Endorsement for Aamco CVT service

[Dirk Diggler]

3rd world car, 3rd world service lol.

If you paid for the cable by visa call visa up and say you paid for something that ended up being a scam? Or just go coughing on people til you get a refund.

If I dont hear from them by noon I'm going in there and getting a refund and calling my trusted private mechanic. This is bullcrap, I mean it's a battery cable. Not exactly the holy grail of parts.

[Top_Fuel]

Don't freak out Dirk. It's barely been 3 business days since they ordered that part. It may be coming from a warehouse on the west coast or something.

[Dirk Diggler]

Don't freak out Dirk. It's barely been 3 business days since they ordered that part. It may be coming from a warehouse on the west coast or something.

They said they have a warehouse in Atlanta lol. It's not so much the waiting as their attitude. Their customer service skills are pathetic. Night and day difference from my experience with Subaru. You get what you pay for it seems with Mitsubishi. Here's my question, the battery light hasn't come on once since last Wednesday. Do I even need this cable? If and when I get it I'm also going to throw in a fresh battery.

[Top_Fuel]

the battery light hasn't come on once since last Wednesday. Do I even need this cable?

There's a pretty good chance you don't need a new cable. Cleaning your battery terminals may fix this problem. If you can cancel the order for the part and get a refund, I would go ahead and do it and keep the $300 in your pocket.

Why would you buy a new battery? Is your current battery old? If it's not old and it can pass a load test, don't throw money out the window on a new battery.

If you decide to go back to a Subaru, just don't buy one with a CVT. Subaru has as many CVT problems as Nissan.

[Dirk Diggler]

There's a pretty good chance you don't need a new cable. Cleaning your battery terminals may fix this problem. If you can cancel the order for the part and get a refund, I would go ahead and do it and keep the $300 in your pocket.

Why would you buy a new battery? Is your current battery old? If it's not old and it can pass a load test, don't throw money out the window on a new battery.

If you decide to go back to a Subaru, just don't buy one with a CVT. Subaru has as many CVT problems as Nissan.

Great advice as always Top! No I love love love our Mitsus I just hate the dealerships lol. Subarus are too pricey now and the last one I had was a 2004 H6 by with traditional auto. Great car, but I avg 19 mpg and it got expensive with the upkeep.

[poorman1]

Call them and cancel, Get a full refund.
Refuse any "restocking" fees or other bs

[Dirk Diggler]

Update, Mitsu cant get my part till June! Battery light has not come back on in 10 days. I called my trusted mechanic and he said it could of just been a temporary spike and the dealership is probably just trying to get business. I'm going back to the dealership today to get a refund and taking it too my private mech to see if he can splice it, although he's not sure if he can since it's a 3 prong wire, he's not even sure if he evens needs to do anything. Thank God there are honest mechanics out there.

[Top_Fuel]

Getting a refund sounds like a great idea. Remember...you may not need to replace anything in this case. If I were you, I would spend a couple of minutes to disconnect and clean your battery terminal connections...then see if that light ever comes back on.

Your own guy can spend 3 minutes doing a voltage drop test on your battery/alternator connections and cables. This simple test will tell you if you have good, clean connections and that the cables aren't corroded and providing excessive resistance to current flow. This is a simple test that every technician learns in Automotive Electrical 101.

Whatever you do, do not just install new parts when you think it might fix a problem. Parts are too expensive and you may just end up throwing money out the window. That's how AutoZone stays in business!

[Top_Fuel]

This diagnosis could be perfectly legit...



But their fix is a little suspect. If the negative battery terminal is "severely corroded" then just clean it up, reconnect it, and see if the problem goes away. Maybe even take 2 seconds to measure the negative cable's resistance with a digital multi-meter. All of this would take about 5 minutes and would answer your ultimate question: Do I really need a $300 repair to fix the problem?

On a slightly different subject...

I won't even go into why the dealer made you pre-pay for a part. That seems like a very cheesy practice unless it's some sort of high-dollar, unusual, non-restockable part. But making a customer pre-pay for a frigging battery cable?!?

[Dirk Diggler]

Well lo and behold went back in there with my receipt and it turns out.......the part miraculously just came in! This is after the other service manager said it wouldn't be in till June. I'll take it in to finish the job tomorrow morning just to be done with it. My lady doesn't care to get my guy's diagnosis and wait a few more days. Crazy I know, but it's her $ and she trusts dealerships (Ford did some warranty work on her old Mustang, quick and free).