Exhaust Ideas ... again.

[inuvik]

Those daggone Porter Mufflers look to be, simply a glasspack. A perfed tube inside a mo' bigguh tube, with fiberglass packed in between the 2 tubes. Hence the name, glasspack. Those look Ed Zachery the same as what I'm going to source for my "trial."

I'm not expert, maybe I'm wrong. Is there a "section" view available of those Porter Mufflers? As for the durability of the Thrush I currently plan to procure (I could change my mind), I'm going to guess that heat plays a big role in the durability. For the fact that our 3-Tappers just don't make as much heat as other engines, and the fact I'm going to eliminate a catalyst, the heat should be lower. The Thrush should last.

In any event, my gut tells me this whole thing is going to lead to an exhaust that is too loud. If so, I'm probably going to go down the path of a standard Borla ProXS muffler. If that doesn't do what I need, I'm going to put the stock exhaust back on, throw the experimental exhaust out on the interstate, declare it impossible to have a nice sound with our 3-Tapper and call it a day.

The ProXS is a standard size muffler. I took the stock enormous muffler off my Paw's Sierra, and the ProXS (still on there) sounds great. I suppose the ProXS would be louder than our stock muffler on the Mirage, but quieter than a glasspack. Stupid exhaust, this should be easier. Friggin Triumph triples sound great, why is our triple such a challenge?

[Fummins]

As far as the bolts go, I went through my old box oh exhaust bolts and found bolts that I'm sure are from Mirages but they're 2 different lengths.

[Basic]

Porters are the absolute BUSINESS. Definitely what is going on my Big Block Mopar, and what I also thought about for this car except its too expensive and too damn heavy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UD1YW9a2jzU

[7milesout]

Inuvik - THANKS FOR THAT PICTURE! So I will agree with you, it ain't no glasspack! It's a stainless steel pack!

And instead of a perfed tube inside, they used that coil. I think the exhaust pulses should push past the coil easier than pushing through perfed holes. So, it should be quieter. The density of that stainless must be what helps with the drone.

If I get to a point where I'm looking for a permanent solution, the Porter exhaust might get my call up from the minor leagues of big block mopar duty, all the way up to Mirage duty! I'm going to go back to their site again and check out their sizes.

PS - I do like the Porter Muffler's blue!

After looking back, I see the Porter muffler I would choose, is near the same cost as a Borla ProXS. I'm down with experimenting, but the daggone budget. For right now I'm going to go with the cheapie thrush, since this is an experiment. If it is too loud (I suspect it might be), the Porter would be my 2nd choice.

[Eggman]

Doesn’t the fiberglass eventually burn out of glass packs? I can’t remember where I heard that from but it’s the reason why glasspack mufflers sound louder over time.

The stainless fill of the Porters should fix that problem.

[7milesout]

Doesn’t the fiberglass eventually burn out of glass packs? I can’t remember where I heard that from but it’s the reason why glasspack mufflers sound louder over time.

The stainless fill of the Porters should fix that problem.

Evidently, that is exactly one of the advertised advantages of Porter mufflers. Garsh, this is the first I ever heard of Porter mufflers. Good ole Porter...

[7milesout]

So, I've come to the conclusion, that for the bolts and springs, I'm just going to use the bolts and springs off my car. That way, they won't get lost. But I need a flange. Procure the glasspack is easy and cheap. But the flange ... I guess I'm going to have to crawl my big ass up under the car and do some measuring.

[Fummins]

So, I've come to the conclusion, that for the bolts and springs, I'm just going to use the bolts and springs off my car. That way, they won't get lost. But I need a flange. Procure the glasspack is easy and cheap. But the flange ... I guess I'm going to have to crawl my big ass up under the car and do some measuring.

Just flip it on it's side.

[7milesout]

My floor jack is a POS. I jacked it up as far as it would go, threw a stand under it just in case the POS let go. And still couldn't crawl under there effectively. The best I can tell is it appeared that the bolt hole looked to be right at 1/2" from the center exhaust pipe hole.

The O.D. of the exhaust being ~1.50 inches. Add two 1/2 inches to that, making the bolt holes roughly 2.5 inches apart. Fummins, if you got a chance (no rush) could you confirm that? I won't hold your feet to a fire if you're not exact to the thousandth.

I'm going to have to just procure a flange that is flat. And a gasket. My exhaust guy should be able to deal with that. Best I can tell, the engine side flange has weld nuts on it, and the tailpipe side has the bolts with springs.

Actually Fummins, might you be able to confirm something else for me? Does the bolt (with spring around it) have a step / shoulder on it? It looks to me like it MUST have a shoulder on it in order to drive the flanges in contact with each other before the springs fully collapse on themselves. If it has a step / shoulder, those same bolts and springs should work with a flat flange.

Now that I think about it, it is important to use the same bolts because, if there are weld nuts on the engine side flange, I want those to remain with no modification ... so that my original exhaust can go back on easily if need be.

Fummins - I hate to ask you for these things ... you're noone's minion. But I don't know who else has ready access than you. And I can't seem to get my big ass up under my car to find out. I REALLY need a lift. Let me summarize, like the nerd that I am.

Would you:

• Confirm the exhaust flange bolt hole spacing appears to be 2.50 inches apart?
• Confirm that the engine side exhaust flange has weld nuts?
• Confirm if the exhaust flange bolts have steps / shoulders on them?

Before I Submitted the above, I decided to not be such a baby and see if I could find some info on my own.

Bolt: See picture below. It appears that bolt does have a shoulder on it. So yeah, flat flange or not, it seems that bolt and spring combo should work.

Weld Nut: See picture below. It appears that the 2020 exhaust manifold DOES have weldnuts on it. Why? Because if it did not, the nuts would be listed out on the picture below as separate items. But since there are not fasteners listed, fasteners must be part of the assembly (welded on). I guess I could spend $1,200+ and find out!

Bolt spacing: I don't know any way to confirm this, on my own.



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[Fummins]

I have an old 17' cat laying around here somewhere and some complete exhausts but I don't know if they're 15 or 17. I'll try to get some measurements later if I remember. The step on the exhaust bolts bottoms out the threads, the springs provide constant tension and aren't compressed fully when tight. I'm a chitty explainer, will try to get some pics or maybe a vijeo? I can't remember if I posted this or not but I found 2 different length exhaust bolts in my bucket oh' mirage bolts. Not sure which whitch is which. The bolts look like the one in the pic above