suspension shot @35000 miles

[Fummins]

mine just went at 60k. got the parts but cant get the bolts off they are tac welded on or something.

What bolts? I had to cut a bolt off of one Mirage when replacing the rear shocks. The lower bolt seized to the shock bushing. It was a mess. The welded nut on the trailing axle broke off too. Ended up replacing with a nut and bolt. No bolts are tack welded on these car.

[7milesout]

A battery going dead ... probably for an extended period of time, while you were on your brain sabbatical, could have reduced it's life span. Or the battery could have sat for some time before use. To me the battery is no big deal.

As for the suspension, a lot of it could be in a person's expectations. I used to design seats for Toyota. There was this horse's ass guy who worked in the evaluation department. He would drive a car and come back and swear a wire member in the frame were 2 mm too close to the surface. And make all these weird discomfort claims about the seat. It was ridiculous. I always figured he was just trying to make a spectacle just to be noticed.

What your explanation makes me wonder that if maybe for the "minor model change" of the 2017 model, maybe Mitsubishi did some suspension revisions ... and didn't quite hit the mark at least as far as longevity. Maybe the 2017 and newer models may all have some level of premature suspension issues.

[Fummins]

We have 2015, 2017 and 2019's at work. They don't seem to wear differently.

[skyblue]

As for the suspension, a lot of it could be in a person's expectations. I used to design seats for Toyota. There was this horse's ass guy who worked in the evaluation department. He would drive a car and come back and swear a wire member in the frame were 2 mm too close to the surface. And make all these weird discomfort claims about the seat. It was ridiculous. I always figured he was just trying to make a spectacle just to be noticed.

The WORST seat I've ever encountered was in a 2009-on Suzuki Alto, I felt like it was designed to make you hunchback, although most seats now are to a lesser extent and I believe it's because of accident requirements. It also had the worst suspension, absolutely rock hard, extremely thrifty on fuel though. Plus none of the steering wheels are close enough anymore (I suspect again because of safety airbags) and its nigh impossible to fix legally, there's a mob that sells steering extensions that you can switch from car to car but they cost 3 grand and are technically for the disabled.

[Mark]

. What your explanation makes me wonder that if maybe for the "minor model change" of the 2017 model, maybe Mitsubishi did some suspension revisions ... and didn't quite hit the mark at least as far as longevity. Maybe the 2017 and newer models may all have some level of premature suspension issues.

My 2017 Mirage just turned over 50,000 miles yesterday. I don't think the suspension is any different than day one, & I don't expect it to be any different @ 100,000 miles. I have zero concerns about it.

I never feel uncomfortable driving my Mirage. I did a 4 hour trip yesterday. Both rear windows down about 2" and driver's window down the entire trip. That's typical summer mode driving for me.

I think nothing of sitting on a flat board 20+ feet up in a tree for 4 hours while bowhunting. Compared to my back up against a tree for 4 hours, my Mirage feels like a comfy chair!

[7milesout]

Both rear windows down about 2" and driver's window down the entire trip. That's typical summer mode driving for me.

You're doing it all wrong! I kid. Do it how you please. But try this: Fully drop both left side windows and put both right sides all the way up (closed). This stops the buffeting in your left ear, but you still get lots of wind stirring about. It's quieter but with lots of air flow. I do this, but when it is extra warm and I'm slowing near a stop, I'll drop the right front to get a cross-breeze through the cabin. Then as I pick speed back up there's too much breeze and noise, so I put the right front back up. It is oh so nice.

I learned this because in my youth, I owned a 1988 Chevy Suburban Scottsdale 4x4. It was a nice truck. Plain Jane, nothing fancy. It had manual windows. I got in it one time started driving and the left rear window was down. It was the only one, and it was driving me nuts, I couldn't reach it while driving. For whatever reason I rolled the left front down and it was as if the gates to heaven opened. The breeze was nice and quiet. And have been doing it that way ever since.

[Azariah747]

What bolts? I had to cut a bolt off of one Mirage when replacing the rear shocks. The lower bolt seized to the shock bushing. It was a mess. The welded nut on the trailing axle broke off too. Ended up replacing with a nut and bolt. No bolts are tack welded on these car.

ill take a picture when i get my car back. the auto shop where i took it messed up the job. shocks blasted through into my trunk. they weren't tightened back down properly and stripped the bolts. but when i went to change them myself there were the bottom bolts on the shock absorber and the other side where the threads are its just tack welded in place. it was just like a square bolt with threads in it. i couldn't get them off myself. it was like the weld held the bolt in place. i was looking my 2018 is different then the earlier models. they make them even cheaper now. the original ones were built best.

[Fummins]

That's odd. Maybe they changed things for 2018?

The way the shocks mount on our 2019's look exactly the same as my 2014's as well as the 2015's and 2017's at work. Other than the abs wires being routed differently on the 2014.
That welded square thing is a nut. That won't turn. It isn't supposed to turn. You turn the bolt and the nut stays there.

I'd like to see how shocks blasted into your trunk. The only time I've seen that was when a car was rusted out. The upper part of the shock is just a stud that is clamped to the hole in the body with some rubber bushings, washers and a nut. Even if that was loose you'd notice it clunking instantly.

If the oil light comes on it's too late.

[Top_Fuel]

That welded square thing is a nut. That won't turn. It isn't supposed to turn. You turn the bolt and the nut stays there.

Adding a pic to help(?)...

Here's a typical top shock mount...

Red arrow: You have to hold this squared-off part still with a special tool...or something like vice grips.
Yellow arrow: Turn this nut to remove the shock.

[Fummins]

Attachment 21255 I assume by square welded bolt he meant square welded nut on the lower shock bolt. There's a lot going there...