DIY! Snapped clutch cable remove & replace

[tytotheler92]

Still rather shift my own gears. lol.

I also like that clutch is always the same in these, regardless of temperature. Well, except sometimes the clutch seems grabbier cold but that could be me shivering in the morning, who knows. LOL.

Quick Google Search found this - https://www.ebay.com/itm/302908332786

Looks like the part actually stayed the same, or is atleast interchangeable. Looks like a mountain bike brake cable.

[MetroMPG]

If a guy had a small length of cable could it be rigged up in a pinch somehow mcgivor style to limp home?

No roadside macgyvering/limping required!

1) select first gear
2) depress clutch pedal (to close clutch safety switch)
3) start engine -- car immediately starts moving
4) shift gears clutchless as required (it's not that hard, but takes practice if you want to be able to do it reliably without grinding. The key is matching appropriate engine RPM to the desired gear, either up or downshifting. It shifts best into N and into the next gear under light load. I'm sure there are YouTube videos that demonstrate all this.)
5) when you need to come to a full stop, pop it into neutral while coasting, then shut the engine off when you stop
6) return to step 1

You could leave it in 1st gear and "limp along" if you didn't want to shift gears. May not be practical, depending on conditions.

[Fummins]

I've had to go drive back trucks back to the shop when the clutch master cylinder or slave gave up the ghost and drivers had no idea what to do. Once was across the city, everything was great til I had to stop at a red light on a slight incline, it was pretty sketchy. It barely had enough power to get it to moving.

[Cobrajet]

No roadside macgyvering/limping required!

1) select first gear
2) depress clutch pedal (to close clutch safety switch)
3) start engine -- car immediately starts moving
4) shift gears clutchless as required (it's not that hard, but takes practice if you want to be able to do it reliably without grinding. The key is matching appropriate engine RPM to the desired gear, either up or downshifting. It shifts best into N and into the next gear under light load. I'm sure there are YouTube videos that demonstrate all this.)
5) when you need to come to a full stop, pop it into neutral while coasting, then shut the engine off when you stop
6) return to step 1

You could leave it in 1st gear and "limp along" if you didn't want to shift gears. May not be practical, depending on conditions.

This is exactly what I did. It is a bit trickier with the FAST key because the starter does not want to disengage until the engine has started normally, which it won't be doing. It will be lugging the car forward in gear, which is interpreted by the FAST key system as an engine that is sputtering and needs to be cranked more. So you have to give it a little throttle while the starter is turning to get it to disengage. Very tricky.

[Pryme]

No roadside macgyvering/limping required!

1) select first gear
2) depress clutch pedal (to close clutch safety switch)
3) start engine -- car immediately starts moving
4) shift gears clutchless as required (it's not that hard, but takes practice if you want to be able to do it reliably without grinding. The key is matching appropriate engine RPM to the desired gear, either up or downshifting. It shifts best into N and into the next gear under light load. I'm sure there are YouTube videos that demonstrate all this.)
5) when you need to come to a full stop, pop it into neutral while coasting, then shut the engine off when you stop
6) return to step 1

You could leave it in 1st gear and "limp along" if you didn't want to shift gears. May not be practical, depending on conditions.

Yeah I used to shift my mustang without the clutch back in the day. We talked about that subject in a thread on here once.
Although I've never started a car in first without a clutch, usually it would just lunge forward.

[Eggman]

Hey Cobrajet did you get your cable yet?

[Cobrajet]

Hey Cobrajet did you get your cable yet?

Noooooooooooooope. But according to their tracking, it is "ready to ship". I am sure it is being drop-shipped from somewhere, but they are taking their time.

[Top_Fuel]

I think I'm going to order one just to have it available as a spare. I probably won't need it anytime soon, but I'd rather have it on hand if/when it finally lets go. I may just swap it out when I reach 100k miles.

[Cobrajet]

I think I'm going to order one just to have it available as a spare. I probably won't need it anytime soon, but I'd rather have it on hand if/when it finally lets go. I may just swap it out when I reach 100k miles.

All of this is a very good idea. Truth be told, it was my plan to order a spare and have it sitting on the shelf after reading about similar failures on cars with far fewer miles than mine. I just never did, primarily because I figured I would find a used one in a wrecking yard long before I ever actually needed it. I was wrong.

Order it. Order it soon. Don't do what I did and procrastinate, thinking that you have the one clutch cable that is made of 'indestructium' and will never fail. It is cheap insurance just to have it in the garage, ready to go. Replacing as a preventative measure around 100k is an even better idea.

As of right now, you can't just run to O'Reilly's or AutoZone and grab one of these off the shelf if yours breaks. You either have to order it at a dealership, pay $100, and wait 3-5 days, or order it from an online Mitsubishi parts house, pay $70, and wait 7-10 days.

Neither is a good option if you are relying on the car. It is an $80 part that tends to fail catastrophically...and without warning...which only takes 30 minutes to change. Have a spare.

[Top_Fuel]

...or order it from an online Mitsubishi parts house, pay $70, and wait 7-10 days.

I just ordered one. For once in my life I'll plan ahead...LOL.