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Thread: No brake lights, abs , traction control warnings, won't shift out of park. (Solved)

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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    No brake lights, abs , traction control warnings, won't shift out of park. (Solved)

    I just got a car(2017 cvt with 178k kms) in with the driver complaining about not being able to shift from park without using the shift lock bypass. I get the car and the abs and traction control lights are lit up in the cluster and the brake lights aren't working.
    I've seen some of these problems alot with the exception of the shifter being stuck. I assumed(like a dumb az) it was going to be the connector in the kick panel that seems to corrode but so far that's not looking like the case. It looks fine. So on to the brake switch. That's where I'm at now. It looks like the brake light switch plunger isn't popping out very far at all when the pedal is pushed. Maybe an 1/8". I'll compare it with a spare used one and see how that goes.
    Edit: Brake switch is screwed, the spring is probably broke or out of place. And 15 uses a different switch than 17':/


    Last edited by Fummins; 06-05-2019 at 03:10 PM.
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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Name:  CC96CA52-4667-4018-A885-F25F5DC1CCDC.jpg
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Size:  89.8 KBName:  7E7E2C42-5D3C-4066-913C-95B6EFECA5F1.jpg
Views: 69
Size:  94.9 KBI should have just made this one post rather than 3 or 4 on 2 threads. The problem was the brake light switch. The orange and brown ones are 17' other one from a 15'. The junk one is in the middle with the plunger retracted. Replaced it with a low mileage used one from another 17' and works again. Didn't need to clear any of the codes. All the warning lights went out instantly after the first start up.

    Easy fix. I'm sure there's a write up about how to change the switch already, but for those who are lazy: Look under the dash on the drivers side, remove the 3 plastic screw clip things that hold the flimsy shiny plastic cover to the underside of dash. Follow your brake pedal up til you see the switch, unplug it by pushing in on the clip and pulling the plug away, turn switch about 1/4 turn counter clockwise and it'll slide right out. Replace is reverse of install. To adjust switch, set it so the plunger is contacting the brake pedal so the lights stay out with the pedal not pressed. There's a happy medium. Don't want it adjusted too much one way or the other so the brake lights come on going over bumps or not come on unless you push the pedal all the way. Figure it out it's not hard. Or look up the specs in the service manual if you're that kinda person.

    Weird, none of our cars have cruise but have the wiring in the wheel and what looks like the proper brake switch already.
    Last edited by Fummins; 06-05-2019 at 03:36 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Brake switch is screwed...And 15 uses a different switch than 17':/
    Good to know.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 51.5 mpg (US) ... 21.9 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Another excellent find.

    Looks like that switch can be disassembled?
    Last edited by Eggman; 06-05-2019 at 04:02 PM.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.9 mpg (US) ... 21.2 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    I caught that before you edited it so here go. Don't forget about wearing your safety gear Name:  Turban-rights-Avtar-Dhillon.jpg
Views: 66
Size:  23.6 KB.

    The switch came apart, nothing broken. It was worn and sticky. Cleaned it up and will try it out next time I have a problem.
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    So, hitting it with contact cleaner should take care of the problem then, right?

    I would try some WD-40.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.9 mpg (US) ... 21.2 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Yesh Shir
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    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    Name:  CC96CA52-4667-4018-A885-F25F5DC1CCDC.jpg
Views: 67
Size:  89.8 KBName:  7E7E2C42-5D3C-4066-913C-95B6EFECA5F1.jpg
Views: 69
Size:  94.9 KBI should have just made this one post rather than 3 or 4 on 2 threads. The problem was the brake light switch. The orange and brown ones are 17' other one from a 15'. The junk one is in the middle with the plunger retracted. Replaced it with a low mileage used one from another 17' and works again. Didn't need to clear any of the codes. All the warning lights went out instantly after the first start up.

    Easy fix. I'm sure there's a write up about how to change the switch already, but for those who are lazy: Look under the dash on the drivers side, remove the 3 plastic screw clip things that hold the flimsy shiny plastic cover to the underside of dash. Follow your brake pedal up til you see the switch, unplug it by pushing in on the clip and pulling the plug away, turn switch about 1/4 turn counter clockwise and it'll slide right out. Replace is reverse of install. To adjust switch, set it so the plunger is contacting the brake pedal so the lights stay out with the pedal not pressed. There's a happy medium. Don't want it adjusted too much one way or the other so the brake lights come on going over bumps or not come on unless you push the pedal all the way. Figure it out it's not hard. Or look up the specs in the service manual if you're that kinda person.

    Weird, none of our cars have cruise but have the wiring in the wheel and what looks like the proper brake switch already.
    Jesus, just how many different parts, components, etc are different between a 2014, 2015 to 2017? What ever happened to continuity? I dont think 5 freaking model years of matching parts is too much to ask of Mitsubishi. And if you drive a 2014 model like me your really screwed trying to find parts. Apparently theres two different CVTs that go into the 2014 model? Unbelievable.



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