Anybody else have volume issues with their Mirage DE?

[MightyMirageMpg]

So you also believe that formula for calculating watts?

Well... yea? Can you disprove it mathematically?

((Random example my block heater))

110 vac
36 ohmm

"His" formula, voltage squared , divide ohms

110 volts squared = 12,100
Divide by ohms. 36

Is..... 336 watts
====================

"Your formula"

110vac divided by 36 ohms = 3.05 amps

3.05 amps at 110vac = 336 watts.

====================


Fact of the matter, if you have a load... and you double that load... (4 vs 2ohm) there's another equal reaction. It's quite silly to argue that statement, especially when your both using the same stupid formula lol

I think you guys are getting hung up on such minor differences that you can't see the forest beside the tree

[Eggman]

Okay, I'll take your bait too.

Let's try this using something closer to an audio application instead of household voltages. Also, I won't spend time trying to make the bogus power equation work. I'll leave that to others.

A quick online search brought up this website: Basic Car Audio Electronics

The numbers used will be assumed direct current for simplicity. Keep in mind that reactive components affect alternating current in a different way and require more complicated forumulas.

Given the various losses of an electronic amplifier instead of using the nominal 13.8 vdc I'll simplify and use 12v instead.

Let's start using electrical values in the factory stock configuration.

The factory radio is rated for 140 watts across four speaker channels.

140W ÷ 4 = 35W/channel.

This is the wattage the factory radio is able to provide to each of the four speakers.

35W ÷ 12VDC = 2.916 amps.

We can round up to 3 amps for simplicity, but that can cause problems as that extends the rated peak capacity of the radio's amps.

Let's see how that fits with the stock speakers.

12VDC ÷ 4 ohms = 3 amps.

This suggests that the final stage amplifier driver circuitry is capable of delivering 3 amps, and as has been suggested earlier is likely held at that to minimize clipping, more commonly known as distortion in discussions on audio.


Now let's calculate what happens when the speaker's impedance (resistance) is cut in half.

12VDC ÷ 2 ohms = 6 amps.
12VDC x 6 amps = 72 watts.

Remember, that's 72 watts for a single channel - way beyond the peak rating. Unless the final amplifier stages are somehow protected against excessive current, those amplifiers would become overloaded and fail. Please let me know if my math is wrong.

Here is my concern - it is foolish to advise installing a speaker of a lower resistance on a public forum to someone who likely doesn't understand the basic concepts of audio, much less the difference between Ohm's law and power in watts, as it could lead to failure of the amps. If you want to do this on your own, fine - have at it. Just don't give out advice to others based on incorrect assumptions.

I'll stick to my original advice: Try a new set of speakers. Other forum members have reported good results without going through the expense and bother of installing another radio & amp. This, in my small opinion, is simply a start and within reach of someone who is just getting started. If that doesn't work then by all means get an amp, get another radio and have fun with it!


Like I said earlier, I get what namco is trying to say. However, I see some fault in the logic and wondered if namco realized it. In the end, it doesn't really matter that much to me but I would sure be sore if I got some bad advice from an online forum that wound up destroying my stuff.

[MightyMirageMpg]

I do not disagree with anything you just said.

But I do fail to see your point, unless your point is, "if you draw to much current you'll burn up electronic devices" in which case I would have to say, "duh"

But none of that changes that Namco simply was not incorrect. Otherwise you, and I, would be too.

[Eggman]

But none of that changes that Namco simply was not incorrect. Otherwise you, and I, would be too.

Except for understanding the difference between Ohm's law and watts.

[MightyMirageMpg]

Except for understanding the difference between Ohm's law and watts.

I'm sorry but I fail to understand your point, and even more so, the specific text you seem to take issue with.

[Eggman]

I'm sorry but I fail to understand your point, and even more so, the specific text you seem to take issue with.

And likewise, just because I haven't heard of an electrical formula doesn't mean it's not valid. I would like to know more about it.

[Littlestan]

Okay, I'll take your bait too.

Let's try this using something closer to an audio application instead of household voltages. Also, I won't spend time trying to make the bogus power equation work. I'll leave that to others.

A quick online search brought up this website: Basic Car Audio Electronics

The numbers used will be assumed direct current for simplicity. Keep in mind that reactive components affect alternating current in a different way and require more complicated forumulas.

Given the various losses of an electronic amplifier instead of using the nominal 13.8 vdc I'll simplify and use 12v instead.

Let's start using electrical values in the factory stock configuration.

The factory radio is rated for 140 watts across four speaker channels.

140W ÷ 4 = 35W/channel.

This is the wattage the factory radio is able to provide to each of the four speakers.

35W ÷ 12VDC = 2.916 amps.

We can round up to 3 amps for simplicity, but that can cause problems as that extends the rated peak capacity of the radio's amps.

Let's see how that fits with the stock speakers.

12VDC ÷ 4 ohms = 3 amps.

This suggests that the final stage amplifier driver circuitry is capable of delivering 3 amps, and as has been suggested earlier is likely held at that to minimize clipping, more commonly known as distortion in discussions on audio.


Now let's calculate what happens when the speaker's impedance (resistance) is cut in half.

12VDC ÷ 2 ohms = 6 amps.
12VDC x 6 amps = 72 watts.

Remember, that's 72 watts for a single channel - way beyond the peak rating. Unless the final amplifier stages are somehow protected against excessive current, those amplifiers would become overloaded and fail. Please let me know if my math is wrong.

Here is my concern - it is foolish to advise installing a speaker of a lower resistance on a public forum to someone who likely doesn't understand the basic concepts of audio, much less the difference between Ohm's law and power in watts, as it could lead to failure of the amps. If you want to do this on your own, fine - have at it. Just don't give out advice to others based on incorrect assumptions.

I'll stick to my original advice: Try a new set of speakers. Other forum members have reported good results without going through the expense and bother of installing another radio & amp. This, in my small opinion, is simply a start and within reach of someone who is just getting started. If that doesn't work then by all means get an amp, get another radio and have fun with it!


Like I said earlier, I get what namco is trying to say. However, I see some fault in the logic and wondered if namco realized it. In the end, it doesn't really matter that much to me but I would sure be sore if I got some bad advice from an online forum that wound up destroying my stuff.

Throwing my hat into the ring here... was an amplifier tuner from 15+ years ago in many different SPL competitions and vehicle setups.

Something to remember is that while your math is *technically* correct, this doesn't necessarily reflect real life usage. In order for you to use all 72 watts and 6 amps you'd have to be at max volume with a constant source signal playing allowing that much current to flow. What you are describing are PEAK wattage and amperage consumption. You will rarely encounter this, if ever, in normal playing conditions. The chances of you damaging the stock Mitsubishi head unit amplifier at such low wattage and amperage ratings under normal playing conditions, even at 2 ohms, would be next to impossible.

I will add that I swapped out the stock speakers with Pioneers like Lacey, and it made a marked improvement in volume and clarity, though a distinct loss in low end bass response due to the speaker cone no longer being sealed; the cone floats around the tweeter pod which sticks up through the middle of the cone which allows too much air to simply pass through with cone movement instead of compressing and delivering the same bass 'punch' as the solid cone stock speakers.

[Remy]

That's interesting. Is this happening to the radio only or does it happen with other inputs such as USB or CD?

I haven't tried anything other than the radio. I can try the usb feed from my phone maybe. I think I can play the radio app through the cord? I don't own music, neither on my PC or CDs. I just listen to the local oldies station.

[Spadesheart]

This got real complicated from the source of "Hey, my stereo is kinda quiet." hahaha

[Eggman]

I haven't tried anything other than the radio. I can try the usb feed from my phone maybe. I think I can play the radio app through the cord? I don't own music, neither on my PC or CDs. I just listen to the local oldies station.

Can you borrow someone's
1. USB memory with mp3s?
2. CD?
3. Bluetooth device (i.e. phone w/music)?
4. Music playing device with headphone output?

The basic stock radio has FM, AM, USB, Bluetooth, AUX (the headphone-jack-looking port) and CD. It can be helpful to know if the problem is affecting only one, two (radio inputs?) or all six sources.