How much did you pay for your Mirage?

[GeoStalker]

I recently paid $10,200 after tax, tags, and title at Ricart Automotive in Columbus, OH.

[flotownj]

Trim and options???

[GeoStalker]

Trim and options???

DE model....standard options. It came with a/c and Bluetooth. And it's a manual.

[Daewoorolet]

Re: How much did you pay for your Mirage?
I am considering getting a Mirage ES CVT, but can't stand the idea of a dealer rip-off. Frankly, I'm very frugal as well (as in cheap). The $3500 rebate seems great, but it does make you wonder about the mark-up on these cars.
After finding the best deals I could compare or match on the Internet all around the country, and presenting the info to my salesperson, my current almost agreed to price is $11,891 plus tax (about $980) and “fees”/license transfer (around $212). The car will include mud-flaps, rear bumper protector and wheel locks, because the other price matched one that I found online had these items as well. Does anyone out there know the actual price of this car or what the dealership paid for it? Or is that a fair question when you buy a car.
Total price as of now, approximately $13,037 (OTD). I haven't sealed the deal yet, but would like an honest answer or opinion. Do I have a great/fair price, or can I do better? I know the dealers got to make some money, but I just want the best deal possible.
Thanks.
P.S. Does the CVT really get more MPG's with careful non-aggressive driving as the sticker says? Or is the car actually capable of driving "aggressively”? My last car was a 5-speed, and I'm just getting tired of shifting.

[inuvik]

Re: How much did you pay for your Mirage?
I am considering getting a Mirage ES CVT, but can't stand the idea of a dealer rip-off. Frankly, I'm very frugal as well (as in cheap). The $3500 rebate seems great, but it does make you wonder about the mark-up on these cars.
After finding the best deals I could compare or match on the Internet all around the country, and presenting the info to my salesperson, my current almost agreed to price is $11,891 plus tax (about $980) and “fees”/license transfer (around $212). The car will include mud-flaps, rear bumper protector and wheel locks, because the other price matched one that I found online had these items as well. Does anyone out there know the actual price of this car or what the dealership paid for it? Or is that a fair question when you buy a car.
Total price as of now, approximately $13,037 (OTD). I haven't sealed the deal yet, but would like an honest answer or opinion. Do I have a great/fair price, or can I do better? I know the dealers got to make some money, but I just want the best deal possible.
Thanks.
P.S. Does the CVT really get more MPG's with careful non-aggressive driving as the sticker says? Or is the car actually capable of driving "aggressively”? My last car was a 5-speed, and I'm just getting tired of shifting.

Take a look at the fuel economy log and you'll find that the manual is delivering better mileage all around than the CVT. Depending on how you drive the CVT you can chug around keeping the rpm's to 2000 and under. Aggressive use of cruise control will keep the rpm's low. As far as price others that have bought since the $3500 rebate went into effect can better attest to the price they paid OTD.

[MetroMPG]

P.S. Does the CVT really get more MPG's with careful non-aggressive driving as the sticker says? Or is the car actually capable of driving "aggressively”? My last car was a 5-speed, and I'm just getting tired of shifting.

Try the 5-speed before you dismiss it. It's got the lightest, easiest to use clutch I've ever driven. Many members will agree with this.

And as inuvik points out, the manual can actually beat the CVT's mileage, despite the CVT's higher EPA ratings.

• See our Fuel Economy Log

[flotownj]

Just remember if you have to do a lot of highway driving the 5 speed turns very high RPM on the highway so its a bit loud. I seen a few people complain of that on here. Am I correct manual owners???

[HitShane]

Re: How much did you pay for your Mirage?
I am considering getting a Mirage ES CVT, but can't stand the idea of a dealer rip-off. Frankly, I'm very frugal as well (as in cheap). The $3500 rebate seems great, but it does make you wonder about the mark-up on these cars.
After finding the best deals I could compare or match on the Internet all around the country, and presenting the info to my salesperson, my current almost agreed to price is $11,891 plus tax (about $980) and “fees”/license transfer (around $212). The car will include mud-flaps, rear bumper protector and wheel locks, because the other price matched one that I found online had these items as well. Does anyone out there know the actual price of this car or what the dealership paid for it? Or is that a fair question when you buy a car.
Total price as of now, approximately $13,037 (OTD). I haven't sealed the deal yet, but would like an honest answer or opinion. Do I have a great/fair price, or can I do better? I know the dealers got to make some money, but I just want the best deal possible.
Thanks.
P.S. Does the CVT really get more MPG's with careful non-aggressive driving as the sticker says? Or is the car actually capable of driving "aggressively”? My last car was a 5-speed, and I'm just getting tired of shifting.

I bought this car knowing I would be doing a lot of start and stop (city) driving with it. I went with the CVT. As much as shifting would be a pain sometimes, I get VERY BAD gas mileage with the CVT in the City, with the AC on. I mean like very bad.

The CVT, *Down Shifts and hangs too fast and long leaving you winding out the engine and the car not going anywhere. This would be great if I was pulling a trailer uphill, but instead it's almost like when noobs ride their clutch or the clutch is slipping.

The car is designed for good fuel consumption and it rewards every attempt from you to make it faster, with a reiteration that it is meant to be economical. I almost think they did this to train you to drive it more sensible. They even put a delay into the accelerator for the CVT. Drive by wire allows (forces) you to program the sensitivity of the petal. They make it very touchy, but if you punch it, you will be rewarded with an extremely delayed reaction, followed by a complete upshift and 4-5k RPM engine response while it slowly gets up to speed, at this point slowly letting off the accelerator actually rewards you with a rubber band power band effect of acceleration as the CVT locks up and changes the gear ratio. I actually read in the manual that any input after 50% of the gas petal is ignored. From a rolling start or while passing the power is fine if not more than enough to overtake and change lanes. I would say to learn how to never make a complete stop. Time your maneuvers.

I would have bought the Manual if I had another chance for the quicker response time alone. I would take the money you saved and buy better (wider/stickier) tires and you might need wheels that are wide enough to properly mount them. Rear sway bar does wonders.

Wheels and tires $1k, Sway $200. End result, Priceless...

Try the 5-speed before you dismiss it. It's got the lightest, easiest to use clutch I've ever driven. Many members will agree with this.

And as inuvik points out, the manual can actually beat the CVT's mileage, despite the CVT's higher EPA ratings.

• See our Fuel Economy Log

My Suzuki Side Kick had an awesome Clutch. I taught my ex how to drive stick on that. You didn't even have to give it gas, just let off the clutch and off it went!

[Eggman]

Total price as of now, approximately $13,037 (OTD). I haven't sealed the deal yet, but would like an honest answer or opinion.

My opinion is that is a good price. You will be hard pressed to get any other car warrantied by the manufacturer for 100,000 miles at that price.

P.S. Does the CVT really get more MPG's with careful non-aggressive driving as the sticker says? Or is the car actually capable of driving "aggressively”? My last car was a 5-speed, and I'm just getting tired of shifting.

Yes to both questions. I have gone back to a 5-speed because it I was disappointed in the fuel economy of an automatic transmission. Driving home from the dealership I was approaching 50 mpg and the car is yet to break in.


Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of enthusiast owners here who have shared their insight in these cars, all willing to help each other make the most of their purchase. Browse around and you'll find a supportive community here for this little car.

Good luck in your search and let us know how you fare.

[fc321]

In reference to the manual making noise on the highway: Its not too bad at 70 mph. You get used to it after a day or 2.

THe car makes louder engine noise when you are at 3000rpm and higher than you are probably accustomed to from other cars.

But I find the noise helpful because I know when to upshift just by listening without having to read the rpm dial. I usually upshift at 3000 rpm

The car has a very pleasant engine sound. I really like it and I find it very calming and happy to hear. Its all part of the "ACTIVE" driving experience...you must DRIVE this car (contrasted to a normal automatic that you just steer brake and gas)

So if that sounds like fun to you then I recommend you this car. And dont think that you have to CONCENTRATE all the time to drive it. After a couple of weeks it will all be muscle memory and you will be driving it using the subcious mind (same as you drive an auto car).

I have owned the car 2 weeks and just to reiterate how much I love the manual transmission: I would have paid an EXTRA $1000 to have stickshift had I known how much fun the car is to drive.

And mind you I am almost 40 years old and have not had a stickshift since 12 years ago.

I give the stickshift my full and unequivocal recommendation.