Front hub grease?

[strawboss]

Yeah, I have to chuckle at the You Tubers in Arizona or California working on 20 year old machines.....no rust to speak of.

Of course I could wash my vehicles more, that would probably help, Lol!
I applied some anti seize to the new sensor, avoiding the 'business end'!

[strawboss]

Wow...I knew they got stuck but I didn't know it was that bad. Great tip! I have a feeling a lot of Mirage owners will be referencing your post in the future.

I got both sensors out of my 2015 when I did my wheel bearings last year...but I was lucky. My car (see below) hardly has any suspension rust and is always garaged. Both of my sensors were still stuck! I was able to use pliers and slowly started working each sensor back and forth in the hole. They barely moved at first. After doing this about 5-10 minutes on each sensor (with some penetrating oil) they finally came out.

If you have a daily driver Mirage used where there is a real winter, your sensors will probably be rusted in place after 2-3 years.

My advice for anyone with a newer Mirage: Spend 2 minutes to remove these sensors and put some anti-seize or dielectric grease in the sensor mounting hole. The sensors are easily accessible whenever the front wheels are off. Just remove a single 10mm bolt and they will slide right out...

Attachment 25942

I run snow tires so have 2 opportunities a season to do this PM, too bad I didn't know how badly these units seized up until it was too late.

But now that I know....a little dab'll do ya!

Still have the other side to do,just gonna shop around for a better price for a new sensor.
$144 Cdn plus tax.

[strawboss]

Well I had plugged the new speed sensor in a couple of days ago just to ensure it would put out the abs/tc lights on the dash, which it did.

So I had to bleed the brakes because I had opened a banjo bolt on a caliper by accident, good excuse to renew the brake fluid anyways, all seemed fine until I started the car for the first test drive and the abs/tc lights are back on,

First thing I did was to check the new sensor and it seems fine at 4.51 Mohms.

I do hear a new noise from under the dash when I hit the brake pedal, almost like a rattle, weird sound that lasts a second but I can only describe as when you take a deck of cards and flip the deck with your thumb but very briefly.


I'll check the brake lights next....

[Fummins]

Is it the abs kicking in? Wonder if you got a crap ton of air in the system somehow. Did the master cylinder run dry when you were bleeding the brakes? If it wasn't broke before

[strawboss]

Is it the abs kicking in? Wonder if you got a crap ton of air in the system somehow. Did the master cylinder run dry when you were bleeding the brakes? If it wasn't broke before

I didn't run the MC dry, I don't think I got a lot of air in the system, I use a one man power bleeder.

Might be a coincidence but I pulled a code using my scangauge that read P2252 an O2 sensor issue, and the engine runs rough intermittently, never did that before.

I pulled the DS kick panel where the nasty plugs/harness's reside and checked for corrosion, didn't see any but sprayed some DeOxit 5 on the pins/sockets just in case.

Is the stop light switch difficult to access? I'm old and creaky so anything under dash is a pia for me.....

I pulled the 'new' wheel speed sensor to check for physical damage, it looks fine.

Oh, and the brake lights work.

And twice the idiot lights went out briefly, 1st time for a second with no drama, but the 2nd time the lights went out and the abs system activated briefly.

[Fummins]

Weird, I haven't seen that code before. The brake light switch is relatively easy to get to. You have to remove or partially remove the plastic cover thing that's held in with some phillips head plastic clips(2 at the bottom of the dash and one near the gas pedal). Then you should be able to see the brake switch, or at least feel it. It's a twist and remove deal.

[strawboss]

Weird, I haven't seen that code before. The brake light switch is relatively easy to get to. You have to remove or partially remove the plastic cover thing that's held in with some phillips head plastic clips(2 at the bottom of the dash and one near the gas pedal). Then you should be able to see the brake switch, or at least feel it. It's a twist and remove deal.

Thanks for the clip, now I know what the clicking noise under the dash is, the transmission lockout solenoid! Funny I never noticed that sound before.....I'll pull the switch and check it out

[strawboss]

The brake switch appears to be fine, I'm gonna call it a night after I unhook the battery and let it sit overnight, maybe it just needs a reset?

Edited to add; Reconnected the battery this morning, idiot lights are still on.

[strawboss]

I'm confused (nothing new there).

You pulled the hubs out of the front wheel bearings? So are you replacing the wheel bearings?

I think my attempt at reusing the bearing isn't working as the abs/tc system isn't happy now, I didn't know the bearing had a magnetic insert for pickup by the wheel speedsensor, my last car had a castellated tone ring.

[Top_Fuel]

Does that bearing have any play in it?