No power steering/ Electrical Issue

[The..me]

That's a one in a million issue. The blue ones generally NEVER have any issues.

A couple questions I don't think were asked in this thread.

Have you replaced any exterior bulbs with LED bulbs?

Do you have anything connected to your OBD connector?

Nope.

[The..me]

Also been having issues driving through puddles just started battery light comes on then goes off, belt was squealing though. Thanks for the replies I am going to try all of the above.

[7milesout]

Starting to sound like a belt tension issue. After 7 or 8 years of service, it wouldn't hurt to get a fresh delicious new belt, and then install it using the tension guide video mentioned previously in this thread.

[The..me]

Sorry about that last post, it didn't make much sense.

I guess first thing I'd do is see if it's charging. Throw a volt meter on the battery with the engine running and post what it says, then go from there. If it's around 15 volts then it's probably a broken wire in that harness along the top of the intake. They usually break around one of the two zip ties above the intake. I undo the zip ties and slice the harness open the entire way and look closely at every wire. Iirc, usually one of the small wires from the alternator wear through and hang on by a few strands.

As to why the abs/brake lights are on ...it might be related or not. Check both brake light bulbs. When both burn out they throw codes and can make car act up. If that's not it, check for codes. Could be anything from abs sensor to wheel bearing.

The kick panel connector corrosioin usually affects the lowermost connector, it's below the floor level. You can unplug is then unclip the part that stays in the junction block and push it out(towards the firewall), spin it around and look at the backside of the plug. Just the slightest traces of green can cause tons of problems.

The power steering problem is hopefully just caused by the battery light/undercharging?

It was running 15.7v when autozone tested the original alternator. I just took all the tape off the harness past the second zip tie could not find anything. I charged the battery yesterday charger said it was all charged up, I would think I would have had power steering for a little bit.

[Fummins]

Attachment 26417

[Fummins]

I'd keep checking out that harness along the front of the engine. You were on the right track, keep pulling it apart a little further around the side of the head to the next(third) zip tie spot. Double and triple check every wire one more time, even just a pinched looking wire can be broken inside. You might have to pull the air cleaner to get to the next zip tie. I just found a video clip when I was wiggling wires under the hood trying to figure out the same problem that you're having. The battery and brake warning light were both on and went out because of that red wire in the above post^. I couldn't tell if the abs light was on too but could have been. It was 4 years ago and I forgot stuff.

[The..me]

I'd keep checking out that harness along the front of the engine. You were on the right track, keep pulling it apart a little further around the side of the head to the next(third) zip tie spot. Double and triple check every wire one more time, even just a pinched looking wire can be broken inside. You might have to pull the air cleaner to get to the next zip tie. I just found a video clip when I was wiggling wires under the hood trying to figure out the same problem that you're having. The battery and brake warning light were both on and went out because of that red wire in the above post^. I couldn't tell if the abs light was on too but could have been. It was 4 years ago and I forgot stuff.

Oh brother, I just taped it all back up grrrrrr I was looking for obvious corrosion. no way to do an ohm meter checking for continuity doesn't look like either. I was wondering about that third tie way in the back around the corner.
Oh well tape is cheap.

BTW also my parking brake light won't go off, it's probably the same light though, as if you had a fluid leak or something. Probably won't be able to look at this again until tomorrow. It is getting dark and its 16 degrees out.

Just so ya know I have found this site invaluable at times my heater core plugged up a few years ago me and a buddy got that fixed using the info on here, , changing fluid on the transmission etc. I appreciate the help very much.

[Fummins]

The brake light could be one because of that wire. I was going through my pics to find the one that was eaten from this thread https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...ttery-Light-On I found a video made on the same day showing the battery and brake warning light flickering. I assume that wire caused both problems.

[The..me]

Starting to sound like a belt tension issue. After 7 or 8 years of service, it wouldn't hurt to get a fresh delicious new belt, and then install it using the tension guide video mentioned previously in this thread.

I put a new belt on with the new alternator, after searching online how to tighten it, someone had a decent write up, they said find the longest span of the belt and twist it 90 degrees in the middle of span. if you can't twist it that much its too tight, if you can twist it more than 90 degrees its too loose. Seem to work good no squeals in the driveway. we'll see when we get back on the road with it.

[The..me]

Sorry about that last post, it didn't make much sense.

I guess first thing I'd do is see if it's charging. Throw a volt meter on the battery with the engine running and post what it says, then go from there. If it's around 15 volts then it's probably a broken wire in that harness along the top of the intake. They usually break around one of the two zip ties above the intake. I undo the zip ties and slice the harness open the entire way and look closely at every wire. Iirc, usually one of the small wires from the alternator wear through and hang on by a few strands.

As to why the abs/brake lights are on ...it might be related or not. Check both brake light bulbs. When both burn out they throw codes and can make car act up. If that's not it, check for codes. Could be anything from abs sensor to wheel bearing.

The kick panel connector corrosioin usually affects the lowermost connector, it's below the floor level. You can unplug is then unclip the part that stays in the junction block and push it out(towards the firewall), spin it around and look at the backside of the plug. Just the slightest traces of green can cause tons of problems.

The power steering problem is hopefully just caused by the battery light/undercharging?

I can't get the connector in the junction box out searching online got me nowhere. i got a little screwdriver in where it looks like it should go and pried this way and that way while pushing towards firewall. ???

like, I got the wires unclipped, that part. no dice getting to look at rear of this connector. you probably knew what I meant.

Going out to take the tape back off and remove air cleaner while waiting for reply. any tips on that connector appreciated. seems like I saw someone take the whole box off i don't wanna break anything. there is a recall on that junction box connector BTW.