Rear Wheel Misaligned? (UPDATE: some rear axles out of spec; warranty replacement)

[ComputerAbuser]

I hope this was fixed on the 2017. I don't expect them to announce that it was corrected, because then they would have to admit that there was a problem to start with.

[obrother]

For those wondering what's the easiest way to do this yourself:

Get 2 3.0 US FOOT sections of 1/4inch diameter galvanized steel cable with a Working Load Limit of 1600 pounds or more.
Get 12 1/4inch clamps
Get one heavy duty 1/4 inch turnbuckle with both closed eye holes rated for 1800 lbs (varies, some will be rated lower)

Total cost at Lowes: $20
Total cost at Home Depot: $16

Then string each of your 3 foot sections through the hole that runs top-to-bottom in the rear axle just behind where the rear axle stub is welded; behind and forward slightly of the lower spring perches. This is a much stronger area, and will place the load in a downward - inward position, reducing camber and toe-in. This also gives the steel cable a much larger and stronger area of surface to contact, to prevent bending, and bending the steel cable beyond it's recommended angles.

Then clamp. Remember, proper steel cable clamping is 3 clamps per dead-end. Always put the live-end (the part of the cable holding tension) in the bottom of the clamps, then loop the dead ends over-top of that position. Then clamp shut with about 35-lb.ft of torque. Too much may actually damage the cable.

You will need to start with your turnbuckle completely out, as the cable will take up slack until you start reaching about 150 Lbs of tension.

For a toe-in of 0.40 it took ~380 lbs of tension to correct to 0.17 and ~470 lbs of tension to bring it to 0.05

You need a robust system as during typical driving, you will place loads upwards of 700 lbs on your steel cable around sharp turns, and large bumps, as the twist-beam axle will attempt to "twist" or deform, and your cables will attempt to prevent that from happening.

Ironically, handling is actually greatly improved with this cable system, as it stiffens up the rear axle quite a bit.

Cables can be deadly, always practice proper rigging techniques.
Properly inspect your cables before every drive.
I am not responsible for anything that occurs directly and/or indirectly as a result of this technique described above. You assume all risks. Be safe.

I have a picture showing what I did, I'll add more as I get time to.
Attachment 4717

-B

I'm considering doing this mod myself. My rear is only out about 0.21 on each side almost even for total toe of 0.42. The only thing I'm concerned about is the lack of "give" when one wheel ends up higher than the other. That puts alot of tension on the whole setup. I was thinking about finding an extension spring using your tension findings and incorporating it into the rig. I have looking into what springs might work and have found drawbar springs in the link below and snow plow trip springs although I can't find the tension rating on any of them. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?


I was thinking something like this...
https://www.centuryspring.com/Store/...kNumber=DB7015

[Eggman]

Have not tried 4 adults but when I pull down on the rear of the car,both toe and camber gets worse.

Then why not lift the rear? I'm thinking spring spacers here.

Amazon.com: Superior 18-1901 Donut Style Coil Spring Spacer

I wonder if this would help alleviate two problems:
1. Excessive toe-in
2. Handling

Shouldn't be too expensive.

[91cavgt]

Then why not lift the rear? I'm thinking spring spacers here.

Amazon.com: Superior 18-1901 Donut Style Coil Spring Spacer

I wonder if this would help alleviate two problems:
1. Excessive toe-in
2. Handling

Shouldn't be too expensive.

I have those in the rear springs of my mirage. All it does for me is make the rear suspension bottoming out be less painful. I normally carry a lot of things in the hatch of my mirage so it tends to bottom out quit easily.

[Eggman]

I have those in the rear springs of my mirage. All it does for me is make the rear suspension bottoming out be less painful. I normally carry a lot of things in the hatch of my mirage so it tends to bottom out quit easily.

Cool - the voice of experience. I was hoping to get this kind of feedback.

I'm going to guess that every now and then you are driving unloaded. In your view, how have your spacers affected handling and maybe even the alignment?

It's gotta be good for either +10 horsepower or +10 mpg.

[Eggman]

Another tire rated well by C.R. is the Cooper CS5 Grand Touring . That has a B.T.A. rating for rolling resistance along with good traction , ride , and low noise .

I bought a set of these (for our 2009 Ford Fusion) and they are a fine tire. Made in Tupelo, MS.

http://www.moderntiredealer.com/arti...-touring-tires

[Marklovski]

So this is a common problem? My steering seems to be fine. I don't even have to hold the wheel and it goes straight smh.

[inuvik]

So this is a common problem? My steering seems to be fine. I don't even have to hold the wheel and it goes straight smh.

Mine's the same way. Tracks straight and the wheel is centered and I can let go and it doesn't wander.

[ajal87]

Just got checked today. I'm a little out of spec, but my steering is straight.

Anyone know how a warranty claim would be made since I bought from CarMax? I still have some of Mitsubishi's transferable warranty as I'm only at ~32,000 miles. Would I just talk to Mitsubishi directly or would I still try to get help from a dealer? Not sure how it works.

[Eggman]

Call Mitsubishi, I'd be curious to see how they handle this. I think the powertrain warranty is the only warranty that might be available on a used purchase, and I don't think the rear axle is included in that. But, call to find out.