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Thread: NST lightweight/underdrive pulleys.

  1. #41
    Senior Member Qrush's Avatar
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    I sent a message about the crankshaft pulley price. Though, individual pulleys are not currently considered part of the group buy.



  2. #42
    Where's the leak ma'am? Marklovski's Avatar
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    So is getting the pulley worth it for a daily driver. Any warranty issues?

    Quote Originally Posted by Loren View Post
    I roll my eyes at things like side skirts and carbon-fiber wrapped hoods. (You're adding weight to the car! It looks stupid!) But, I don't go into those threads and complain that I don't see the value in those things because it's just a cheap, basic, economy car.
    Wrapped my roof to protect it from any further damage. My fairing really ruined the paint.
    Fuel Log: Good enough
    Instagram: @zoras_sapphire

  3. #43
    Senior Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marklovski View Post
    So is getting the pulley worth it for a daily driver. Any warranty issues?
    I've managed to survive 208k miles with the stock pulley. To each his own I suppose.



    Here is a serious question. What is involved with changing the crankshaft pulley? Is it a difficult job to do?

  4. #44
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Changing the crankshaft pulley involves removing and replacing the accessory belt. (usually not at all difficult) Once the belt is off, the pulley is held in place with one bolt. The hard part (sometimes) is sufficiently holding the crankshaft to loosen or tighten the bolt.

    It's usually quick and easy. But, depending on how tight that bolt is, and what kind of access you have to get a torque wrench on it, it can be a pain.
    Simplify and add lightness.

  5. #45
    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren View Post
    Changing the crankshaft pulley involves removing and replacing the accessory belt. (usually not at all difficult) Once the belt is off, the pulley is held in place with one bolt. The hard part (sometimes) is sufficiently holding the crankshaft to loosen or tighten the bolt.

    It's usually quick and easy. But, depending on how tight that bolt is, and what kind of access you have to get a torque wrench on it, it can be a pain.
    An impact wrench can be helpful in removing. Installing would need to be done with a torque wrench. A manual transmission can be used to immobilize the engine for setting the proper installation torque.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)


  6. #46
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggman View Post
    An impact wrench can be helpful in removing. Installing would need to be done with a torque wrench. A manual transmission can be used to immobilize the engine for setting the proper installation torque.
    Yup. But, it's not always that easy. Just depends on how much torque the crank bolt requires.

    Always with the Miata stuff...

    The Miata (94-97) crank bolt torques to 120 ft/lbs, blue Loctite is highly recommended, and if it's not properly torqued, it WILL back out and munch your pulley, the woodruff key, and the keyway in the crankshaft! Experience with Miatas has let me to be pretty finicky with crankshaft pulley bolts. Getting 120 ft/lbs on the crankshaft is pretty difficult to do with just the car in gear relying on the drivetrain to hold it. (and that trick might be difficult or impossible on the Mirage where you might need to have the right front tire off to access the bolt!) They actually make a special tool for the Miata that bolts to the crank pulley boss (the pulley itself is bolted to the pulley boss with 4 bolts) so that you can properly torque the crank bolt.

    The design on the Mirage is different. Instead of a keyway with a key in it, it appears it may be located by a pin. I'd still be very particular about properly torquing that bolt, though.

    Looking at the Mirage manual, wow, it's interesting.

    They specify lubricating the bolt with engine oil, torquing it to a low spec, and then tightening it a further 1/6 turn. It's similar to the process used to torque some head bolts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Factory Manual
    PULLEY WASHER/CRANKSHAFT PULLEY CENTER
    BOLT INSTALLATION
    1. Using a rag, wipe dirt on the crankshaft thread hole and the
    crankshaft pulley washer.
    2. Using a rag, wipe dirt on the crankshaft pulley and then
    degrease the place specified in the illustration.
    NOTE: Perform degreasing to prevent the friction resistance
    from decreasing in the compressed area due to the residual
    oil.
    3. Install the crankshaft pulley.
    4. Apply the minimum amount of engine oil to the crankshaft
    bolt threads and the seating surface.
    5. Use the following special tools as during removal to support
    the crankshaft pulley.
     Front hub and flange yoke holder (MB990767)
     Pin (MD998719)
    6. Tighten the crankshaft pulley center bolt to the specified
    torque.
    Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ft-lb)
    7. As shown in figure A, put a paint mark on one angle of the
    crankshaft pulley center bolt. Then, put a paint mark on the
    crankshaft pulley on the extended line of the angle next to
    the marked angle.
    CAUTION
     When the tightening angle is smaller than the specified
    tightening angle, the appropriate tightening capacity
    cannot be secured.
     When the tightening angle is larger than the specified
    tightening angle, remove the bolt to start from the
    beginning again according to the procedure.
    8. Tighten the crankshaft pulley center bolt in a 60, and check
    that the paint mark on the crankshaft pulley center bolt
    aligns with the paint mark on the crankshaft pulley as shown
    in figure B.
    AK901203
    Crankshaft
    Crankshaft
    pulley
    Crankshaft
    pulley center bolt
    Crankshaft
    pulley washer
    : Wipe clean with a rag.
    : Wipe clean with a rag and degrease.
    : Wipe clean with a rag, degrease and
    apply a small amount of engine oil.
    Engine front AB
    ACC04376AB
    MD998719
    MB990767
    AK901204
    Figure A Figure B Paint
    markings
    Crankshaft
    pulley center bolt
    60˚
    AB
    CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
    TSB Revision
    ENGINE MECHANICAL 11A-21
    9. Loosen the crankshaft pulley center bolt completely after
    steps 6 to 8, and then repeat steps 6 to 8.
    Simplify and add lightness.

  7. #47
    Senior Member Qrush's Avatar
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    Heres the latest from NST regarding individual crankshaft pricing:
    "As stated before, we would need 10+ members before we can start offering variations, discounts, etc."

    Single 3pc kit: $388.00
    10+ 3pc kit: $248.00

    Single Crank Pulley Only: $248.00
    10+ Crank Pulley Only: $148.00

    "There doesn't seem to be very much real interest/support from the community at this point based on the thread we've been watching. Are you still the only member with real interest at this point?"

    Pretty bummed all those interested, really weren't interested or weren't ready. Im gonna wait couple more days...then pull the trigger. Interested in the group buy? Page is here:
    https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...ot-Buy-In-quot

  8. #48
    Still Plays With Cars Loren's Avatar
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    Patience, grasshopper.

    You posted your thread before you had all of the info out there. And it was only yesterday. Friday. Weekend. Give it some time.
    Simplify and add lightness.

  9. #49
    Senior Member Qrush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loren View Post
    Patience, grasshopper.
    Im gonna try...

  10. #50
    Senior Member Qrush's Avatar
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    Quick off-topic question, anyone know the true WHP of our platform? I think I remember reading 60 WHP? I used this app here and it said 57 WHP: https://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php

    Doing data logging as part of an evaluation. Want to make sure I have my baseline numbers right. Using VirtualDyno and I believe it measures in WHP, not BHP.



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