Yet Another (possible) CVT issue

[iamSkanob]

I've got bad news gents, MY14 @103767kms I have just experience my acceleration pedal going thru, without response, just yesterday. Luckily, it happened after exiting from the freeway and I was able to stop on the side of the road.

Last night, with research, I've experienced all major possible symptoms prior to this. i.e. limp mode, 1 bulb from tail light busted (removed, will replace all once finished from work), etc.

I always have thought that the hesitation on changing gears/acceleration is due to fuel filter being bad. I already have used Petrol Injector cleaner (almost every service). Even put 1 bottle last night.

With my use of it, I barely even do 9000kms per year with this as this is literally a home-work car. Always driving with the mindset of eggs (we do have a home cake business) / or granny at the back. So no racing, at all.

The mysterious thing about it is the CVT fluid has been flushed (without changing the filters) just 6 months ago, with throttle body cleaned. Used Penrite CVT FLUID LOW VISCOSITY (Full Syn)

I have chosen this fluid since I believe this is more "premium" than other brands in AUS, especially here in WA. It may not be fully compatible....?

Observations:
The car (CVT) seems to be working fine as long as I don't suddenly press on the acceleration, or go over 2000rpm (thats how I got back home), WITHOUT having any other instruments on (no AC @ 40c in Perth!!!, no radio, no lights)

To do after work/over the weekend:
Flush CVT
Change both filters (still to be picked up from Veale Autoparts after work, no clue as to what the brand is)
Use Valvoline SYNPOWER CVT LV (still trying to source), as I saw @fummins use these from other posts
ordered (he don't use valvoline, refer below) fuel filter strainer (as I saw on one of the posts, these seem to be the compatible one)

P.S.

Is it because of the "age" of these the reason why they're failing, and not the kms "used"...? That does not make any sense.

[Eggman]

40c in Perth!!!

This might be a contributing factor. Refer to the following thread: What are safe CVT temperatures? Especially the second post in the thread.

[Fummins]

What color is the fluid? What is it doing, not reving up when you hit the throttle? Do you have a check engine light. Scan for codes. That fluid you used should be fine. I’ve never used valvoline fluid or motorcycle fuel pump strainers on a Mirage.
Find out what codes you have. I’ll dig up a thread that might help. Could be as simple as valve body needing to be cleaned out or replaced. If you do drop the pan and find metal then it’s toast though.

[Fummins]

The car I had issues with wouldn't rev up, or wouldn't drive. If they restarted it, it would drive ok for a little bit then act up again. It had about 233k kms at the time. It was throwing a p0746 code. I initially replaced the fluid and both filters. It worked for half a day. I cleaned the valve body and it was good for a few more days. In the end I replaced the valve body with one from a car that had a bearing pile up in the cvt. It's been good since and now has 450k kms.

These cvt's can be pretty finicky about proper fluid level. The one way to be sure to get a pretty good basline level is drain via plug with car sitting level. You should get 2.5L out of it, refill with 2.5L and you should be fine.

[iamSkanob]

Apologies for the late reply gents, and ladies.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to do anything over the weekend, apart from changing all tail lights (which didn't make any difference).

I also had to wait for my BT OBD2 Scanner for codes (got veepeak BLE), and used multiple apps to scan for codes. Unfortunately, either no code or didn't have any to start with. Refer below:
CarScanner:


CVTz50:


Infocar:


I will try to monitor the CVT temp while driving today after work. change of plan, i'll have to use company vehicle today. I will try to get data some other day.

Edit:
Doing a bit more research with regards to CVT "flushing", this may be where we could have a problem with "mixing" oils. As apparently, to properly flush without additional tools, is to drain the CVT - TWICE (of course, changing and letting the gear on different positions for atleast 10 seconds), to fully replenish everything along the line..? Is this true..? As previously, we just put the pan down (with OEM fluuid), then refilled with 3rd party above. No filter change. What do you guys think of this procedure?

P.P.S.
I have read somewhere as well that the mirage uses "heat exchange" via the engine. my engine oil might play a part on this too. As recommended in Penrite's website, i used 5W-30 on it now. Maybe I should have gone for the 5W-40 as it is hitting 40c in Perth these recent days, and possibly coming of days too. Is this hunch have gravity in it..? I do remember now that my wife's MY14 Outlander CVT 2.0L has been serviced with cvt oil change (although used oem still) and engine oil 5w-40 in it. And that works fine. I understand that it doesn't use the same cvt.

I am now planning on getting engine oil (5W-40) and transmission oil(going to still try the penrite, giving it a chance of possible cause of "mixing" cvt oils) done as soon as I get the chance.

Additional observation, I still drive the car (believe me, I do not have any other choice as of now), without letting it go over 2k rpm, fuel mileage now is terrible even though avg L/100kms on the dash is ave 6.5 - 6.9. I can feel the cvt going as soon as I notice that the ECO light turns off, and an intial rise on RPM, then would just not respond.

I feel idle and running rpm are now on the higher side. will get data as soon as I can.

[2024mirage]

I've got bad news gents, MY14 @103767kms I have just experience my acceleration pedal going thru, without response, just yesterday. Luckily, it happened after exiting from the freeway and I was able to stop on the side of the road.

Last night, with research, I've experienced all major possible symptoms prior to this. i.e. limp mode, 1 bulb from tail light busted (removed, will replace all once finished from work), etc.

I always have thought that the hesitation on changing gears/acceleration is due to fuel filter being bad. I already have used Petrol Injector cleaner (almost every service). Even put 1 bottle last night.

With my use of it, I barely even do 9000kms per year with this as this is literally a home-work car. Always driving with the mindset of eggs (we do have a home cake business) / or granny at the back. So no racing, at all.

The mysterious thing about it is the CVT fluid has been flushed (without changing the filters) just 6 months ago, with throttle body cleaned. Used Penrite CVT FLUID LOW VISCOSITY (Full Syn)

I have chosen this fluid since I believe this is more "premium" than other brands in AUS, especially here in WA. It may not be fully compatible....?

Observations:
The car (CVT) seems to be working fine as long as I don't suddenly press on the acceleration, or go over 2000rpm (thats how I got back home), WITHOUT having any other instruments on (no AC @ 40c in Perth!!!, no radio, no lights)

To do after work/over the weekend:
Flush CVT
Change both filters (still to be picked up from Veale Autoparts after work, no clue as to what the brand is)
Use Valvoline SYNPOWER CVT LV (still trying to source), as I saw @fummins use these from other posts
ordered (he don't use valvoline, refer below) fuel filter strainer (as I saw on one of the posts, these seem to be the compatible one)

P.S.

Is it because of the "age" of these the reason why they're failing, and not the kms "used"...? That does not make any sense.

Oh darn...

My guess is fluid mixing.. this transmission from what I know takes 7 liters of fluid. Which requires 15 liters of flushes to get 90 something percent of the fluid out. If you only drained 2.5 liters and put another kind of fluid than what was in there. Could definitely be the culprit. Plus you mentioned 40 degrees, were you on it? 4+k rpm or generally giving it load for a while? It could also be the valve body I am learning that these transmissions are rather interesting but generally reliable!

[iamSkanob]

What color is the fluid?

Color seems alright for me, not "too" dark for me regarding oil mixing:

What is it doing, not reving up when you hit the throttle? Do you have a check engine light. Scan for codes.

Yes, but engine was still running. No check engine light, gear indicator not flashing or anything, no codes.

I do have data now from my drive yesterday, aircon on, fan on 3, temp on lowest, no light, radio on:

Since my car don't have temp sensor on front, we'll go by forecasted temp.

First drive approx 45min, ambient 39c, cvt oil highest is 104c:


Second drive approx 35min, ambient 33c, cvt oil highest is 93c:


Observation:
The hotter the cvt oil is, the more I feel that the cvt/car is struggling to "push". I had to do a steady climb from slow to target speed (100km/h). Sudden acceleration will result in pedal just going through.

Could be as simple as valve body needing to be cleaned out or replaced. If you do drop the pan and find metal then it’s toast though.

I'll let you know was soon as I have changed the fluid.

With above, will this be a combination of engine (5w-30) and cvt overheating? I read on some post that the cvt can tolerate up to 135c fluid temp, thats when the gear indicator will start flashing and will go to limp mode...?

P.S.
Anyone experiencing a big "thud" both sound and physical jutter when putting the car in Reverse gear...?

[Fummins]

https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...v-up-when-warm

[iamSkanob]

https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...v-up-when-warm

Thanks for that mate. That was quite a read.

With a lot of new information, I've got a new plan:

- Change engine oil (5w-40) (might as well as this is due for March anyways)
- Change cvt oil (still use the penrite one), properly this time, twice drain, possibly 3, with both filters replaced
- Manual re-learn

Currently contemplating to do a coolant flush. Now trying to figure out where to do that manual re-learn.

Edit:
Dumb question, how many RPM is 1/8 throttle? As idle rpm should be ~600rpm (right?). So if we could max @ 4000rpm, then deduct no throttle with 600rpm, then 1/8 is 12.5% of throttle which adds 425rpm. So I should be running @ ~1025rpm to reach said speed for relearn...?

E.Edit:
Is that the gear ratio value on CVTz50...?