Originally Posted by
Steveystrappa
Pulled pan and both magnets were full and was like a clay colored layer on bottom of pan. No big chunks. Fluid was really dark though. Went through sequence flow chart from that Mitsubishi manuel Fummins posted and it has a diagnostic procedure for every code and I went through them and from what it says it's most likely a valve body but I'm concerned about that thin layer on pan. I cleaned the pan up and refilled. Erased codes and went for long drive again. Coded didn't reappear. And according to the flow chart it is saying valve body or primary solenoid. What's the cvt name in this car? Also any ideas. Don't wanna waste money on valve body if it there is a bearing pule up or something. Also had anyone used a aftermarket valve body instead of genuine as the price difference is substantial. I believe 1300 for genuine.
Thanks guys
Wow, you could buy a used trans for that much. Although a used trans would cost more in labor. I always try to find the best "price to quality ratio" when fixing my car. I first start at a salvage yards, they usually write on the window what was wrong with the car and why its been totaled. If you get there early enough when the car arrives and the trans is good, I would just take the valve body from that. Lots of variables with that method of doing it but it can save you thousands and that's where I always start.
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View my fuel log 2017 Mirage SE 1.2 automatic: 47.9 mpg (US) ... 20.4 km/L ... 4.9 L/100 km ... 57.5 mpg (Imp)