oil filter torque spec

[Mark]

I will start using a filter with a grippy surface going forward. Either a FRAM or some of the purolator models. OR I will cut an inch or so from the box and coat the tops of the filter with an undercoating or other rough coating. I'll buy a few at a time and have them ready when I need them. This should make changing from top that much easier. My first oil change with the factory filter was from underneath (car was on a rack) I had to use filter pliers and it was very tight. The second change was from up top and after draining down the factory trough I rotated the filter hole upwards to reduce any spillage.

No matter what you put on the filter to grip it, I wouldn't be able to grab it good enough from the top to loosen or tighten it very well. A 3/8" drive ratchet with a 65 mm / 14 flutes oil filter socket makes the job easy. I could never grip a Mirage oil filter from the top good enough to do the job. I've done 9 oil changes so far. Using the proper tool seems easier to me than coating rough material on every oil filter bought.

If I had access to a lift, I would probably do it from the bottom. I prefer the top without a lift. While I am changing out oil filters, the oil pan in draining. After the job is done (new oil filter on & approximately 3 quarts added), I let the Mirage run for a minute or two. Turn the car off, let the oil settle back down, & top off to the correct level if needed.

Heck, I use an oil filter socket on my Forester, & that oil filter sits on top of the engine near the oil fill hole. I have oil filter band wrenches, too. After changing oil in a variety of things for 30-40 years, you end up with an assortment of tools. I guess I go a little more snug than just a hand crank of the oil filter.

[tomrad]

I've done a dozen or more oil changes on my 2015. Always use a Mitsubishi/Denso filter, been using the MZ690072 with anti drain back valve.
When I spin on the new filter (marked the filter all around to be able to measure 3/4 turn, btw), I make sure I note the EXACT spot where the seal just touches the block. Then, I tighten exactly 3/4 turn. Never a leak, but it feels like it takes a fair grip and twist to get to that 3/4 tight spot. And the filter does specify 3/4 turn, not 1/2 to 3/4.
Sometimes I wonder if 3/4 turn is a bit much, but so far no problem.
The Denso filter, by the way, seals nice with the pre lubed o-ring, and the can touches the block so you can't overtighten and cause a leak.
Oh, and I've found I can tighten the filter from the top or bottom. But, usually requires a twist with the cap wrench to remove, and this is easier from the bottom, I think.

[7milesout]

I've got big ole fat monkey arms too. I just changed the oil on Friday or Saturday. I had left my tools at my parents so I had to reach my big monkey arms down there and twist my guts out, but finally it loosened and came off.

I can't get the right combo of wrenches and extensions to make starting the filter off easy. It is a pain no matter. When I reach down, I have to reach my left arm down to the left of the radiator (facing the engine), and curl it around to the filter.

That radiator hose is a PITA located in front of the filter. My cap / wrench wants to cam-out off the filter. so I put the cap on, and (if I have tools) take a hammer and tap the cap on as best I can. Then I put a wrench on the cap, hold the wrench with my left hand and with my right hand, I snake it down in there somehow and brace the wrench cap to try to keep it from camming out. All I do is get the filter started with the wrench and filter cap, and finish by hand.

I need to figure out an easier wrench, extension and cap combo.

This last time, I just put it on there as tight as my wrist could manage. It was close to 3/4 a turn, per the filter instructions. I checked and it wasn't leaking, so I called it a day.

[Deobulakenyo]

I am sorry to be asking this but I am from the Philippines and we usually do not use the term 3/4 turn.

Does this mean 3/4 of the circumperence of the filter lip?

[mohammad]

I am sorry to be asking this but I am from the Philippines and we usually do not use the term 3/4 turn.

Does this mean 3/4 of the circumperence of the filter lip?

Yes, 3/4 of a turn means 3/4 the circumference of the outside filter housing. You could also think of it as being 75% of one single full turn.

[7milesout]

I am sorry to be asking this but I am from the Philippines and we usually do not use the term 3/4 turn.

Does this mean 3/4 of the circumperence of the filter lip?

Sorry Deo - mohammad is correct. 3/4 in this case means 75%. In the U.S., filters are (generally) sold with a small sticker on the outside. If one picks up an oil filter for the first time and tries to decipher the sticker, it may be nearly impossible to understand what it's trying to say.

But anywho, one of the sticker's instructions is to tighten the filter only 75% of 1 full turn tighter, AFTER the gasket is felt to touch. That gasket touch is very important. So, spin on the filter by hand. When you think you feel the gasket touch, go back and forth (tighter, looser) until you're sure it is the gasket starting to touch. Once you are sure, turn it 75% (less than) of another full turn, and leave it there. Gasket material makers specify a range of compression to their gasket material to a) get the job of sealing done, and b) not to damage or deform the gasket material. Evidently 75% of a full turn compresses the gasket into the specified compression zone.

I've never had a leak doing it this way. On this previous oil change, I'm not sure my big monkey arms were able to get a full 3/4 turn on the filter, but it should have been close. But I didn't have my tools. It must have been good enough. I always crank up the engine and watch for a leak, and it didn't leak this time either.

Good luck.

[Mirageman38]

As I mentioned before I used to exclusively do oil changes while on ramps from the bottom using only my hand to remove the filter but I had to remove the bottom panel. I decided a couple weeks ago I didn't want to kill myself doing this and I got a Fumoto valve and a Bastex 12 inch oil filter wrench.

With the wrench it only has about 10 degrees of clearance to grip the filter from the top and turn, but this is enough to break the filter free with no struggle. I still don't understand how people can easily install a new filter from the top since the hose blocks all the space to get the filters in or out. It was a struggle to get the old one out from the top and I decided to put the new one on from the bottom. At least I didn't have to remove the plastic panel this time.

[craigq]

Yeah I tried removing/installing the oil filter from the top but it's a no-go for me. I've resigned myself to the fact I have to access it from below, removing that "splash shield" along with the bash plate for the starter. I don't like oil drips on my garage floor and oil really likes to collect on the plate. Love the Subaru oil filter location on the current generation of engines (and most of the VAG engines too for that fact).

[Mark]

Yeah I tried removing/installing the oil filter from the top but it's a no-go for me. I've resigned myself to the fact I have to access it from below, removing that "splash shield" along with the bash plate for the starter. I don't like oil drips on my garage floor and oil really likes to collect on the plate. Love the Subaru oil filter location on the current generation of engines (and most of the VAG engines too for that fact).

You couldn't get the oil filter off from the top using an oil filter socket and ratchet drive?

[craigq]

You couldn't get the oil filter off from the top using an oil filter socket and ratchet drive?

Too messy, with the rad hoses in the way etc. I have to get under regardless to satisfy my OCD with trying to keep things clean.