Cold Weather CVT

[OrganicFoxes]

https://cdmg.com.au/wp-content/uploa...T-FLUID-J4.pdf

This Mitsubishi CVTF-J4 Fluid is Mineral Oil. And I cannot find a PDS on this product nor a VOA. Just the SDS (MSDS)

What I can find is a dozen Synthetics who's range of -40 C/F viscosities range 9.4 to 14 Poise. And about a 15-degree range in pour point. One SDS from Ravenol:

https://www.ravenol.de/storage/app/u...132_en_ALL.pdf

It would appear then that differences in pour point and -40C viscosities are primarily the result of the amount of PAO blended with a Group III base stock. More POA = lower pour point and lower -40C viscosity.

As the Mitsubishi fluid is mostly Mineral oil (70-79% by SDS) the just about anything would be an improvement in cold weather performance. Well, and oxidation resistance as well.

I note that on the Red Line site that 30K for their offering is considered an Extended Drain Interval.

Stuff is, viscosity wise, a 0W16. Oh well, a fun look anyway.

I have a water bottle filled to about 1/4 with some cvt fluid sitting on my deck outside to mess with in different temperatures. Today has been the coldest day since I have had it out there. 17F and it it still flows pretty damn fast, I do not see it being problem in cold weather at least in my climate. In the negative temps it might be a different story.

[7milesout]

Back in the day, early 60's, as they say, some automatics in park, a pawl, did so disabling the pump while in park and this would mean the trans would burn up in time as the main shaft spun without lubrication. Chrysler's early Torqflite in example. That lead generally to the practice being discontinued.

I got me one of them Torqflites, in my Scamp. A 727. When the engine is cold (not the weather necessarily), I crank it, and quickly I shift it to Neutral. Not that I think I'm really preventing damage, I've just always thought it to be better to have it in Neutral, flowing fluid, getting things stirred around. Kind of like stirring mayonnaise before knifing some out onto bread. In any event, it generally barks the tires on the garage floor when I drop it into Reverse, that and because it is choked and slightly revved up past idle.

When I cranked up the Blueberry this morning (I park it outside), it said it was 16°F. That's the coldest I've experienced with the Blueberry. It was noticeably sluggish. I can't imagine what you guys deal with in sub-zero weather.

[Fummins]

I'm gonna go with this guy on this one https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...5/post-1083885

[Fummins]

I was wondering as use of a quality synthetic of PAO base in a GM 6L80E vs the ACDelco Group III fluid has a remarkable effect on its cold weather performance. More fluid at lower temperatures means a better working valve-body. Have you noticed such a difference?

We've only had a few vehicles with the 6l80, one piled up on the highway got rebuilt(scabbed) by https://www.napc.ca/ and didn't get a year out of it before the exact same problem happened. Used whatever klondike brand dexron IV, VI or whatever spec it called for, I can't remember. I don't drive them, I just maintain them. I guess I could toss some bottles of transmission fluid out in a snow bank and pour them out the next day to see what it looks like.
The only data I have is the 3 2006-2007 4l80's seemed to hold up great and the one 2010 vehicle with a 6l80 died twice.

[Grumpy Bear]

I'm gonna go with this guy on this one https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...5/post-1083885

We'll get there. Fluid is diverted to the pan skipping the cooling circuit and torque converter. HEAT. So pump is running, but fluid diverted. Evidently there are some valve body kits that address this.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/15...ueflite-trans/

Keep It Cool, Heat is the Enemy

Ron says it is vital to check the transmission fluid level with the fluid warm and the engine idling in neutral. Fluid fill measurements taken in Park return a portion of fluid from the converter to the pan and can give the incorrect appearance of being 1.5 to 2 quarts over-full! If you accept this bogus reading you'll really be running that amount low. Always check the fluid level in Neutral. And make sure your dipstick assembly is correctly matched to the reality presented by your oil pan choice.

[Grumpy Bear]

We've only had a few vehicles with the 6l80, one piled up on the highway got rebuilt(scabbed) by https://www.napc.ca/ and didn't get a year out of it before the exact same problem happened. Used whatever klondike brand dexron IV, VI or whatever spec it called for, I can't remember. I don't drive them, I just maintain them. I guess I could toss some bottles of transmission fluid out in a snow bank and pour them out the next day to see what it looks like.
The only data I have is the 3 2006-2007 4l80's seemed to hold up great and the one 2010 vehicle with a 6l80 died twice.

The converter in the V8 models has clutch issues that grenade them sending junk to the pump and killing the entire box. GM knows and does nothing about it but replace transmissions. The ones that don't make the 60K warranty that is. The V6 6L80E has a captive clutch system in the converter and is trouble free. Life can be added to the V8 units by installing the new 70C TBV or flipping the pill and adding more cooler to the pre 2017 units.