I have a interesting project underway at present with the little 1.2, 3 cyl mirage, its a 2015 aussie spec ,map only,not afm , I bought a few mirages from damaged auction and basically have a left over 2015 mirage that I am going to turn into a Lemons race car(car has to be purchased and modified for under $1000 ,safety gear is allowed on top of purchase price.)The races are 6hrs in length so the car has to be reliable.
So I have a small 2nd hand ihi turbo, have made a steam pipe 3cyl manifold,am about to fabricate a dump pipe and side exit st through exhaust system.I am simply going to run a fifth injector set up for additional fuel as I only intend running 6-8psi boost, if needed I can run a bit of toluene in 98 octane fuel .
I have tried searching on this forum but the search feature always returns no answers.
Has anyone removed the cat from the exhaust system completely and what effect did this have on the running of the car,i.e. did it throw a check engine light or did it go into a limp home mode.
For the map sensor I will do a simple bleed off one way valve setup(i have used this method before)
The fifth injector controller has boost reference and rpm signal ref.
Once complete I am happy to share results , but for now the question is whether or not to retain a cat.
Last edited by MetroMPG; 03-23-2017 at 02:39 PM.
Reason: (copied/posted 1 image from later post)
Ran with no cats on my us spec car using a spark plug defouler on the secondary o2. . Got a check engine light as the defouler was not set up properly (clearance issues caused me to not be able to keep it far enough out of the exhaust stream). Vehicle did not go into limp home mode, just the code and some smelly gas. I probably put less than 100 miles on that set up though.
Note that running without the maf sensor did trigger limp home mode as I imagine it will on most cars.
The aussie spec 2015/6 cars do not have a afm at all ,only the map sensor next to the throttle body.
Havnt heard of using a defouler set up but I could easily incorporate a remote/tube mounted 02 bung in the far end of the dump pipe.
Well the first 6hr race is in three weeks time,hopefully I can get car sorted for then.
The factory ex manifold sheild will be fitted to the new turbo manifold so that should help.I will also fit a 3" scat pipe to try and cool the turbo/manifold a bit.
I have a oil cooler set up taken off a gti swift that I would never use on my race car but should be fine for duties on the lemon!!.
For the exhaust I used the factory flexy and front resonator off a 2015 turbo st fiesta that has been removed to make way for a larger system, the fit is great and ends with a short dump out the rh side sill before rear wheel.
There was plenty of room down the back of engine for the turbo and the turbo manifold was a very simple steam pipe bend manifold as can be seen in the pics, parts for the manifold plates and steam pipe coming to $50 aus, plus of course a fair bit of time.
The fifth injector boss was welded into a 180 bend that goes into the throttle body, you can just make it out in pics.
Map sensor is the next thing to tackle and I am thinking I will make up a short steel tube that bolts into the manifold where the map sensor normally goes, the tube will then have a restrictor hole approx 1mm before a take off with a one way valve and then a a tube for the original map sensor to go into, anything above about 2psi pressure gets blown out the one way valve anything below that is read by map sensor,Ive done this trick on a late model swift before and it worked fine.Unless someone knows how to electrically clamp the map sensor at its max reading before it brings check light on(normally 2-3psi), I know there are units (greddy)that can do this but there must be a cheap method of doing same!!.
The couple of breather hoses off the cam cover will go into a catch can with the other ends blanked off.
Air filter will be a pod filter sat down where the washer bottle normally goes with a scat tube feeding turbo.
Not sure if the std clutch is going to be up to task yet but as I am only running 6psi or so I will see
what happens on dyno.
Normally I run my front wheel drive turbo race cars with a welded up front diff and that's certainly a cheap option for this car too.
I went with the top mount intercooler mainly for ease of pipework , it doesnt have to look pretty on this car and bought a wrx hood scoop for $20 off a local wrecker which will do the job.
Because we are running the car for six hrs and each driver stint is 5o mins I am keeping the air con hooked up , In Queensland at the moment we are having a blistering hot summer and will be interesting to see if the std air con can perform .
As for the rest of car,I picked up a spares car with lowered heavy Kings springs and 15"x6" alloys so they will be fitted,looking to get approx 3 degrees of camber on front.If anyone has experience with stiffer rear sway bar/beam I would love to hear from you.
I will get more photos together as things progress.