Originally Posted by
old mechanic
I went in Home Depot today and they had 5/16 galvanized steel rod for a few bucks in a 3 foot length. Also need a 5/16th turnbuckle. My turnbuckle is 9 inches in length. The right side rod is 27.5 inches, left side is 2.5 inches. Each rod has a hook on each end that is not included in the listed lengths, each hook requiring about 1.5 inches in rod length in addition to the listed 27.5 and 2.5 inches. 1@36 inch rod should barely do it with nothing left over.
When you get the parts assembled and everything hooked up, the turnbuckle is staggered to the left side and the position of each end on the lower spring perch allows clearance to the evaporative emissions unit handing under the spare tire well.
To compensate for cross toe, move one end links location nearer the rear of the lower spring perch on the side needing more toe out correction.
I might just go back to the local alignment shop and see if I can get the toe to hold 0 degrees with a come-along and get rid of the rods and turnbuckle permanently.
Tire wear is perfect. At 10k miles the fronts are down 1/32 inch, rears are slightly more than half that. That means the fronts will go 60k to the wear bars, rears even longer. I'll probably rotate them at 20k miles when the fronts should be at 6/32 and rears at 7/32 inch (new is 8/32nd).
When I tweaked the left stub axle, I did not remove the toe compensation rod assembly. Floor jack under the spring perch, pop off the wheel and the axle nut, pull the drum-hub assembly off, slide the pipe over the axle and stand on the other end of the pipe. That cut the right side from -2.1 down to -.7. Left side was 1.7, maybe we'll see what the left side camber is if I go back to an alignment shop.
-.3 to-.4 would be just about perfect.
regards
mech
quick question: in your professional opinion how much of this due to axle and how much of it due to mounting point misalignment?
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