Originally Posted by
Loren
Race car kill switch. Very different from a "hypermiler" kill switch.
That switch is designed to separate the engine from all sources of power (battery and alternator) and stop the engine in the event of a crash or fire. To accomplish that, it has to be capable of carrying ALL of the current that the alternator and battery can generate. Hence it's 300 Amp rating!
What we're talking about is a much lower rated switch to interrupt a very low amp (milliamp) ECU input signal. It needs to be reliable, yes. But, it doesn't need to be beefy. All it has to do is carry that small signal 99% of the time, and interrupt it when the driver wants the engine to stop.
Ahh, I've only used the master kill switches.
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