
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    @Mitz
    which relay? the one from the fuse box or the one thats connected to the new wiring i made?

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage GLS 1.2 manual: 3,108.4 mpg (US) ... 1,321.5 km/L ... 0.1 L/100 km ... 3,733.0 mpg (Imp)


  9. #18
    Senior Member mitsumi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren View Post
    Where is your "horn wire" coming from? Is the factory horn still in the circuit? When you hit the horn button, what do you read on the "horn wire"? +12? Ground?
    i removed the old horns.

    heres the relay that im using
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        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage GLS 1.2 manual: 3,108.4 mpg (US) ... 1,321.5 km/L ... 0.1 L/100 km ... 3,733.0 mpg (Imp)


  10. #19
    Senior Member Mitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitsumi View Post
    @Mitz
    which relay? the one from the fuse box or the one thats connected to the new wiring i made?
    The new one.

    As a simple test .. you can switch your DMM to the ohmmeter function and take a reading across the #85 & #86 pins. You should get a resistance value. Do this with the relay removed from the wiring connections. If you get a resistance reading, switch your DMM to the continuity test setting & clip your test probes into the #30 & #87 terminals. Then make a momentary connection to the neg. (-) and pos. (+) of your battery across #85 & #86 pins. You will hear a faint click sound indicating the coil is activated. Your DMM buzzer will sound too if the load contacts are functional.
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    Last edited by Mitz; 11-21-2018 at 11:19 PM.

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  12. #20
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    The point of my question about the horn wire is this:

    If you took a wire directly from the HORN, then it's getting 12v when the horn button is pushed and the stock horn relay activates. In that case, your wiring diagram is correct. 12v on one side of the relay coil, ground on the other. And with the stock horn removed, that should work. (assuming no wiring errors)

    If your "horn wire" is coming directly from the horn button, or on the control side of the stock horn relay, then it could very well be switching GROUND, not 12v. If you're applying a ground when you press the horn button, then your diagram is incorrect. You would need 12v on the other side of the relay coil.

    Gonna side with Eggman on this. Remote troubleshooting is not fun.

    But, let's do a little "divide and conquer".

    You're NOT powering the new horns through the stock relay or fuse. You're merely turning on relay using that circuit. Unless you've messed up your wiring somewhere, that's not going to draw anywhere near 10 amps. That fuse and relay can easily handle the act of turning on another relay.

    You ARE powering the new horns directly from the battery... according to your diagram, without a fuse at all. (you might want to add a fuse in there)

    You can easily test your circuit by simply putting a +12 wire on the 86 terminal. If that doesn't fire the horn, you've got a bad relay or a wiring problem somewhere else. If it DOES fire the horn, then your relay is good and we're back to the question I asked above about where you're getting your "horn wire" from and how it's switching.


    Simplify and add lightness.

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Loren For This Useful Post:

    mitsumi (11-22-2018)

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