Probably another dead cvt

[Dirk Diggler]

Nooooooooooooooooo! *cough cough Noooooooooooo!

[Cobrajet]

The wires for my variable valve timing solenoid broke off flush with the connector. Looks like wiring gremlins are going to be a theme for these cars.

[skyblue]

Looks like improper grounding lol

[Dirk Diggler]

You got over 200k hard motherf#cking miles out of that 2015. That's damn fine in my opinion. Please tell me this was one with its original CVT?

[Fummins]

You got over 200k hard motherf#cking miles out of that 2015. That's damn fine in my opinion. Please tell me this was one with its original CVT?

False alarm read post 3

[Dirk Diggler]

False alarm read post 3

Ahh I got ahead of myself and forgot the update, sorry brother. Tell me though, is this 2015 on its original cvt? It'd be cool to hear another 14-15 1st gen is soldiering on with decent reliabilty.

[Fummins]

Ahh I got ahead of myself and forgot the update, sorry brother. Tell me though, is this 2015 on its original cvt? It'd be cool to hear another 14-15 1st gen is soldiering on with decent reliabilty.

Yes it the original it's at 320xxxkms. We have a 2017 with 330,000kms(205k miles) Highest mileage original cvt in the fleet is a 15' that's a blonde one away from hitting 400,000kms(248xxxmiles).
My black car I bought from Tyrel is still going at 287500km. It has been surging more than usual lately. I haven't checked the fluid level since I bought it.

[thx1138guy]

Sounds like the unfortunate long term issue for these cars will be the dental floss they used for wiring...

Just experienced a similar issue with the air conditioning in my 2014 Nissan Altima. One of the wires on the refrigerant pressure sensor harness plug broke off with only the wiring insulation hanging on making it appear that the wire was still connected. Nissan used 24 AWG for the sensor wiring and did not provide any slack hence the reason that the wire broke - grrrrrrrrrrr.

i needed to replace the harness plug as the wire broke at the base of the plug. Took me a while to diagnose what was wrong so didn't have AC for two weeks in mid May. Not too bad in SE Michigan but I'm happy that I repaired in on May 31. Total repair cost was $22.

[Fummins]

Might as well change the title of this thread to "assuming makes an ass out of.....

I'll blame the brain cells I killed with beer this past weekend and the heat.

I opened up the engine wiring harness where I had a map sensor code on a different car. Wires looked fine. Tried to start it again, nothing. Scanned it again and this time had 3 codes instead of two.
Had the p0300 Missfire code, P0068 for the map/afs and now got a p0335 for the crank sensor. I noticed the tach didn't move while cranking it over. Odd. I didn't pull the spark plugs yet. It didn't try to fire at all.

I cut open the wiring harness along the top of the intake along the usual zip tied too tight spots. Found one wire with the insulation starting to wear away nearest the alternator but it didn't appear to have any broken strands.

I went back towards the drivers(lh) side of the harness and finally found a wire that was completely broken apart, only the insulation was hanging on by a thread. I stuck a hacky jumper wire in there and the car fired right up instantly.
Will post pics later if I have time. Figured I'd update this before Dirk saw it lol.

I have another 2015 that's throwing a P0335(crank angle sensor) code along with a P0791(secondary speed sensor-cvt) and a C1396 (Torque refusal)... Car got pushed to me after dying and not starting. Of course it fired right back up then stalled when the ac compressor kicked in just like the car in this thread that I just found. So far I did a wiggle test all over the engine harness, trying to make the engine stall with no luck. I drained the cvt fluid and it looked pretty good still(it was due anyways). So now I'll start tearing open the wiring harness and look for broken wires under the hood. The kick panel connector has already been relocated up high and dry.
I did get this car to die and not restart. When cranking the tach wouldn't move and it acted like it was flooded. Then out of the blue it just started right up like nothing was ever wrong. I'm thinking wiring. Hoping anyways! Car has around 374k km/232k miles.

[Fummins]

So the harness looks fine from what I can see of the crank sensor up to the alternator. I cut open the harness where it's zip tied to the brackets along the top front edge of the engine. The first two zip tied spots looked great, the one around the corner(drivers side) of the harness looked good too until I flipped it over and found one light blue wire almost worn through completely. I haven't looked a schematic but that same wire does go to either the crank sensor or the ac compressor. So...here's hoping that fixing that wire(cutting out the piece where it's worn and corroded and solder a new piece in place) works. These old threads come in handy! I'm gonna clean up the ground on the passenger side of the head as well cause it's not looking very good either.